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  1. #1

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    Angry Cracked cylinder case

    I've got a thread going on PWCToday.com but I wanted to cast a wider net and see if I can get some info here.

    I recently picked up two 1996 XPs on a double trailer for a really nice price from craigslist. With about 3-4 hours of work and recharging the almost new, USA made AGM batteries, I got both of the skis running. I hooked up the garden hose to one ski and it ran fine on the hose for a minute or two. I then hooked the garden hose to the next ski and started it. I then turned on the water and was shocked to see water pouring into the hull from under the head area .

    With a mirror and flashlight, I could see a big vertical crack right where the cylinder case meets the head. I restarted the engine and tuned on the water and could see water gushing out of that crack along with several other smaller ones.

    The previous two owners were Florida guys but our last two winters were brutally cold (for FL!) Temps in the mid 20's and lower were common. I'm assuming the cracks are from freezing but I didn't think that us PWC guys really had to worry about this. My two Yamis have done just fine.

    Have any of you experienced freeze cracked cylinders? I know this is a real problem with I/O boats. I have one and I drain the block and manifolds during my annual winterization.


  2. #2

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    There is a sticky at the top of this forum:

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75647

    I just read it and it does indeed look like antifreeze should be used in these Sea Doos. One of the previous owners of these skis didn't get the memo and now I've got to find another cylinder or two . What a shame. It has great compression and it sure does run good on the trailer.

  3. #3

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    This came right out of the Sea Doo Service Shop Manual, Section 2, subsection 04:

    In cool regions (where freezing point temperature may be encountered), cooling system should be filled with water and antifreeze solution.

  4. #4
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    it takes more than a couple nights below freezing to crack a block. if the ambient temp is above freezing in the day time and drops below freezing at night you shouldnt have problems. it takes several days of below freezing temps to damage a block. was this ski stored out side? that MAY do something depending on your winter temperatures. Jugs are cheap. get a new one and check the compression. ride it till it needs rebuilt

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by airbornexp View Post
    it takes more than a couple nights below freezing to crack a block. if the ambient temp is above freezing in the day time and drops below freezing at night you shouldnt have problems. it takes several days of below freezing temps to damage a block. was this ski stored out side? that MAY do something depending on your winter temperatures. Jugs are cheap. get a new one and check the compression. ride it till it needs rebuilt
    That's what I would have thought as well. I just purchased these skis last Thursday so I don't really know their history. I bought them from someone in Jacksonville who got them from someone in Palm Coast, FL a couple of years ago. The guy I bought them from claimed that he used the skis but there were no numbers or stickers on the hulls. He said that he used them in private lakes. There really is no saltwater corrosion so maybe he did.

    In any case, I don't know when the engine could have frozen and cracked. I've never had any engine freeze and crack on me. One of these cracks is gaping open. It's very visible. Its too bad since the compression is great and it sure was running sweet on the trailer.

  6. #6
    Electronics Guru Alpheus's Avatar
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    Last winter was record cold down there. The reman engine shops cooulnt keep up with the demand last spring with all the cracked blocks in the I/O boats...

  7. #7
    john zigler's Avatar
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    i have sea-doo engine parts here, if you need.

    cyls, cases, etc. get it a part, and see for sure, what you need.

  8. #8

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    Work is getting in the way of important stuff right now .

    On that other PWC website, it was recommended that I remove the engine and give the lower end a look since water may be in there now. My buddy (local) who is big into Sea Doos also recommended that I pull the engine.

    I'm thinking that engine removal will commence next weekend!
    Last edited by dannyual777; 02-05-2012 at 11:35 AM. Reason: added text

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyual777 View Post
    Work is getting in the way of important stuff right now .

    On that other PWC website, it was recommended that I remove the engine and give the lower end a look since water may be in there now. My buddy (local) who is big into Sea Doos also recommended that I pull the engine.

    I'm thinking that engine removal will commence next weekend!
    I'm starting to wonder why I really need to pull the entire engine. I'm no expert on these engines but I just don't understand how water would've entered the bottom half of my motor. Can someone educate me so that I know just exactly why I need to pull the entire engine? It just seems that it would be much more simple to pull the cracked jugs.

  10. #10
    maxadrenaline's Avatar
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    You may want to pull the jugs and then you can see what the crank halves look like and rod bearings, but if there is any rust at all...fix it. Besides, with the jugs off pulling the motor is not that big of a job. I use to do it by hand (no hoist) just muscle. Getting the cooling lines back onto the cylinders from under the exhaust pipe is the hardest part IMO. The rest is a piece of cake.

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