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  1. #1
    jb1300r's Avatar
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    R&D C1 wheel (can I just put it on and go ride?)

    I have been thinking about upgrading the to the C1 wheel from my stock wheel, but I would like to know if I just bolt it on and go or do I need anything else? Also would I need a blow off valve with this wheel and would my ski still be reliable for 100's of hours as I only have 14 hours on it now. Feed back is would be appreciated


  2. #2
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    just put it in and go but u prby hit rev limit, so may need to pitich up a deg. Boost limit will kick in somewhere to.
    I would do ecu first thing and remove the ribbion, That will take care of the prop pitch, boost limit, thing as rev will move up as power comes up,wish I had done it that way first myself. do r2 or r3. u gonna want that at least. Then your good for big intercooler any any wheel up to around 14 pds. That is a fantasic set up and runs strong all day long on 91.
    Number 1 thing for any sho motor is ecu. or you will be fighting ur self back and fourth, You got to have a foundation before u can build anything.

  3. #3
    mckma's Avatar
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    If you run the wheel by it self you will run into a ton of restrictions, back presure from the ic,, boost limiter rev limter but on a completly stock set up you might be ok on the rev limiter ,,I would skip the wheel for now and do a intake filter kit and a intake grate and a tommy free flow exhaust ,the grate will keep your rpms down,,, if your new to this start reading these forums before you do anything , you must have a service manual, torque wrenches and the proper sealant adhesives

    from the R&D web site::::
    The C1 Wheel Kit works excellent for recreational use applications retaining the OEM ignition, fuel system, injectors, and intercooler. R&D has data logged and documented the A.F.R. (air to fuel ratio) to be a conservative and safe 11.8-12.0 with the C1 wheel kit. R&D recommends that the R&D Power Core Intake Manifold and intercooler CFM kit or the R&D Stage 1 Intercooler Kit be used with the C1 wheel.

  4. #4
    AWA MEMBER
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    Quote Originally Posted by mckma View Post
    If you run the wheel by it self you will run into a ton of restrictions, back presure from the ic,, boost limiter rev limter but on a completly stock set up you might be ok on the rev limiter ,,I would skip the wheel for now and do a intake filter kit and a intake grate and a tommy free flow exhaust ,the grate will keep your rpms down,,, if your new to this start reading these forums before you do anything , you must have a service manual, torque wrenches and the proper sealant adhesives

    from the R&D web site::::
    The C1 Wheel Kit works excellent for recreational use applications retaining the OEM ignition, fuel system, injectors, and intercooler. R&D has data logged and documented the A.F.R. (air to fuel ratio) to be a conservative and safe 11.8-12.0 with the C1 wheel kit. R&D recommends that the R&D Power Core Intake Manifold and intercooler CFM kit or the R&D Stage 1 Intercooler Kit be used with the C1 wheel.


    I just picked up a C1 11 blade wheel on ebay for $113.00.......I have it to compliment my Vtech stage 2 reflash and my upgraded stock intercooler..........had to do it to keep up wit you guys this spring

  5. #5

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    I would do the stage 1 mods first. Intake, ribbon, exhaust, grate, etc. Then I would look into a new inter cooler or ref lash as my next mod. A wheel would be the last thing I do as you really need those other supporting mods to get the most out of the wheel.

    Have ridden a ski that has all of the above mods on a stock wheel and it was very fast and can't even be compared to a stock ski. You might be happy with a setup like that.

    This is the the route I am taking.

  6. #6
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    U should put an r a d rad or R and D intake great on the very first thing period< I would not even ride the boat without that period. it is a saftey issue period,and it will not affect the rpms one way or another again period.

  7. #7
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
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    You will probably be fine with the C1 wheel as these ski's come pretty rich from the factory. However, I would install an AFR gauge before installing the wheel. I did a wheel before the IC and if I had to do it again, I would do an IC first then the wheel.

    I put an R&D Grate, FF intake and exhaust, R1 reflash and a modded VX plate on my buddy's FZR and it goes 74 on the GPS with a stock prop. Only other thing we did was pull the foam so she could breathe. IMO, this is THE setup for recreational riding unless you want to spend more money and time wrenching installing parts and prop tuning.

  8. #8
    jb1300r's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies!

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