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  1. #1
    Goliath's Avatar
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    Driveshaft Splines Seized?

    I'm in the process of removing the pump on my '00 GP1200R to replace the impeller and wear ring. Unfortunately the driveshaft is stuck (I'm assuming the splines are corroded?) and no matter what I do I can't get it out. The wear ring has pulled out from the transom plate about half an inch to an inch, and is completely clear (i.e. the only thing left holding on is the splines).

    Not sure what my next step is? Am I going to have to pull the motor and replace the driveshaft, the bearing on the midwall, and the intermediate shaft?

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!


  2. #2
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    If you have some wooden wedges you can tap them in the gap, you will have to remove the ride plate if you haven't all ready done so. if it doesn't come loose you can tap on the side of the intermediate shaft just not hard enough to damage it. you can also try removing the intake grate and using the spray tube try to spray penetrating oil in the splines.

  3. #3
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    you can split/cut the driveshaft hose inside the hull to get better access to the spline joint

  4. #4
    Goliath's Avatar
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    Ride plate is off and I had wedges in place overnight... No dice. The hose has also been cut and I've elevated the back of the ski so the lubricant flows easier.

    I think I'm going to get some metal wedges; The wooden ones seem to be collapsing... And I haven't tried tapping the intermediate shaft. I'll try that too...

    Thanks for the replies!

  5. #5
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    the biggest problem is that if indeed the splines are siezed, you are pulling on the rubber portion of the I shaft when trying to remove the pump... put some wedges in there and let it sit for a day or so with lubricant... if it doesnt break free, you may have to cut the driveshaft to get it all apart

  6. #6
    Goliath's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WFO View Post
    if it doesnt break free, you may have to cut the driveshaft to get it all apart
    That's what I was afraid of... In that case I have to pull the entire motor and replace the intermediate shaft and the coupler mounted on the midwall?

    How much am I looking at for a pump with drive shaft (I obviously already have a brand new impeller and wear ring), intermediate shaft, and coupler? At this point I think I might as well replace the pump too (it has pretty nasty looking cavitation burn on 4 of the 5 veins), right?

    Is it extremely difficult pulling the motor (or putting it back in)?

  7. #7
    ...just another thought, if there was a way you could heat the shaft close enough to the spine with the proper precautionary measures, it might be worth trying. I was thinking maybe applying heat shield tape to under the pump tunnel intake grate and heating the shaft there. (Don't forget to use a dead-blow hammer when you're hammering that stuff too.)

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  9. #9
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goliath View Post
    That's what I was afraid of... In that case I have to pull the entire motor and replace the intermediate shaft and the coupler mounted on the midwall?

    How much am I looking at for a pump with drive shaft (I obviously already have a brand new impeller and wear ring), intermediate shaft, and coupler? At this point I think I might as well replace the pump too (it has pretty nasty looking cavitation burn on 4 of the 5 veins), right?

    Is it extremely difficult pulling the motor (or putting it back in)?
    you can remove the stinger, and the bolts from the mounts, and slide the motor forward to remove the I shaft

    also there are plenty of used pumps and I shafts out there, but you may not have to replace the whole pump and I shaft... you can get a use driveshaft and rebuild the pump, and same for the I shaft as well, depending what parts you need

  10. #10
    Goliath's Avatar
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    I think a made a little bit of progress tonight... I got metal wedges and put those in the pump, but the mid wall just flexed. I braced the wall, and the pump came out a little more than it has been, but still didn't budge.

    My brother used a crowbar to pry at the pump while I watched the mid wall, and I heard a thud. My brother said the crowbar slipped, but still, the splines didn't break free. We used the crowbar a little more and heard a couple more thuds... I'm assuming the thuds were the splines slipping in the coupler.

    The wedges are still in place, and I'm hoping the tension will help pull the splines free overnight.

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