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  1. #1
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    Mini-rude to 2rude

    Hey guys, just bought a 2Rude from ou812, I'm wondering how much of an improvement I'm going to notice over my mini.

    The main reason for the purchase was my s/c is going to need a rebuild before too much longer, so I thought why not upgrade to a low hour 2rude. I will stop spending money on mods soon right??...... Please tell me yes..... haha.

    I know the improvement isn't going to be drastic, just curious to know what I should expect. If anyone is in the market for a mini-rude, I'll probably be selling mine pretty soon.

    Thanks James, your great to deal with.


  2. #2
    bradsta's Avatar
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    I think your gonna want to do some sort of prv, or you might be taking a swim dude!! Isn't jp1300 getting low/mid 80's with a 2rude??

  3. #3
    hero's Avatar
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    +2rude
    felt the big differnce with this charger

  4. #4
    JPR's Avatar
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    I built a rxtx cc ski with a mini rude and found that charger was awesome especially for high water temps..
    you need to keep in mind air temps, air volume etc compared to the timing, fuelling you have...
    water temps have a lot to do with performance in the inter-cooler etc as sometimes they barley get 5-10 deg above ambient air temp .
    I can set a ski up for 27deg water temps in NQ and it will run like sh!t in Melbourne and burn rings....JMO !
    also Jim is great to deal with, bought many a parts from him. great seller !!!
    to eloborate I know a Bkit works better in high water temps then a Ckit as the extra blade on a Ckit seams to produce more heat on the same fueling/timing. after adjusting it , it barley made much difference...( little better throttle response)
    I love the B-kit in Northern waters ( humid conditions), best charger hands down for cc IMO
    but your from SA ? so you need a different charger every day of the week
    my point is boost verses volume of air is suited to the surrounding air temp/water temp/humidity, not just a web site explanation as that is usually on a cold lake at 3am.....

  5. #5
    Eric Ocman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monaroman76 View Post
    Hey guys, just bought a 2Rude from ou812, I'm wondering how much of an improvement I'm going to notice over my mini.

    The main reason for the purchase was my s/c is going to need a rebuild before too much longer, so I thought why not upgrade to a low hour 2rude. I will stop spending money on mods soon right??...... Please tell me yes..... haha.

    I know the improvement isn't going to be drastic, just curious to know what I should expect. If anyone is in the market for a mini-rude, I'll probably be selling mine pretty soon.

    Thanks James, your great to deal with.
    Best advice to you is to have Jerry do a reflash for you up to 9.5K so you have it available. You can tune for 8900 or so and will never have a fear of running on the limiter and blowing head gaskets etc bro.

  6. #6
    JPR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocman View Post
    Best advice to you is to have Jerry do a reflash for you up to 9.5K so you have it available. You can tune for 8900 or so and will never have a fear of running on the limiter and blowing head gaskets etc bro.
    mate are you not concerned about valve float when coming unhooked with a high limit like 9500 and tuning to 8900 ?
    If you run on a flat lake its great but in the ocean a 600rpm spike is a lot of excess pressure that you just don`t need on the valves, retainers and springs IMO.
    Set a limit and have availability to tune 200-300 +- If the climate produces that much heat fade.
    personally I would have different props for different seasons....but that`s JMO !

  7. #7
    Eric Ocman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaffabas View Post
    mate are you not concerned about valve float when coming unhooked with a high limit like 9500 and tuning to 8900 ?
    If you run on a flat lake its great but in the ocean a 600rpm spike is a lot of excess pressure that you just don`t need on the valves, retainers and springs IMO.
    Set a limit and have avILABILITY TO TUNE 200-300 +- If the climate produces that much heat fade.
    People are running 10k with stock valves and the riva valvetrain upgrade with no issues. I have the riva valvetrain and stock lightened valves. The OP already has the riva valvetrain and fererra valves so he is good to go. He can tune for whatever RPM he likes as well bro. To many people (myself included at one time) push their ECUS to the limit and run to close to the limiter which is dangerous.

  8. #8
    JPR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocman View Post
    People are running 10k with stock valves and the riva valvetrain upgrade with no issues. I have the riva valvetrain and stock lightened valves. The OP already has the riva valvetrain and fererra valves so he is good to go. He can tune for whatever RPM he likes as well bro. To many people (myself included at one time) push their ECUS to the limit and run to close to the limiter which is dangerous.
    Ocman I totally agree running on the limiter or intermittent is not at all good.
    I personally think that a limit has to be set by the owner and then tune/mod from there.
    If you have a choppy day (ocean ) and constantly have 600rpm spikes then its going to hurt/wear no matter what brand of valves,retainers,springs,oiling, spacers etc etc you have over time. its just not needed.
    my personal opinion that I recommend for my customers and set up is to have at least 2 props tweeked.
    winter and summer ( for rec) and endless testing for CC.
    keep in mind our weather (AUS) is a lot different to most of the states...
    I think there is a lot of confusion to fuelling,timing,rpm etc etc in different countries as the temps are significantly different and the other party is use to there surroundings.
    Humidity plays a massive part in skis where a lot of people just cant get there head around until they experience it. a frozen inter-cooler and winterising is almost unheard of here..
    chargers and intercoolers play the main roll here IMO... It sucks to be in the humid heat here as you have to work more on cooling and boost with less volume/friction/ heat.

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