12-06-2011, 07:53 PM #1
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
One Method to winterizing your GP1300R
Here is THE method I use to winterize my ski. Obviously carb`d models will be a bit different.
Feel free to add your method to this thread, then we`ll work on this to become a sticky!
Before you winterize the engine:::
Run your fuel tank low or siphon out the gas thru the rubber removable cap found on top of the fuel tank. It`s ok, to keep 1-2 gallons in there. I don`t believe in filling the tank, bc you`ll have to run that stale gas or siphon that out at a later date. 2 strokes hate stale gas... Add the required amount of "Stabil" to the remaining fuel in the tank.
reinstall the rubber cap on the tank...
Now you are ready to start your engine on this winterization/pump method, This is to let the "Stabil" circulate thru the fuel system and thru the fuel injectors.
There are quite a few ways to do this, some use a pressurized bug sprayer, a lot of us use a submersible pump (like the kind you use to empty your pool).
Some just remove one of the head cooling hoses and pour PINK antifreeze down inside the case, but that does nothing to get the antifreeze down the exhaust and into the SS tank and waterbox...
Here is what we do:
We take the submersible pump and adapt the outlet to a length of hose to attach to the flush port on the ski. Some people pinch off the hose at the RED "Y" so the antifreeze fluid doesnt drain back thru the pump, I don`t do this I simply place a pan under the pump/ride plate area and recycle the antifreeze back into the 5 gallon pail...
Procedure, insert submersible pump into a 5 gallon pail, pour in about 4 gallons of the PINK eco friendly antifreeze, connect the hose from the pump to the flush port, start up the ski, turn on the pump, let the ski idle until you see the pink antifreeze come out of the pissers and exhaust while also watching the pail and keeping it filled preventing it from running dry. After you see the PINK antifreeze come out of all the usual spots, shut off submersible pump, gently raise the rpms a few times to 4K rpms and shut off ski. Let whatever PINK antifreeze leak out the back, you could also raise the trailer tongue to get a few more ounces out...
Normally the engine will drain, the idea is to displace whatever water is in the lower part of the cylinders that didn`t drain and the waterbox with the PINK antifreeze...
Let cool down, remove plugs, Get a 3/8 wooden dowel about 2 ft long from Home depot or Lowes. Use this dowel to push down the Piston in the cylinder you want to service, finish and move onto the next. liberally spray storage oil into cylinder directing the "red straw" towards the transfer ports so it leaches down into the case...pay close attention so the red straw does not come off and go into the cylinder...lol...
Spraying just onto the piston domes doesnt do anything, also get some on the cylinder walls. Do all cylinders.
When completed, reinstall the plugs and you can just give these a good hand tightening, no need to torque to spec unless your installing new plugs at this time, I usually pull the plugs a few times during the winter and give them another shot of juice. Remove the battery, remove the fire extinguisher and place inside.
get yourself one of those absorbant/moisture tub things bought at a marine store or walmart etc, follow direction and place in a low part of the hull, this will wick any moisture while the ski is resting.
You can also spray down the engine if you like with CRC56, or suitable protectant. WD40 is not a good spray to use, WD40 displaces water and was originally used to move moisture off of the ignition terminals in distributor caps years ago, even tho it has many household uses, it attracts water...
The throttle bodies inside are pretty well lubed from the oil spitting back, they will remain clean unless the ski was sunk... spray down the exterior with a good know lube, just don`t go nuts, keep the cable linkage lubed etc etc...
before you put her away for the year, it`s a good time to lube up the joints/trim mechanism/trim cables, throttle cable etc...
tools for plug and battery removal
A good storage oil, CRC56 marine or XPS is a good lube and Stabil for the fuel tank
2 ft piece of 3/8 wooden dowel
5 gallon pail
hose fittings and adapter to hook the pump to the flush port on the ski...
extension cord to plug in the pump...
4-5 gallons of the eco friendly PINK boat antifreeze.
Disclaimer: as stated this is what I do for my ski and works for me. It is not to entice or spark a debate or suggest argument in anyone methods.
I`ve used this method on several other brands and models while also following manufacturer`s suggested instructions.
12-07-2011, 02:35 PM #2
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- SE Pa.
in the year i have been on this site, i have followed,and adopted many of andys methods for ski maintenance. he is very anal. the only time i think that could be bad is if you are in porn.
now if he had a sound method to winterize the old lady.....
12-07-2011, 03:30 PM #3
12-07-2011, 05:45 PM #4
12-19-2011, 04:16 PM #5
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
great write up.
12-23-2011, 01:14 PM #6
12-24-2011, 09:10 AM #7
I love you Andy, but 4 gallons? Are you winterizing a gpr or twin 502's?
12-24-2011, 04:56 PM #8
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
01-23-2012, 07:23 AM #9
This is a little over kill but I will help make sure you can ride with little TROUBLE in the spring.
Good write up PR
10-28-2012, 04:36 PM #10
Was reading this thread and others and I was unable to find anything other than running fuel supply low and adding marine stabil for carb winterization.Was wondering if there was any downside to unhooking carb lines(with plugs out) and feeding fogging oil in thru the supply side.Hope some carb gurus respond.Mike
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