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  1. #1
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    Comparing Open Loop setups to Heat Exchanger setups

    I have read all the open loop and heat exchanger threads but did not really find what I was looking for.

    I am looking for pros and cons with each setup, any performance gains with either, reliablity on motor.
    What I guess, I am looking for, is for someone to convience me that I need to run open loop over my heat exhchanger setup.

    I did not have a single issue with my 30HX setup this past year, so for me to go open loop there has to be something to gain.
    And I dont have a problem with the coolant as my setup is simple and clean, so that is not the gain I am looking for.

    thanks


  2. #2
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Boom..

  3. #3
    Autosport's Avatar
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    If the heat exchanger works use it, I have always been a fan of keeping things simple (the KISS method in most things I do) & my open loop setup with open loop has always been rock solid................. Until......................

    Last year I rebuilt my engine due to a lean out from a failed fuel pump.?after only a few hours on the new engine STUPID me left a hose clam loose after having the pump out, hose popped off at full noise and the engine got hot... Make sure I didn't damage anything I pulled the head off for a look and found the rear cylinder wetter/oily compared to the others, only thing I can put it down too is oil rings not bed in properly... And I put this down to being the first cylinder the cold water is hitting do that particular cylinder doesn't ever reach operating temp, so rings never bed in properly. (comp was always down a couple of psi on this cylinder compared to the others too, which also confirms my theory).

    I'm changing the rings, but I'm going to try a hotter thermostat, but otherwise a heat exchange setup is what I'm thinking.

    I think you have to ask your self if you're after a reliable social ski or a race ski. If its the first, stick with heat exchanger, if it's ultimate speed where the engine is pulled down for regular maintenance anyway then open loop is prob your better option.

  4. #4
    rangermtb5's Avatar
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    I had the same debated in my conversion ski - I even bought all the stuff of open loop, then changed my mind and sold it.

    A wise man once told me - "One of the few things Sea Doo got right the first time on these skis is the cooling system, stick with it and don't mess with it."

  5. #5
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    I was debating this issue with StockRXP last night, my theory is that I want my coolant or water if open loop to stay a constant temp as best it can.
    This should not be as big of an issue in the summer but lets say you ride in some 60 degree water, would you not have a big temp swing from cold to hot thru out the motor/head?
    Someone please correct me if i am wrong as this is only "My" thinking.

    I fill that the HX setup will have a more constant temp?

  6. #6
    Besides the obvious issue with salt corrosion, there are a couple of downsides to open loop that don't get much press. The first is cylinder wear. Contrary to most peoples belief, you want the cylinders as hot as possible to minimize wear. (but I admit I have never heard of a 4-tec cylinder wearing out!) The other is removal of moisture from the oil. You want to keep the oil hot enough, but not too hot, to boil off moisture and reduce acid formation and sludge. Somewhere between 180-210 F is good.

    I don't know if anyone has any good data that compares the above two factors with closed vs open loop. I agree with the other posters, if all you care about is racing speed, go with open, if you want your ski to stay in good shape for awhile, stick with closed.

  7. #7
    West Texas RXP skoepp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autosport View Post
    I think you have to ask your self if you're after a reliable social ski or a race ski. If its the first, stick with heat exchanger, if it's ultimate speed where the engine is pulled down for regular maintenance anyway then open loop is prob your better option.
    I like this idea.

    Also i ride in fresh water, so I am ruleing out salt water use being a reason to run HX.
    I definitely would not go open loop if i rode in salt water. JMO

  8. #8
    A smart admits!A wicked excuses!An idiot insists! mitsakosgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    Besides the obvious issue with salt corrosion, there are a couple of downsides to open loop that don't get much press. The first is cylinder wear. Contrary to most peoples belief, you want the cylinders as hot as possible to minimize wear. (but I admit I have never heard of a 4-tec cylinder wearing out!) The other is removal of moisture from the oil. You want to keep the oil hot enough, but not too hot, to boil off moisture and reduce acid formation and sludge. Somewhere between 180-210 F is good.

    I don't know if anyone has any good data that compares the above two factors with closed vs open loop. I agree with the other posters, if all you care about is racing speed, go with open, if you want your ski to stay in good shape for awhile, stick with closed.
    Quote Originally Posted by skoepp View Post
    I like this idea.

    Also i ride in fresh water, so lets rule out salt water use being a reason to run HX.
    I definitely would not go open loop if i rode in salt water. JMO
    These are the reasons why I went closed loop on my project ski!

  9. #9
    Autosport's Avatar
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    Salt water issue is a load of shit, I have ridden 3 years salt with open loop & when I pulled my motor down last year everything was Micky mouse... It all comes down to maintenance, flush your ski & wash it properly & fog it if not riding for a while after salt water use & you'll never have an issue.

    If you don't, you'll have far more issues than just something caused as a result of open loop setup.

    If you run a modified ski, expect to maintain it properly or expect things to go wrong.

  10. #10
    Mod less, ride more! troyheb's Avatar
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    I went open loop. Like it so far. I was having overheat problems with the closed loop plate. We are running a 160deg thermo and I let the ski warm up to 160 before I hammer down, usually only takes about 2-3 min for it to warm up, just enough time for me to get my shades on, gloves on, and earplugs in. Temp stays consistant. Cruising it stays around 165. WOT it stays about the same. It will spike after you shut it of to around 180, but as soon as you start it back it goes right back down to around 160.
    Also should add I have not had any problems with gas in oil.

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