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  1. #1
    cconigliaro's Avatar
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    Rough Idle causing Front Mount to break (Ultra 150)

    I had brought this up in another thread of mine but the thread started to run off my original topic. Here is the low down. I bought a 2005 ultra 150 a couple months ago and since then have had to replace 3 flame arrestor brackets and 3 front mounts. I have finally narrowed it down to a rough idle causing the mount to break. Every time I would end of with a broken mount was after a long idle in a no wake zone. If I have the ski on the hose at idle and shine a flashlight on the front mount, you can see the new mount (Not Broken Yet) heavily dancing side to side. It seems it only takes this abuse for so long before it gives out. So far I have only changed out the fuel filter thinking it may have been a little clogged giving me inadequate fuel delivery down low. I also have a brand new set of BRK9ES plugs gapped to 30 in it. Someone on the forum suggested it sounded like fuel was suffering at idle. Is there a way to adjust my fuel delivery at idle? I'm starting to think this may be carb related. The guy I bought the ski from said he had done a carb rebuild a few months before I bought the ski. Motor supposedly has never been taken apart and is all stock with no aftermarket parts attached. Ski has 135 hours. I'm going to do my best to post a video this weekend of the mount at idle. Any Ideas will greatly help. I have not had a solid weekend of riding since I bought it. Thanks


  2. #2
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    What rpm are you idleing at? Mine shakes all over the place if the idle is too low.
    I just turned up the idle a bit until it runs better. It's real easy.
    Just idle in the water, get it fully warmed up and remvoe the seat and turn the idle rpm knob at the front of the engine (its on the bracket where the throttle and choke cables mount to the engine exhaust) Turn it clockwise and idle will go up and shaking will go down. ** must be done in the water, not on the trailer**
    Mine is set to around 1200 to 1400 RPM (2 boxes above the 1000 rpm mark on the tach.
    I have over 170 hrs and its a 2000 and have never broke a motor mount.

    Also when you installed the new mount, were there any shims under the original mount? You must put them on the new mount or else the alignment of engine to drive sharft will be off vertically and that will over stress the driveshaft and front mount.

  3. #3
    cconigliaro's Avatar
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    here is a video idling at 1800 on hose. i have tried all different rpm ranges.
    http://www.youtube.com/wa...ure=youtube_gdata_player

  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    Bad link.

    The Ultra carbs are a lot trickier to work on than the old ones. Possible the the previous owner didn't get it back together right. There is an adjustment for the low speed mixture, not the high speed.

  5. #5
    cconigliaro's Avatar
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    Sorry.. Here's the link again


  6. #6
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    Wow, that is one crappy idle. If thats 1800 rpm and it shaking like that. That looks more like 800 rpm, not 1800.

    Are you sure the rear mounts are ok, that engine is moving around a heck of a lot.

    Just a note on flushing, I think your pumping too much water though it on the hose. Should be just enough to get a light streem out of the pisser, anymore and your flooding the exhaust.

    If the previous owner had the carbs apart lots could be wrong. Even the carb phasing would have to be checked. (making sure all the butterfles are in sync).

    Get a service manual, the are avaliable online. If your not mechanicly inclined it needs to have a pro look at it. If you are, then you need to go through the carbs from one end to the other. That engine is not running right at all.

    I see he had the carbs off cause the oil lines are not in the stock routing. They don't look line stock oil lines either, they should be clear, those look grey.

    How do the sparkplugs look after a ride? All the same?

  7. #7
    cconigliaro's Avatar
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    I'm pretty inclined to do the work. I have the manual as well. It looks like a lot of water because I'm missing the rubber gasket for my flush kit that attaches to the hose. I freshly changed out all my mounts so I know they are good. Yes it is 1800 rpm as well. Looks like I will be pulling the carbs. Can reeds cause issues like this? The ski runs perfect otherwise. Nice powerband and the plugs were all nice and golden brown. I also pulled the plugs after being on those hose for a few minutes and they were just a little wet but all looked the same. I replaced fuel filter and trimmed back plug wires so far. I'm curious if this could be caused by the low speed adjustment, a/f mixture screw, or the pilot screw which I have yet to find. This idle is ripping through my mounts like crazy.

  8. #8
    cconigliaro's Avatar
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    Yeah the previous owner changed the oil lines before I bought the ski. They are all clear except for one grey one as he said he ran out of the clear line.

  9. #9
    cconigliaro's Avatar
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    Finally got a chance to look at things tonight and I wanted to start by inspecting the carbs and reeds before I pulled the motor. Pulled off carbs and then removed the reed cages. Cages 1 and 3 were good. On cage 2, I can see the cage through all of the reeds as normal when the reed is closed except for one. On the one in question, it is not perfectly closed. If I shine a light through the cage I can see light come through and see it's not sitting against the cage. Would this cause any issues?

  10. #10
    cconigliaro's Avatar
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    I believe this problem will finally come to its conclusion. If you remember, I said the previous owner replaced the oil pump. It looks as when he pulled the oil pump off, he disengaged the balancer gear which caused the balancer to swing around due to being weighted on one side. When he put the pump back on, he must have re engaged the gear but it was off. Today I carefully pulled the Stator cover off to not disturb the Balancer gear and when I rotated the crank so the mark was directly to the right, the balance gear mark was also completely to the right. I disengaged the balance gear and swung it to the left where the 2 marks completely matched up. I believe this is the proper way to align them according to the manual. If someone could just answer the reed question in my last post it would be helpful before I put this thing back together. Thanks.

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