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  1. #1

    Will Heat Gun damage nano/fiberglass hull and question on tunnel reinforcement ?

    This may be stupid question, but I have a fx sho that I want to put pre fab tunnel reinforcement. When using a heat gun to remove the glue, isn't there risk of damaging the resin used in the nano material...that is damaging/melting the hull? I am not mechanically inclined at all and plan to keep the ski totally stock. But I want to put prefab piece on for piece of mind. I plan to cut bottom of it off and just install it with marine tex without installing it under the shoe inserts. I just need to remove a huge glob of glue that is on top part of tunnel. Why they put such a huge glob there I don't know. I should think that installing prefab in this manner should be sufficient since I don't run offshore and keeping stock. I will put extra marine tex between side of prefab and side of shoes. I plan on doing it this way because much less work and I don't want to mess around taking plate and shoes apart, etc....even though I am sure it is easy. Thanks


  2. #2
    AWA MEMBER
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    I read these pump tunnel reinforcment threads and you need to use epoxy resin to install the reinforcment and need to grind down the nano cell down past the wax so it will adheare.......what you plan on doing in my opinion is a waste of time......if your gonna do a repair or reinforcment at least make sure it will hold perm. not somthing for show......heat gun shoulden't hurt material to remove adheasive

  3. #3

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    Try to point the heat gun mainly on the glue till it starts to smoke then move to other glue location wou want to remove it needs to smoke some to be sure you got the glue hot enough. Then the glue will pop right off. You can let the glue cool off a little befor you pop it off, heating it makes it's propertys change when it cools. Go ahead and remove the tie bars and do it the correct way!!!!!!! after you glue the cover piece in just go from the underside of the ski and then drill through the 4 bolt holes. This way the tunnel support is held in place b y the tie bars also. Not that hard to do. I have seen one done with marine tex it has worked good so far. I use a product called "six10 " from west systems a thickened epoxy it works great and won't start to set up for 40 min so yopu have plenty of time to set the cover in place and wipe off the excess that pushes out after you set the cover. Dries hard in 24 hours. Tommy Jordan

  4. #4

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    Here is a good link on a gpr tunnel instal just to give you a idea. How ever I would not use 5200 for glue. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49610 Tommy Jordan

  5. #5
    I have read too that epoxy doesn't stick to the nano hull because wax is embedded in the nano material and a chemical needs to be used to remove the wax from the pores before gluing in the prefab? Is this true? What chemical should be used?

  6. #6

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    sand inside cover support and tunnel real good with course sandpaper clean both cover and tunnel with acetone prior to glueing cover on, Epoxy WILL stick to nano hull if preped correctly. Tommy Jordan

  7. #7
    dhoad's Avatar
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    Tommy, thanks for the info on the west system six10. I will use it on my coco tunnel install.

  8. #8
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2fast4u View Post
    Try to point the heat gun mainly on the glue till it starts to smoke then move to other glue location wou want to remove it needs to smoke some to be sure you got the glue hot enough. Then the glue will pop right off. You can let the glue cool off a little befor you pop it off, heating it makes it's propertys change when it cools. Go ahead and remove the tie bars and do it the correct way!!!!!!! after you glue the cover piece in just go from the underside of the ski and then drill through the 4 bolt holes. This way the tunnel support is held in place b y the tie bars also. Not that hard to do. I have seen one done with marine tex it has worked good so far. I use a product called "six10 " from west systems a thickened epoxy it works great and won't start to set up for 40 min so yopu have plenty of time to set the cover in place and wipe off the excess that pushes out after you set the cover. Dries hard in 24 hours. Tommy Jordan
    Good info here!

    Although I can't tell you what affect heat has on the nano SMC hull material, I can tell you I've used this method many times on several skis & none of them ever had any issues down the road. I use the low setting on the gun so I can hold it close to the glue without getting everything around it as hot. Once the epoxy is hot, get under the ski, put a screwdriver in the bolt hole & give it a sharp wack with a mallet. 9 times out of 10 the epoxy will come out in one piece with the insert. I agree with the others. If you're gonna make the effort to install the reinforcement, take the extra time to do it the right way anchored under the inserts. The most time consuming part is grinding down the epoxy on the front of the tunnel until the reinforcement fits snug. Sanding down the hex shaped molds in the hull & grinding the inserts to clear the reinforcement is the easy part. I also agree with Tommy that 5200 is not the best adhesive for the job. IMO, it's not stiff enough once cured & will get even more flexible from the heat of the exhaust. Also, don't forget to replace the OEM bolts with longer ones. I posted info here on what length to use depending on which grate you are using:
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=142848

  9. #9
    By the way, what is the purpose for yamaha to put all that green glue on the top of tunnel and on the shoes. They just put a big glob in middle of the shoe which doesn't seem to serve any purpose since it is already sealed with the white sealant they use. After reinforcement is done should one put some epoxy around the shoes also?

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