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  1. #1

    Testing a CDI in a Polaris SL700

    Please help!! I got water in my electronic box and pretty sure the CDI is bad. How can you test the CDI in a 1996 Polaris SL700 to determined if it is bad.

    Thanks


  2. #2
    You can't test a CDI! but you can test all other components! Z

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Hi Grover, Welcome to the Green Hulk Forums!!!

    Is there rust in the box at the bottom of the board?
    Her's a link to our tech section, have a read and see what question(s) you might have for us. Post numer 1 has a great intro to the ignition system and post two has the stator testing procedure, I brough the fiirst post to you, happy reading and again WELCOME!!

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15437

    Courtesy 4strokepolaris:
    PVL IGNTIONS EXPLAINED
    By Jason Lorenz(Jay)

    The ignition that you have in your boat is a PVL that is made in Germany. It is one of the best performance ignitions out there for most power sports applications. It is a true digital ignition. Polaris has always been a performance oriented company always trying to lead the industry in all it has produced. That being said, they contacted PVL ignitions to make them a system for their watercraft. The first system was used in a production boat in 1996 on the hurricanes, sl/slt 700, SL 900, sltx 1050. These first few years would be tough and needed some revised parts. There are a few ways to identify your current PVL ignition in your machine.


    First is the CDI. This is your black box that is in your electrical box. It tells the coils when to fire and for how long to saturate the primary side of the ignition coil. It can be one of three boxes. The first being the red podded (color of epoxy where the wires come out) box with a com port. This was found on very early boats and if you have one in your boat you should upgrade when you get the chance. It will fail you sometime in its life. The second generation box is red podded with a com port nest to where the wires come out. This is programable/adjustable. Better but not the best. The third is the current black podded with a com port this is the best cdi ever produced. These rarely have any problems. This is the toughest part of the ignition system. Over the years, I have had only 6 bad boxes that are black podded. Most of them were other than spark problems (won't crank over, will not hold a steady timing degree, etc...)

    Stators are the weakest link in this system. They fail often. The latest version is the best version and the life out of one of these is great. The earlier stators did some crazy things. Early stators are easily identified by the plug ends and the white insulation around the trigger coils. If you have one of these, better get a new one, It will fail you soon. They do things like limit a boat to 3000-4000 rpm, no spark, jump timing, drain batteries etc... Stators currently have four versions. There is a twin with an 8 pin plug and one with multi-connectors. Same with the triples one with an 8 pin plug and one with multi-connectors. You can use either twin or any twin and either triples on any triple. Difference is that plug. Now here is the nice part. If you have a stator with a multi plug you can get yourself an adapter that allows you to use the 8 pin stator and it makes for a faster job.
    You just plug in all your connections in the box and the connector stays outside the box. This leaves you with a nice, easy engine removal and stator changes. Now you can only use this stator if you have upgraded your ignition system because the wiring is different. The nice thing is that you can just order a stator for a newer boat and not waste the money on the stuff you don't need. Below are the part numbers for the connectors.
    When you use these connectors you must order this stator. 4010170 triple, 4010172 twins. Connectors come with the rubber packing in them for the electrical box. Like I said, you had to have upgraded the ignition before. If you are not sure if you have an upgraded ignition check the stator as mentioned above also check the cdi as well also mention in above paragraph.
    What makes the stators go bad you ask? Well here it is as I have found through the years: BVS-battery voltage spike(charging battery when in craft with too high an amperage charger, not having the battery isolated(disconnected), jump starting craft with a car running or jump box, battery connection arcing from loose connections(grounds, post connections)pour grounding of stator (i.e. corrosion/early stator poor design), over revving engine (spinning a modded engine over 7600 rpm they will not last long at all) they lose the ability to ground properly/dissipate heat and a lot of heat(heat makes the resistance higher and makes it hard to get a good ground) making a lot of heat is from the electricity made from the stator and cannot dissipate the heat fast enough through the aluminum stator plate and flywheel housing(this is why the fuel injected models with the big stators need to run water through the front housing to cool off the aluminum so that the stator does not burn up). this mod can be done easily and pretty cheap(depending on you model of boat). I do it all the time to modded boats and it works very well. these are the most common causes of failure. Of course you have the it just plain went bad. Most of you reading this are like [email protected]#n I did that. It's ok life is a lesson and every day we learn something new. I know I learn everyday!

    Coils are tough units. As in all applications, PWC, ATV, Motorcycles & Cars, these rarely fail. There are a few times when they do, but, itís not usually the case. The triples do not get an updated coil when getting an ignition upgrade kit. I think I have seen maybe 5 bad coils in Polaris pvl ignitions for the triples. There is a newer version of the coils red podded being older and black podded newer version with sockets for the high tension leads (spark plug wires). Both are very good units. The 700 twins got new coils/wires with there kits. This was needed for the 700's. The newer version has sockets for the high tension leads and has wings to lie in the electrical box.

    Ok, so know you are armed with the major components of this system. There are a few other things in it but that will be for later. So letís start!!!!!!

    You have no spark!

    Grab a multi-meter (if you don't have one you can get them anywhere starting about 30.00 and will help you out in the long run with many things on your pwc.

    Do you have a good battery? Must be fully charged and be at least 10.6 vdc while cranking your unit (measured at battery). A bad battery will drive even the best techs nuts. Charge and load check them when you have a no spark condition. Make sure they have fluid in them or they will die like us. . Usually you will see a spark when you let off the start button if the battery is weak

  4. #4
    Watcon's Avatar
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    CDI test

    I will test any TWIN CDI for $35.00. Triples are $50.00, and I gaurentee my test results.
    Thanks,
    Randy

  5. #5
    Watcon's Avatar
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    CDI test

    I will test any TWIN CDI for $35.00. Triples are $50.00, and I warrenty my test results.
    Thanks,
    Randy

  6. #6
    john zigler's Avatar
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    i have a good CDI from a 99 SLTH 700 if you need one.

    zig

  7. #7
    bigum100's Avatar
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    99 sl 700 need stator update kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Watcon View Post
    I will test any TWIN CDI for $35.00. Triples are $50.00, and I gaurentee my test results.
    Thanks,
    Randy
    anybody have a new 1999 sl700 electric update kit yet?

  8. #8
    David Drkvampire2001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigum100 View Post
    anybody have a new 1999 sl700 electric update kit yet?
    Yea I do

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