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  1. #1
    shawndak07's Avatar
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    97' 700 engine in a 2004 freedom?

    Hey I am looking to replace a Polaris 700cc motor with an older model engine. What steps do you think will be needed to be done. It looks like i should be able to bolt on my entire magneto and magneto casing per images and part numbers online. Other than changing the electrical on the engine would everything be good to go?

    Here is a small list I made comparing a 97' slt700 to a 04' polaris freedom:
    Pistons same. Rings different?Rods the same
    Pipes are different but fit.
    Crankshafts are the same. Woodruff key same
    Stator same, prop diff. (not too worried)
    Reeds are same.
    Magneto do not match. Housing is same.
    Starters are the same.

    I want to use my single carb as well on the older engine. (easier to tune/adjust) I also heard thatt the older engine ran at 6350rpm while the new ones are at 6700rpm?? Due to the exhaust and electrical/cdi? Thus saying if i put my electrical and pipe on will I see the 6700rpm?

    Thankyou.
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  2. #2
    casey67's Avatar
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    Correct,the 97 ran at 6350rpm. I'm pretty sure it's because of the exhaust and 5131081 cylinders.
    I used a later model pipe,6700 CDI on a 96 and only saw 6600 and my speed was down (with a short pump)
    The 96/97 also had pretty low compression heads-would affect accel,not top speed.

    I would ask what cyl part # is on that engine. It appears to have later model carbs (97 should have accel pump-I don't see the squirters in pic)

    The cyl nut-right side of left cyl- is a later model accorn nut, appears the cyl was off at some time.

    The 2000 and newer stator/housing used a "D' shaped wire grommet,use the 04 housing,worth while to replace the front seal while it is off.

  3. #3
    shawndak07's Avatar
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    Thank you casey67, the person that is selling the engine says there is 120/120 psi give or take in both cylinders. Would it be worth while to upgrade the pistons and rings since you did state they were low compression heads? How come your rpms increased but your speed was down? Is there anything else i should ask the person who is selling the engine the would be extremly crucial? All in all this would work fine in my 04' freedom?

    Thank you very much!

    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    Correct,the 97 ran at 6350rpm. I'm pretty sure it's because of the exhaust and 5131081 cylinders.
    I used a later model pipe,6700 CDI on a 96 and only saw 6600 and my speed was down (with a short pump)
    The 96/97 also had pretty low compression heads-would affect accel,not top speed.

    I would ask what cyl part # is on that engine. It appears to have later model carbs (97 should have accel pump-I don't see the squirters in pic)

    The cyl nut-right side of left cyl- is a later model accorn nut, appears the cyl was off at some time.

    The 2000 and newer stator/housing used a "D' shaped wire grommet,use the 04 housing,worth while to replace the front seal while it is off.

  4. #4
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    I think the earlier 700s used different cylinders with different porting as well as a different ignition timing curve. What is the issue you are having with your current engine????

  5. #5
    shawndak07's Avatar
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    The crankshaft locked onto the piston rod, like welded together from the previous owner. Id rather swap a working engine in than new pistons, crank, rods ect... I believe ignition timing would be unaffected with any magneto/stator since it would activate at the correct time since the crank is the same.

    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    I think the earlier 700s used different cylinders with different porting as well as a different ignition timing curve. What is the issue you are having with your current engine????

  6. #6
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    I did a full rebuild on my 700 for around 600 bucks. Brand new engine when I was all done.....

  7. #7
    shawndak07's Avatar
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    Nice! Do you need any special tools for putting in a crank and bearings? Both jugs look good so i dont think i would need it bored. I would only need to replace 1 piston but would probably do both. So in reality i could most definatly rebuild it im just worried about putting all that money in and then still not having a running engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    I did a full rebuild on my 700 for around 600 bucks. Brand new engine when I was all done.....

  8. #8
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawndak07 View Post
    Thank you casey67, the person that is selling the engine says there is 120/120 psi give or take in both cylinders. Would it be worth while to upgrade the pistons and rings since you did state they were low compression heads? How come your rpms increased but your speed was down? Is there anything else i should ask the person who is selling the engine the would be extremly crucial? All in all this would work fine in my 04' freedom?

    Thank you very much!
    My point was cylinder # will determine how well it will work.
    If your cylinders are still good you could go that route,but the used engine is worth less if all you need is the bottom end.

    The heads simply bolt on above the cylinder-if in fact it still has 97 heads.

    Comparing my speed/set up to an '01 SLH.If I increased prop for speed,my rpm's would come down further-meaning the set up wasn't working as hoped.(cylinders were holding it back)

  9. #9
    shawndak07's Avatar
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    Okay I gotchya, well the engine I have the crank is completely locked up and one piston lookes like someone hit it 5-6 times with a flat head??
    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    My point was cylinder # will determine how well it will work.
    If your cylinders are still good you could go that route,but the used engine is worth less if all you need is the bottom end.

    The heads simply bolt on above the cylinder-if in fact it still has 97 heads.

    Comparing my speed/set up to an '01 SLH.If I increased prop for speed,my rpm's would come down further-meaning the set up wasn't working as hoped.(cylinders were holding it back)

  10. #10
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    Crank just drops in as an assembly. Take your crank out, send it off to a rebuilder and put it back in good as new when you get it back

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