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  1. #1

    HELP!!! 2000 XL1200 Limited electrical issue

    I just rebuilt the top end of my XL1200L, bought it with the engine seized, piston 3 had locked. I put everything together by the book, engine compartment looked great, clean, and well maintained. Hull has 179 hrs. When I try to start it, all I hear is a click coming from the starter solenoid inside the electrical box. I opened the box, everything looks like new. I bypassed/bridged the solenoid and the engine turns freely, the starter sounds strong. Also, an alarm goes off when I hit the start button and the dash reads 'start'. Previous owner did not know engine was seized and had replaced solenoid with a new one thinking that was the problem. I do not know a lot about electric/electronic trouble shooting for this machine, any help will be very appreciated...
    Last edited by MICHEPE69; 03-17-2012 at 08:11 PM.


  2. #2

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    Make sure you have a fully charged/good battery,a weak battery will make it do strange things

  3. #3

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    Just my .02 worth....

    I'd also recommend checking all the electrical connections for corrosion. If the battery's good and still having problems pay particular attention to the (-) neg connections at the engine and battery. For a 10 year old ski it wouldn't be out of the ordinary for the starter to start acting up or the start relay to need attention. My bet is a poor connection someplace.... start there.

    Just a thought, make sure your battery's good before tearing into these other things. Measure the battery voltage as your trying to start it. If it drops to below 10.5 volts when under load then it's needing attention.

    Good Luck!

  4. #4
    Ok guys, I'm back!!. So, winter is almost over here and weather is getting warmer. I just took the ski out of storage yesterday to pick up where I left when it got too cold out. I bought a new battery, fully charged it and dropped it in. I went through every single connection in the front hatch, NONE of them was dirty/corroded or damaged, they all looked like new! I still sprayed them with electronic cleaner and applied a thin layer of dielectric grease. I then moved to the engine compartment, disconnected the negative post/cable, cleaned it with sand paper thoroughly, lubed it and reconnected it. I did the same with positive on starter. No faulty fuses. I even opened up the switch box on the handle bar, no corrosion there either, looks new. This machine has been well taken care of through its 12 years, it might have been in salt/blackish waters but it does not show damage/corrosion.

    Sooo.... I still get the same thing when I try to star it. I get a "start" code when I press on the start button the first time, I hear a click on the electrical box and nothing happens. When I hit the button again, I get " w temp" code, an arrow pointing to the thermometer sign on the dash and a high pitch alarm. I swapped the starter solenoid/relay in the electrical box for a new one, same results. I will look at the connections inside the electrical box AGAIN, but not optimistic there since I already went through it. Starter is strong, turns engine freely and fast when I bridge it.

    Where do I look next? What's my next step? Should I give up and bring it in (not ready yet!!!)? I'm in central NJ and don't know any reputable places, any recommendations?

  5. #5
    Have you checked out the starter its self yet? Ive seen a few of the rotax engines do the same click sound like a dead battery and if you kept hitting the button adventualy it would go, but it was the starter locking up. If you can, rebuild it, but if you have to replace it dont use the sbt ones as ive also seen those ones be faulty from the factory and cause myself and others to rip their hair out chasing it down. Have you checked to see what you have going to the starter as far as voltage? What about the resistance through the starter? I would also check your major wires (ground, starter supply, etc) for high resistance, just because the terminals are clean dosnt mean the wire inbetween them isnt cooked.

  6. #6
    leejax01's Avatar
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    Um, sounds like you have a bad temp sensor if you are able to bridge the selenoid and get it to fire. Either the top or the lower one on the exhaust. If you are running a dplate, make sure temp sensor is good and the lower one went out on me once and caused ski not to fire. Would explain the alarm. Make sure temp connections are clean and connected before starting.

  7. #7
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    Here is a simple test to try. open the electrical box and take a wire and ground the black wire from the starter relay were it bolts to the other grounds in the in the elec. box to the neg terminal on the battery then try to start it normally. if it starts you have a bad ground somewhere. if it does the same thing unplug the brown wire from the start relay and touch it to the battery side (hot side) of the relay if it tries to start spinning the motor the relay and started are working properly. let us know what it does and then go from there.

  8. #8
    Ok, update to my electrical issue. Replaced solenoid, engine finally spinning freely now , BUT this thing is NOT STARTING. No spark on the plugs, not that I can see anyways, and the "w.temp" code comes up with the alarm as soon as I hit the starter. Can it be the water temperature sensor is bad and that is preventing the engine from starting as a safety feature?? The little one all the way back in the lower exhaust pipe, is that the one that can be bad? Looks like a pain to take out, don't tell me the whole stinger has to come out! I saw just ONE in all e-bay, $99.00 used, is that the only one available? Can I do with out it? Maybe a bypass, bridge, take it out some how??

  9. #9
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    Yes it sounds like the sensor at the rear of the pipe. make sure the connection is good and not corroded. also does it have a D plate and chip. were are you located there might be a member on here who has one.

  10. #10
    leejax01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leejax01 View Post
    Um, sounds like you have a bad temp sensor if you are able to bridge the selenoid and get it to fire. Either the top or the lower one on the exhaust. If you are running a dplate, make sure temp sensor is good and the lower one went out on me once and caused ski not to fire. Would explain the alarm. Make sure temp connections are clean and connected before starting.

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