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Thread: Valve gas test

  1. #1
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    Valve gas test

    Hey guys, In the process of installing my Ferrea valves. Ive lapped all the valves and put all the valves and springs back on number 1, which had the worst sealing exhaust valves.
    I put some liquid in the ports to see how well they were sealing. All the valves were passing a very small amount of liquid over a period of time.
    I am pretty sure I know the answer to this, but im assuming there should be no passing at all right?

    Cheers


  2. #2
    My understanding was that to be done "properly" the head needed to have the valves cut in, not just lapped?

  3. #3
    MSRXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gazzaed View Post
    My understanding was that to be done "properly" the head needed to have the valves cut in, not just lapped?
    That's correct. To do it 'correctly' you need to do a 3 angle valve job to properly 'seat' the valves into the head to maximize sealing. I was told this information by a respectable engine builder. The 3 angle cut is not a must, but helps seat the valves properly to avoid leak-down. You are already there, what's a few more $'s. Better than pulling the head back off IMO! Then you will need new head bolts, and gasket. That shipping and parts gets old and expensive QUICK!

    Good Luck!

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    Sayers's Avatar
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    Did you lap them in properly?
    What paste did you use?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by monaroman76 View Post
    Hey guys, In the process of installing my Ferrea valves. Ive lapped all the valves and put all the valves and springs back on number 1, which had the worst sealing exhaust valves.
    I put some liquid in the ports to see how well they were sealing. All the valves were passing a very small amount of liquid over a period of time.
    I am pretty sure I know the answer to this, but im assuming there should be no passing at all right?

    Cheers
    Slightly off topic but what tool are you using to compress the valve springs? The riva tool seems to be excessively expensive here in Australia..

  6. #6
    Sayers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gazzaed View Post
    Slightly off topic but what tool are you using to compress the valve springs? The riva tool seems to be excessively expensive here in Australia..
    Worth the extra $.

    Where are you located?

  7. #7
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSRXP View Post
    That's correct. To do it 'correctly' you need to do a 3 angle valve job to properly 'seat' the valves into the head to maximize sealing. I was told this information by a respectable engine builder. The 3 angle cut is not a must, but helps seat the valves properly to avoid leak-down. You are already there, what's a few more $'s. Better than pulling the head back off IMO! Then you will need new head bolts, and gasket. That shipping and parts gets old and expensive QUICK!

    Good Luck!
    Hey MSRXP, I am aware that ideally I should have the seats cut, but there is no one locally that can do the job. There is one guy, but I am not real confident in his abilities. I could send it somewhere, but then postage both ways and having the seats cut would certainly add up.
    When I asked Jerry he said I will be fine to just lap them in.

    I removed the valves and persisted a little more with the finer lapping compound (I think I underdone it the first time) and I ended up getting them all to seal well and not pass any liquid, so I think I am going to leave it at that.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sayers View Post
    Did you lap them in properly?
    What paste did you use?
    I think so. It seems like something that you cant really go all that wrong with.
    I forget the brand I used, but it was the only stuff that Repco sold. It comes in a small 2 in 1 bottle. Half coarse paste and half fine paste.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gazzaed View Post
    Slightly off topic but what tool are you using to compress the valve springs? The riva tool seems to be excessively expensive here in Australia..
    I bought the Riva tool from the GH store. If I had of known I was taking my head off to do the job, I probably wouldnt have got it.

    It is a really good tool though. Makes the job very easy.

    If you needed to lend it at all in the future, Im sure we could work something out.

  8. #8
    Sayers's Avatar
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    I removed the valves and persisted a little more with the finer lapping compound (I think I underdone it the first time) and I ended up getting them all to seal well and not pass any liquid, so I think I am going to leave it at that.

    I think so. It seems like something that you cant really go all that wrong with.
    I forget the brand I used, but it was the only stuff that Repco sold. It comes in a small 2 in 1 bottle. Half coarse paste and half fine paste.




    This is exactly why I asked. You need to use the coarse and fine paste and you need to give it a fair crack. You obviously got there on the second go.
    Sounds like your good to go. Good luck getting back on the water.

  9. #9
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    Cheers for the input bro!

  10. #10
    Eastside Powersports Slow 91's Avatar
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    dont use gas or brake parts cleaner. its way too thing, that stuff will leak on a properly done valve job. use water. If you see any water leaking you have a poor seal and lapping wont work.

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