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  1. #1
    nabbs89's Avatar
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    GP1200R Reliability

    just bought a 2001 gp1200r and is stock as a rock, wanting a reliable ski as i do alot of surf riding, and i want it to handle later but right notjsut after a reliable ski...what do i need and where do i get it!?


  2. #2
    Goliath's Avatar
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    Read up on the safety mods for the GPR. Check out D plate installation, wave eater clips, pump tunnel reinforcement, and securing the oil lines/switching to premix. You might also want to seal the pump shoe. Not really a safety mod, but it helps a lot.


    I'll post some threads that will get you started a little later.

    Tunnel Reinforcement (2 routes):
    -Buy a pre-made fiberglass/carbon fiber mold and install it.
    -Buy a sheet of fiberglass/carbon fiber and cut layers using this template (See post #'s 3 & 4). Then fiberglassing it yourself with this process.

    D-Plate:
    -Here's a step-by-step for the stinger removal. Once you get the stinger off, it's a couple bolts, some copper spray-a-gasket, and you're done!

    Seal the Pump Shoe (2 routes):
    -You can buy the Pump Plug Kit and install it.
    -You can buy a two part resin. It takes a little bit longer, but it is more cost effective. Process. (See second half of post #14)

  3. #3
    Almost's Avatar
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    Definitely get wave eaters since you plan on jumping it before you drop a PV in the cylinder. You might want to consider getting flame arresters, accelerator pump delete and re-jeting to get rid of the midway lean. Also change your fuel filter and always run good fuel. Ethanol is killer on these carbed motors, If you have any inkling that the fuel will be in the tank for more then 3 weeks I would pump it out and get a couple gallons of good airplane fuel from a local airport because it has no ethanol and run it. Be aware of using fuel stabilizers they are snake oil with alcohol so you are only boosting octane and running LEAN.

  4. #4
    Goliath's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Almost View Post
    Be aware of using fuel stabilizers they are snake oil with alcohol so you are only boosting octane and running LEAN.
    Any sources for this? That's new information to me... From what I understand, leaving a tank with no fuel in it for extended periods of time is bad. It can lead to dry rotting, moisture build-up, and rust within the system.

    I always get gas without ethanol (There's a list of stations for every state here) and put some sta-bil in it. I haven't had any problems in four years, but I could be doing something wrong.

  5. #5
    Almost's Avatar
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    http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forum...your-rush.html
    Edit: Very good read just very lengthy. Pg 33 has a summary.

    I didn't say leave it dry I said to pump it out and put airplane fuel in just a couple gallons. Airplane fuel will last for 5 years untreated. That site is a little out dated every blend of pump gas in the USA has ethanol now. New Jersey has none. Unless is race fuel at select stations or race tracks. You having no problems has just has just been luck. Very few stabilizers prevent phase separation. So no mater what you put in the tank the first time you start your engine with old fuel you are burning strait water/alcohol.

  6. #6
    what about the stabil that is exactly for ethanol?

  7. #7
    Almost's Avatar
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    If you read just go through the tread you will find out you are being shamed. Yes they protect gas a little longer but they do NOT remove water or prevent phase separation. Plus you are just adding more alcohol to your tank. So instead of that E10-15 you just put in you are now running something much higher. If you don't know to compensate by mixing more oil you are going to run lean. Plus you still sucked up strait water and alcohol in the spring because again it does not stop phase seperation. Yes you can go hunt down the few products that do work and pay whatever they cost. To me personally I rather just pump it out and pour some good airplane fuel in. Yeah 3 gallons might cost me 20 bucks but so would some snake oil and pump gas so its all naught.

  8. #8
    Crash Test Dummy Smitty's Avatar
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    One forgotten protip about wavejumping; the GPR seat latch has a habit of not locking fully. People have been known to lose the seat during a jump with disastrous consequences, there is no faster way to sink a ski. Use tie wraps or a mini bungie to make sure the latch stays firmly down in the latched position. Very cheap but effective insurance.

  9. #9
    Julian's Avatar
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    Said many times: Check your powervalves! install wave-eater clips.
    Wave-eater now has new couplers to get rid of the slop between cylinders/power valves
    Good luck!

  10. #10
    Almost's Avatar
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    For the seat latch I drilled 4 holes across mine to let water pass through. I guess you could just cut the latch shorter to if you wanted. I just didn't want to make it harder to get my seat off in a hurry.

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