10-16-2011, 05:46 AM #1
Need help for my friendís GTX 260is Limited
My friendhas a GTX 260is Limited 2010 model. At 30 hours it had a Prop / Shaft spline failure. He went it todealer and change the prop and shaft with the older type of shaft (withoutrubber coat). After 20 hours the ski flooded with water and almost sunk. Ihelped him to find the problem and I saw that the carbon ring hasnít goodcontact with the metal ring. I took out the shaft and found that the rubberplug from the PTO end missing. I put a new one and after I can feel enough pressurebetween carbon and metal ring.
We wentit for ride. First we check it on trailer and no water coming in. Then hewarmed up and went for a slow ride, came back check it again and it wascompletely dry. We thought it was OK but when he rode it again and reach topspeed it flooded in a few seconds. I recheck it again and everything looksfine. Any help please?
10-16-2011, 06:22 AM #2
Are the bailer tubes connected and hung up high?
Go for a ride with the seat off and you will soon find where the water is coming from.
10-16-2011, 07:21 AM #3
A couple of s3 spline failures that I have seen all needed new carbon seals and a new PTO plug. To verify for sure (if you want), then put the ski in the water and pull the battery hatch off. Poke your head down there and watch/listen for water coming in from that area. Even if it was trickling in you would slightly hear it and also notice water dripping from all around that area. I haven't doubt that it is anything else
10-16-2011, 08:46 AM #4
You are on the right track with the shaft issue and carbon ring. Look at post 55 in this thread: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=165557&page=6 regarding rubber o-rings to go on the bellows to put a little more pressure on the carbon ring. I know, another poor bandaid to a shitty design!
You should NOT be getting much water in the hull like that. The bailers do work well removing the water, but I doubt that is the source of water intrusion. You DO need to ensure the bailer tubes are zip tied up high in the hull so they do not back syphon.
You do need to do a thorough search for any other possible water intrusion sources: sponson bolts, all pump area bolts, exhaust, front intake grate bolt, etc.
This is another classic example of why everyone NEEDS 1-2 bilge pumps installed in their pwc!
I'm dealing with a similar issue with the drive shaft, pto seal leaking out oil, carbon seal water intrusion, etc.
10-19-2011, 02:25 PM #5
Today I pulled out the shaft and I found that the rubber plug on the shaft's PTO end was smashed again. That's why the water came in so fast. The shaft moved forward in the PTO and there was a gap between the carbon and ring. Can someone explain why a new rubber plug destroyed so fast?
10-19-2011, 02:30 PM #6
10-19-2011, 03:29 PM #7
10-19-2011, 03:59 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Montgomery, AL
Take the nose cone off and run it like that and see if it fixes the problem.
I had the same problem with my 05 RXP and a Solas prop/nosecone. At WOT water was entering the nose cone and pushing the shaft foward and lifting the ring off the carbon seal causing a fast leak and cavitation. At WOT the water would be forced in but the pressure would not bleed off. I ran without a nose cone and all was good, then I drilled a small hole in the nose cone to let the water out.
10-19-2011, 04:30 PM #9
10-19-2011, 05:16 PM #10
Could it be possible for loose or defective motor mounts to cause this?
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By trent_girardrxp in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 2Last Post: 09-29-2011, 02:25 AM
By gbest in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 5Last Post: 05-15-2011, 02:02 PM
By DoneDunIt in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 4Last Post: 05-15-2011, 09:14 AM
By sikharin in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 1Last Post: 07-12-2010, 03:06 PM
By HOSS in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 2Last Post: 05-07-2006, 05:43 PM