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  1. #1
    Pole rider and couch speed freak!
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    4 tec Head gasket issues on 06 RXP-Better assembly options?

    Hey guys,

    I am putting a head gasket on a customer's ski that has a few cold air mods. It had melted most of the teflon coating off of the gasket and was pushing the coolant into the oil through the combustion chamber.

    Are there any upgrades/options when reassembling (gasket, bolts, etc), or are the OEM parts going to have the best longevity?

    Also, the head appears to be flat within .002" everywhere. SD does not give a warpage spec in the manual. On a normal head I would just cut it, but with the valve position Im sure they will need to be removed to skim cut the head, and am trying to keep the cost down. Cost is irrelevant if it leaks again though lol...........

    Any advice is appreciated!


  2. #2
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philip clemmons View Post
    Hey guys,

    I am putting a head gasket on a customer's ski that has a few cold air mods. It had melted most of the teflon coating off of the gasket and was pushing the coolant into the oil through the combustion chamber.

    Are there any upgrades/options when reassembling (gasket, bolts, etc), or are the OEM parts going to have the best longevity?

    Also, the head appears to be flat within .002" everywhere. SD does not give a warpage spec in the manual. On a normal head I would just cut it, but with the valve position Im sure they will need to be removed to skim cut the head, and am trying to keep the cost down. Cost is irrelevant if it leaks again though lol...........

    Any advice is appreciated!
    Pushing coolant into the oil is rare.. Normally the gaskets blow out between the combustion chamber and water jackets.

    Riva offer a gasket that is made by Cometic, but most advise to stick with the OEM gasket. People are running upwards of 20psi on the stock HG.
    You can go with ARP head studs, they are about twice the price of stock head bolts, but they are re-usable. If you go this route though be sure to torque them down to 95ft/lbs. People have ran into problems when torquing to the recommended 85ft/lbs.

    The seadoo manual states warpage on the head to be less than 6thou, so you should be fine there.

  3. #3
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    How did the issue started? Overheating? Install a new oem gasket warm her up and re-torque. New head bolts are a must since you are having this issue you want to rule all that out.

  4. #4

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    I never cut a warped head.. toss it and get a new one. If the head is warped 5 or 6 thou, it will generally straighten right back out when you retorque it, but again, I toss them. If you mill a warped head, the cam bores will still be warped with the new shape of the head, and the cam will not turn.. that is if you can even get it in the bores...

    I typically put 220grit sticky DA paper down on my granite plate and lap the head in with tool oil. you may see a spot not touching here or there, just lap until it cleans up everywhere, but check it first and make sure you are only working on .001 or .002..

    Now the block is another story, they are usually low between the bores on my motors. again, I lap them on the granite plate, but if it is more then .003 or .004 I'll set it up on the mill and take a clean up pass at it..

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Louis914 View Post
    I never cut a warped head.. toss it and get a new one. If the head is warped 5 or 6 thou, it will generally straighten right back out when you retorque it, but again, I toss them. If you mill a warped head, the cam bores will still be warped with the new shape of the head, and the cam will not turn.. that is if you can even get it in the bores...

    I typically put 220grit sticky DA paper down on my granite plate and lap the head in with tool oil. you may see a spot not touching here or there, just lap until it cleans up everywhere, but check it first and make sure you are only working on .001 or .002..

    Now the block is another story, they are usually low between the bores on my motors. again, I lap them on the granite plate, but if it is more then .003 or .004 I'll set it up on the mill and take a clean up pass at it..
    hey louis what is the most you would want to remove from the block as to not have piston / valve interference/problems? What about changes in cam timing?

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