Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 82
  1. #1
    nicjak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Warragul, Downunder
    Posts
    7,794
    +1
    625

    bilge install on 300x

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	04072011268.jpg 
Views:	125 
Size:	69.1 KB 
ID:	265337Click image for larger version. 

Name:	03072011266.jpg 
Views:	87 
Size:	84.2 KB 
ID:	265338Click image for larger version. 

Name:	03072011265.jpg 
Views:	80 
Size:	96.4 KB 
ID:	265339Click image for larger version. 

Name:	04072011269.jpg 
Views:	84 
Size:	58.2 KB 
ID:	265340Click image for larger version. 

Name:	03072011264.jpg 
Views:	101 
Size:	80.7 KB 
ID:	265341


    auto bilge install on 300x, mounted 500gph bilge at rear of old RHS water box support base with fabricated stainless bracket, 3/4" outlet teed to two 1/2" outlets at rear quarters of ski, 3 position auto switch mounted in glovebox sealed with silicon paint.


  2. #2
    nicjak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Warragul, Downunder
    Posts
    7,794
    +1
    625
    more than likely its a double thread as i seem to remember doing it in another kawa section

    yep here it is
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=155874

  3. #3
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    47
    very nice mr nicjack this is like a really must have on these skis after what i experience, kawasaki should do a recall on those oil cooler hoses.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    UNITED KINGDOM / ENGLAND
    Posts
    43
    Me too those soft thin walled cooler hoses suck i replaced mine straight away before using my new 2012

  5. #5
    What did you replace them with?

  6. #6
    nicjak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Warragul, Downunder
    Posts
    7,794
    +1
    625
    1/2" id silicon hose for the oil cooler hoses

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Homer, AK, D.F., MEX., Now San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    1,420
    +1
    154
    Nice, clean, professional work contrasts with the not giving a crap blob of snot epoxy Kawasaki left there in pic ..68.
    Why the T? If you don't want a 3/4" outflow in the hull, the best would be to reduce at the pump to 1/2". A little custom work on a piece of ABS epoxied into the outflow of the pump will allow 1/2" line to be run the whole way (<4'?) to the hull fitting. The pump will almost make up for the decreased diameter by having less weight of head above the pump and less restriction at the 90 degree T. You would then leave only one place for a wire tie or whatever to get stuck - right in the pump. If you were concerned with weight, the setup you presently have will weigh about 5 pounds including the water that stays in the hose (with a check valve) or falls back into the hull. With a 1/2" line from pump to hull, it will weigh about two pounds.
    I can tell you want to do everything as well as it can be done. This one little aspect, having a 3/4" T into two 1/2" lines, is not good, IMHO. I love the switch mount and pump mount (I just stick my pump bases down in 5200 on a spot I rough up with 24 grit then wipe with a bit of MEK. The 5200 has to squish into the slots/holes of the base as it doesn't like to stick to that plastic well) - Keep up the good work!

  8. #8
    nicjak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Warragul, Downunder
    Posts
    7,794
    +1
    625
    i was never concerned of the weight!! im happy with it pushing out at 3/4" then to the two 1/2" hoses this allows no restrictions as i now have an effective 1" outlet. btw it is only there for emergency use and doubt it will ever get used as the oem bilge works just fine whilst you are moving never had any luck with glueing the bases, rough water would always pop them off no mater how roughed up the bases were, thats why i screwed it.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Homer, AK, D.F., MEX., Now San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    1,420
    +1
    154
    "pushing out at 3/4" then to the two 1/2" hoses this allows no restrictions as i now have an effective 1" outlet" Not so. I explained it to you, AND, you were asleep in math class. Two 1/2" hoses have half of the capacity of one 1" hose... less yet if you count frictional losses, especially at that T. In fact, two 1/2" hoses have less volumetric capacity than one 3/4" hose. You may be happy with it the way you did it but I will stand by reality for the sake of future readers. It will work the way you have it. I don't want to piss on your thread and the pretty work you've done, so I'll leave it like that. Good luck and have fun.

  10. #10
    nicjak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Warragul, Downunder
    Posts
    7,794
    +1
    625
    thanks once again for the advise, others can make there own mind up im happy and thats all that matters.

Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. How to improve speed accuracy after R&D Ride Plate installed on 2012 Ultra 300X?
    By Vincent in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 51
    Last Post: 07-30-2012, 04:35 AM
  2. Bilge pump install on iS models
    By gentletiger in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-03-2012, 12:40 PM
  3. GPS and Bilge install on Ultra 300x
    By nicjak in forum Kawasaki Tech Tips and Info
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 07-04-2011, 07:29 AM
  4. What location are people installing bilge pumps on X4 hulls?
    By caliburst in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 06-11-2009, 09:18 AM
  5. help me how to install bilge pump on gp1200r-02
    By uziwork in forum Yamaha How To & FAQs
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-04-2007, 10:01 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •