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  1. #1
    jlfx car audio's Avatar
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    honda R/F 12x upgrade options that WORK!

    Whats up guys . Been wrenching on my 04r12x all winter and last summer also and im finaly done all (within reason) to this tank...
    Last summer i bought my ski with 54 hrs on it all stock
    Didnt have it 2weeks before i wanted to upgrade it . Started playing with homemade bleed off valves to up boost with great luck but it killed holeshot because it had more lag since it was bleeding boost from 2 different points but top speed went from stock 62 to 64-65 with stock prop. I had about $20 invested . And in hotter weather/water it would heat soak and slow down to 58-60 untill intake temps came back to earth.
    So this brought in part 2 i got with h2o extreme ,which i advise against after the fact, and got a stg 2 kit with large IC all necessary plumbing and MOST of the clamps but not all..... i got the stainless steel strait pipe (i love it but its loud! ) this thing is heavy it could be made 1/2 as heavy as it is and would be much better but it works .... i got his electronic "tcp lock" ( DO NOT GET this bs part its a waste of money $200!!!) I could never get it to keep from throwing a code#45 even opened it up and adjusted the settings which didnt help. I also got his moded plentom its made well and im sure it flows better with its large 2.5" opeaning over the stock 1.75" inlet.
    Also had to get a turbosmart mbc1 (which is a bleeder style manual boost controler) this is a mjst have unless u use the mac boost module but can be used with it also. ) then i contacted impros and got a solus 17/29 prop
    So after all this i only gained 1.3 mph from my $20 rig!! It did have much better holeshot and could run 66 all day ... or untill it went into limp mode because of it throwing a FI code #45 because his tcp lock didnt work correctly
    So lets recap the $
    Ic kit $650+-
    Exhaust $350+-
    Tcp lock $200
    Large plentom $100+-
    Mbc1 $75
    Solus $225
    Auto meter boost gauge $75+-
    K/N air filter and some 2" rubber fittings from lowes $50 total
    Total of $$1725 to gain 4mph!!!! This is nutzzzzz.

    Over the winter i did alot of reading/ studing/ calling tuners and have came to the conclusion i needed to check my fuel to air ratio which i always wanted to check but didnt ...lol
    So i installed a innovate wide band o2 sensor and gauge ($210 shipped+ $25 to have shop weld a nut to exhaust after i cut the holes in the pipe ( it was double walled u have to remember)
    Fyi a turbo engine never needs to run any leaner than 12:1 air:fuel ratio any higher and it could possibly pop a piston. I said its possible not definately. Lol
    Also i decided to buy a new "tcp lock " which is actualy called a fuel cut defender , from turbosmart (fdc2) $154shipped) it was i little more trouble to install but worth every second it took . I could have just got a mackboost module for what i paid for both of these. ...but im definately happy with the fdc2 tho it is a nice piece.
    Also installed a adjustabke fuel pressure regulator just incase i found the f/a ratio to be off.....

    I went out for the first time last month to see where it stands . I set the mbc to 12ish psi and went for a strole on the lake (which was 45deg watter 60deg air temps) so i could set the fdc2 to clamp the correct voltage before the ecu triggered a fi code. Monitered the f/a reading and all were well .. it was a lil on the rich side down low to just about 8psi of boost 5700rpm 11:1 ish and by 12psi it was just about perfect 11.6-12.3:1 @6300 rmp the water temps were allowing for the 200 extra rpms not my upgrades i assure u lol.
    Ok now to up the boost to 14-15... turn the knob on the mbc and punch it. At 14psi i was on the limiter6500+ and i now have learned if ur on the limiter ur running lean 13.5-14.5 is the reading im getting im attributing this to the ecu cutting fuel and spark to bring rpms down and sensor is reading the extra unburnt oxygen flowing thru the engine... well i decided to put ski back on the trailer and try to rev it wile still in the water . It worked the added resistance of having to pull water into the pump kept the rpms off limiter thru 16 psi
    So it 14psi it is on the verge of being lean (12.1-12.5) but with a few extra psi of fuel i got it back down to 12:1 (my stock fuel pressure is 43 and i took it to 48 psi at idle) ok now to run 16 psi ... yea its lean 12.8-13.2 and i been running this all last summer ?!? Good thing honda used great parts in the motor. I tried upping the fuel pressure to 55 but only droped it to 12.6-13.0 better but not so much...
    Well in the past 2 weeks i been studying methanol injection and its pros/ cons .
    I found alot out from some realy nice and interesting people that build turbo cars they were all realy interested in how my ski turns out ... so i got in contact with coolingmist.com to get my meth kit .
    Its a vcs2 stg2 kit $500+- and opted for the aluminum casing +$70 i built my own tank to go into waterbox location to keep the weight in the back of ski . And to keep my compartment in front.
    I so wish i would have done this kit first thing i have learned . I wouldnt have had to buy ic,exhaust or plentom which would have saved me $1100+- .... not only does it cool the air big time but it also richens up the f/a ratio ! Not to mention the pimp controler/boost gause it comes with . Will show pics soon. So now i have ran up to 18psi (different prop to keep of limiter) and still able to keep ski running 12.1-12.5:1 at stock fuel pressure its a tad lean but i think the honda can handle it.
    So if i was to do everything again from scratch i would have ;
    Vcs2 meth kit $500-570
    $30 for a tank ( would need at least a 1 gal tank for up front somewhere )
    Turbosmart fcd2 fuel cut defender $150+-
    Turbosmart mbc $75
    Send stock prop to impros to repitch to ABOUT 16/31 $100+- after shipping 2ways
    Total $825-900 total!!! And would have a 68-69mph ski
    Now the methanol i used was -38deg winshield washer fluid from autozone.3.49 a gal (2 gal a tank of fuel give or take how its tuned.)
    Just thought i would share my findings with everyone and allow u to make ur own conclusions from my mastakes. Thanks for reading try to keep all negative comments to a minimum. Lol


  2. #2
    jlfx car audio's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Orlando Shark's Avatar
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    If you are running Meth injection you would want to be aorund 10:1 when it is being injected. Meth has a stoich of around 7:1 and gas is 14.7:1.

    Thank you for being one of the bright ones on the Honda side and have decided to install an Oxygen sensor. I know of many which I have also warned to get an Oxygen sensor that ride around at 13.0+ at WOT and then complain when their motor blows up. Some people just don't want to listen.

  4. #4
    Good thread, very in depth. I noticed your top end speed is impressive, but how is acceleration and holeshot? Id be fine with a ~65mph top speed if i can get more acceleration.

  5. #5
    jlfx car audio's Avatar
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    Its awesome will out launch a 70+ mph heavily modded gpr built for holeshot

  6. #6
    thats what i wanted to hear! I was looking at the snow performance and coolingmist websites. You said your kit was around 500 (im assuming thats because it came with the controller). How well do you think their cheaper kits (~300) will work? Just set it to come on at the desired boost and not worry about it.
    And how hard was it to modify the exhaust to accept the O2 sensor? Ive never worked with water jacketed pipes before but am decent with fabrication and welding so i might tackle that.

  7. #7
    jlfx car audio's Avatar
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    Well if u set it ro come on at 13-14psi u should be good. But could use more meth since the pump will be either on or off. Mine is provressive and i have it to turn on (10%flow) at 10psi and spray (100%flow) at 22psi this settng kept my 12.1-12.6 a/f all the way hp to 16.2psi of boost

  8. #8
    jlfx car audio's Avatar
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    as far as the o2 install . The factory exhaust is aluminum so before u start cutting make sure u can find a aluminum bung fir the sensor . But i cau a 1.5" hole in outer jackst and a 3/4" hole in inner pipe . Then bent the outer layer down to inner wall and welded up the seam. Then welded the bung in.

  9. #9
    Thanks for that info, sounds simple enough. I will look for a sensor and aluminum bung.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
    Its awesome will out launch a 70+ mph heavily modded gpr built for holeshot



    Yea.......you avatar is going to do you well here also............LOVE IT

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