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  1. #1
    azsuptt's Avatar
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    Identifying Week Points Sugestions welcome!

    Well After This Weekend Scarry Moment with the Steering cable Nut braking and my Sky taking in water and not able to steer. I need some sugestions arround identifying SeaDoos week points if any other in order to do some preventive work. My Ski is sitting right now without the seat and seat base so I will prefer to do some preventive work while replacing the steering knot. I allready replaced the ceramic Wachers. Will be re-Installing the Steering Knot today with OEM until the better Works nut arrived.

    I will also be replacing the OEM clamps. Can someone pintpoint with a Picture Prefered wich ones tend to be week and should be worth replacing them right away with better stainlesteel clamps. I'm looking at priority places, Must be done Information

    For Example I found the following Hose to be a little suspicious, it have a S type or a Belly that might be indicating its weekening.
    That Leads me to another question?, How you identify a week hose?

    What I have done:
    1) Ceramic Wachers
    2) Some but not all OEM clamps replaced with Stainlessteel ( I need sugestiions on others that might represent danger if broken)
    3) ???

    Here is the Suspect Hose: Any info from the Pict, Is this normal? Only 25 Hours on an 05 RXP



  2. #2
    A smart admits!A wicked excuses!An idiot insists! mitsakosgt's Avatar
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    I need some sugestions arround identifying SeaDoos week points if any other in order to do some preventive work

    Here you are:
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2397

  3. #3
    tick.. tick.. RXPteamtimebomb's Avatar
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    That is a formed hose.. But check that 90 degree fitting underneath the plastic curved exit with water line, I just found mine was loose, from when it was built I'm guessing, it can't spin loose with the hose attached.. Could cause a leak, and think it did for me, just got mine in tight and sealed with 5200.. Pain in the butt without removing the complete exit from hull

  4. #4
    ADAMBOMB's Avatar
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    Install Two or even One Bilge pump if you dont already have one. Minimum 750 make sure to get some automatics. install them on there own separate wires and fuses along with ON-off-on switches..

  5. #5
    azsuptt's Avatar
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    #2 mitsakosgt,

    Very good Info, I read it before but unfortunetly not 100% familiar with some of the terminology, Thats why I need some pictures.
    base on the above Information I will try this, any diagram or pictures that show where they are.(I will try to look for them here later on )

    Looking For Pictures of the Bold Marked Parts:
    3- Add clamps or stainless-tabbed zip-tyes to your bailer tube check valves, the gray ones inside the rear area of your hull. (All)
    4- Make 110% sure the bailer tubes themselves are securely inserted in the venturi.
    5- Secure your bailer hose plastic 90 degree elbows up high in the hull. NEVER allow them to lay low in the hull or water will injest instead of remove.
    6 Replace the spring clamps at the heat exchanger plate spigots with high quality hose clamps.
    16- Replace the Exit Exhaust Hose with a quality metal tube designed to handle water and not rust or corrode.

  6. #6
    A smart admits!A wicked excuses!An idiot insists! mitsakosgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by azsuptt View Post
    #2 mitsakosgt,

    Very good Info, I read it before but unfortunetly not 100% familiar with some of the terminology, Thats why I need some pictures.
    base on the above Information I will try this, any diagram or pictures that show where they are.(I will try to look for them here later on )

    Looking For Pictures of the Bold Marked Parts:
    3- Add clamps or stainless-tabbed zip-tyes to your bailer tube check valves, the gray ones inside the rear area of your hull. (All)
    4- Make 110% sure the bailer tubes themselves are securely inserted in the venturi.
    5- Secure your bailer hose plastic 90 degree elbows up high in the hull. NEVER allow them to lay low in the hull or water will injest instead of remove.
    6 Replace the spring clamps at the heat exchanger plate spigots with high quality hose clamps.
    16- Replace the Exit Exhaust Hose with a quality metal tube designed to handle water and not rust or corrode.
    Ok here are the pics you ask for:
    The grey valves are the bailer tube valves
    The yellow 90 degree are the the elbows that must be high up in the hull
    Those two nipples are where the bailer tubes inserted(they are behind the vts assy)
    Those are the spring clamps of the OEM heat exchahger

    Hope this helps!
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  7. #7
    azsuptt's Avatar
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    Dude, I really really Appreciate you taking the Time to post the Pictures,
    A picture is worth a 1000 words.

    Will defenetly install a Bilge pump right away.

    Again thanks for the Info

  8. #8
    A smart admits!A wicked excuses!An idiot insists! mitsakosgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by azsuptt View Post
    Dude, I really really Appreciate you taking the Time to post the Pictures,
    A picture is worth a 1000 words.

    Will defenetly install a Bilge pump right away.

    Again thanks for the Info
    Anytime dude!!!If I can help why not to do it?

  9. #9
    azsuptt's Avatar
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    You usually eliminate the Bailers if you put an aftermarket Beilge?, seems the where removed

  10. #10
    azsuptt's Avatar
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    All clamps done!, bielge 95% still trying to get the black box out of the hull(under steering) in order to install the on/off switch. Anyone knows how to get those clips off?

    If my dremel works for at least a minutE this will be a breeze, otherwise improvisinv. With manual saw or drill

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