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  1. #1
    xray328's Avatar
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    Anyone know where I can find an inexpensive inline hose pump?

    I've looked everywhere and can't find a reasonably priced inline garden hose pump. I just need it to get anti-freeze in through the flush line. I bought a drill pump but that thing sucks. It works about 10% of the time, and everytime I'd get it working disconnected, I go to start the engine, connect the hose and it'd stop pumping. Went through two gallons of anti-freeze this way. Total pain in the arse.

    I've found a few pumps, but their over $100.

    Any help is appreciated.


  2. #2
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Garden spray pump..


  3. #3
    Just relax and enjoy the ride. XLT Chad's Avatar
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  4. #4
    xray328's Avatar
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    Thanks!

  5. #5
    Sierra8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XLT Chad View Post
    Been using the same one for 3 years, also use it to winterize my outboard and drain my pool cover.

  6. #6
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    I'm curious if a gravity feed setup like the ones DIY inboard/outboard boat owners use or is pumping it in a better idea.

  7. #7
    This is what works for me, I have used this method for years. I understand there are other ways, not everyone will agree to this method, but oh well... to each their own... I did see the bug sprayer in action on the 2 stroke doo`s...

    Here is ONE method I use to winterize my EFI 1300 ski. Obviously carb`d models will be a bit different.

    Before you winterize the engine:::
    Run your fuel tank low or siphon out the gas thru the rubber removable cap found on top of the fuel tank. It`s ok, to keep 1-2 gallons in there. I don`t believe in filling the tank, bc you`ll have to run that stale gas or siphon that out at a later date. 2 strokes hate stale gas... Add the required amount of "Stabil" to the remaining fuel in the tank.
    reinstall the rubber cap on the tank...

    Now you are ready to start your engine on this winterization/pump method, This is to let the "Stabil" circulate thru the fuel system and thru the fuel injectors.

    There are quite a few ways to do this, some use a pressurized bug sprayer, a lot of us use a submersible pump (like the kind you use to empty your pool).
    Some just remove one of the head cooling hoses and pour PINK antifreeze down inside the case, but that does nothing to get the antifreeze down the exhaust and into the SS tank and waterbox...
    Here is what we do:
    We take the submersible pump and adapt the outlet to a length of hose to attach to the flush port on the ski. Some people pinch off the hose at the RED "Y" so the antifreeze fluid doesnt drain back thru the pump, I don`t do this I simply place a pan under the pump/ride plate area and recycle the antifreeze back into the 5 gallon pail...

    Procedure, insert submersible pump into a 5 gallon pail, pour in about 4 gallons of the PINK eco friendly antifreeze, connect the hose from the pump to the flush port, start up the ski, turn on the pump, let the ski idle until you see the pink antifreeze come out of the pissers and exhaust while also watching the pail and keeping it filled preventing it from running dry. After you see the PINK antifreeze come out of all the usual spots, shut off submersible pump, gently raise the rpms a few times to 4K rpms and shut off ski. Let whatever PINK antifreeze leak out the back, you could also raise the trailer tongue to get a few more ounces out...

    Normally the engine will drain, the idea is to displace whatever water is in the lower part of the cylinders that didn`t drain and the waterbox with the PINK antifreeze...

    Let cool down, remove plugs, Get a 3/8 wooden dowel about 2 ft long from Home depot or Lowes. Use this dowel to push down the Piston in the cylinder you want to service, finish and move onto the next. liberally spray storage oil into cylinder directing the "red straw" towards the transfer ports so it leaches down into the case...pay close attention so the red straw does not come off and go into the cylinder...lol...
    Spraying just onto the piston domes doesnt do anything, also get some on the cylinder walls. Do all cylinders.

    When completed, reinstall the plugs and you can just give these a good hand tightening, no need to torque to spec unless your installing new plugs at this time, I usually pull the plugs a few times during the winter and give them another shot of juice. Remove the battery, remove the fire extinguisher and place inside.
    get yourself one of those absorbant/moisture tub things bought at a marine store or walmart etc, follow direction and place in a low part of the hull, this will wick any moisture while the ski is resting.

    You can also spray down the engine if you like with CRC56, or suitable protectant.
    The throttle bodies inside are pretty well lubed from the oil spitting back, they will remain clean unless the ski was sunk... spray down the exterior with a good know lube, just don`t go nuts, keep the cable linkage lubed etc etc...

    before you put her away for the year, it`s a good time to lube up the joints/trim mechanism/trim cables, throttle cable etc...
    Good luck...

    items needed:
    tools for plug and battery removal
    A good storage oil, CRC56 marine or XPS is a good lube and Stabil for the fuel tank
    2 ft piece of 3/8 wooden dowel
    5 gallon pail
    submersible pump
    hose fittings and adapter to hook the pump to the flush port on the ski...
    extension cord to plug in the pump...
    4-5 gallons of the eco friendly PINK boat antifreeze.
    __________________

  8. #8
    Cutlass, that outdrive has a water pump impeller to push the antifreeze up to the engine, correct?

  9. #9
    to the OP, I didn`t try that one from HF, looks like it would do the job tho... I did purchase a submersible from Lowes...

  10. #10
    xray328's Avatar
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    So Pale Rider, you just fill up a bucket and drop the pump in there?

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