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  1. #1

    Blown out of the water

    My friend has a gp1200r Riva stage 2 with Riva heads. I have a stock gp1300r that he blows on by with no problem. I rode his on Sunday and the difference is night and day. he has SO much more holeshot and low range acceleration that its like a different machine. Of course he runs race gas which is a total PIA. My response to this, after comments here, is the following: D ring, pump stuffing, R&D intake grate , R&D "stock controller" reflash ( stage 1 ), and mild head compression bump. I presume this is about the most cost effective way to get close to his performance and still use 91 octane pump gas ?


  2. #2
    Just relax and enjoy the ride. XLT Chad's Avatar
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    Include a holeshot kit. Keeps the water from building up in the exhaust at low RPMs.

  3. #3
    jlfx car audio's Avatar
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    Wasn't there a thread about makin ur own holeshot kit?
    Could one eleminate the waterbox and get same or better results?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by strokersquid View Post
    My friend has a gp1200r Riva stage 2 with Riva heads. I have a stock gp1300r that he blows on by with no problem. I rode his on Sunday and the difference is night and day. he has SO much more holeshot and low range acceleration that its like a different machine. Of course he runs race gas which is a total PIA. My response to this, after comments here, is the following: D ring, pump stuffing, R&D intake grate , R&D "stock controller" reflash ( stage 1 ), and mild head compression bump. I presume this is about the most cost effective way to get close to his performance and still use 91 octane pump gas ?

    Yes.

    To be truely cost effective you must have an end game. If you change your end game, you may find yourself buying a component 2-3 times to get the most out of your boat. The deal is this: What if you invested all this money into a stage I, and it did not perform the way you thought it should? You would have to invest more money into it to get what you want.

    There are some people out there I would bet that have a stage I and wished they would have invested a tad more to get the Stage II. I doubt that there are any people out there with a Stage II saying that they wished they had less power.

    Do you really want to go to a full stage II 1300, or just hover around the abilities of a stage II 1200? The differences in price between a Stage I and II are not so far apart, and you get a lot more "umph" for your money with a stage II.

    Hey it is your boat, and once you decide to go for it, don't look back...... Just be very clear with yourself as to what you really want.

  5. #5
    I do not want to rod the piss out of it, I want to have similar acceleration and top end but without the noise increase, with reliability, and with 91 octane pump gas. Is there something I am missing, or something here at odds with this ? Pale Rider thought highly of the re-flash after trying many of the other mods. I do not want to repeat mistakes that somebody else could warn me away from.

  6. #6
    Just relax and enjoy the ride. XLT Chad's Avatar
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    Your on the right track. With the list of items you mentioned, Milling the head, re-flash the ECU, a correctly pitched prop, and the IR holesot kit, You should be impressed with the increase in performance. If you dont want the "drone" leaving the exahust stock will still work fine.

  7. #7
    your going to need to call R&D and speak with Glenn or Bill. The reflash already requires 91+ for a stock compression engine. You might need a different "tune" if you want to push the PSI into the 145-150`s...

    been there done that, back to stock, very reliable, period...

    I am currently very happy with the ski performing with just a reflash. no worries, no headaches... 92 octane, 40:1 premix, Done, go ride...

    I`m also running the FF and have very good rpm, so NO loss there. I`m using the stock prop which is a compromise between holeshot and speed. Yes the Skat will let you scream out of the hole with a lot of top end rpm, but then you get into a whole nother situation with stuffing the pump with prop speed VS hull speed and plate set up...
    The solas 14\20 will be a bit steep for a stock ski in hot climates, there is def a rpm difference between hot and cooler days...

    holeshot mod< sure it will get you out of the hole quicker if that is what you wish. For me not a thought anymore, I don`t race the ski and rolling starts just off idle work great...

    To prevent errors you NEED to read. The science behind the GPR is yesterdays news... so it`s all out there... and still this is just a starting point or direction bc ALL ski`s are different as are rider`s, waters etc and performance outputs...
    I could write a book here, but it`s already written...
    Have a plan, choose your parts wisely, install and ride...
    Forget about comparing these watercrafts to any motorcycle 2 stroke, not the same...
    timing, porting, fueling requirements are all very different...
    Good Luck...
    BTW, you will NEED an aftermarket tach to dial in any prop mod, and set the Pro valve for the IR jetworks holeshot kit...

  8. #8
    The R&D site says you can run compression about 135 or so with the stage 1 without requiring more than 91 octane gas, but compression would be unnecessary if just the reflash gives good performance. I also would not be goosing it from a dead stop so holeshot mods may not be necessary if it works from low speeds.The pump void filling kit ( is this stuffing the pump ? ) seems to be a freebie. Does it add much ? By FF you mean free flow filter ?

  9. #9
    Back to the top for Pale Rider to notice

  10. #10
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by strokersquid View Post
    The R&D site says you can run compression about 135 or so with the stage 1 without requiring more than 91 octane gas, but compression would be unnecessary if just the reflash gives good performance. I also would not be goosing it from a dead stop so holeshot mods may not be necessary if it works from low speeds.The pump void filling kit ( is this stuffing the pump ? ) seems to be a freebie. Does it add much ? By FF you mean free flow filter ?
    Stuffing the pump, refers to making the ski go faster then the pump and impeller can process the water through it. When that happens, the ski bucks up and can take a hard turn and throw you off. Its a dangerous situation you need to be aware of as you modify your gpr.
    Pump shoe sealing it what you are thinking of. Thats where you fill the voids to avoid sucking air into the pump.

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