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  1. #1

    05 RXP still overheating - I'm lost

    Okay, in my recent, previous thread I mentioned that I found a small but steady leak in my rideplate. It turns out that its only leaking from one screw that has simply lost a decent seal from the adhesive around its threads. Also, the plate has been oozing a slight, additional leak from the rearward mating surfaces of the top and lower plates. No big deal.
    With that, I thought those leaks were causing me to run low on coolant (which they were) and then my sudden overheat alarm last weekend.

    I took the ski out 3 times since then to confirm that it was ONLY a minor rideplate leak causing me to overheat. The first 2 trips earlier this week lead me to believe that it was only the rideplate....because I never got it to overheat on those trips as long as I wasnt riding long enough to run totally low on coolant.

    1st trip)
    Wind was horrific and water was complete shit. I toughed it out just to see how fast the leak was and to see if the engine would overheat regardless of any coolant leak. I ran it for about 45min and the coolant was a steady but slow leak, but not near low enough to cause any overheating. Although the top end performance felt a little "soft". Ran out of fuel and patience with the wind, so I was done on that trip.

    2nd trip)
    Saturday I took it out (2nd of the 3 trips this week since the first time overheating) to further watch it, and reconfirm overheating + the "soft" top-end power before I swap out my rideplate, since thats my next project anyway. Sure enough, on this trip I noticed that Im not reaching my normal max RPMs (normal = 8150) and my speed is down roughly 2-2.5mph (can't break 76.5 no matter what).
    Im BARELY reaching 8100 occasionally....I'm mostly stuck in the high 7K's. The ski did NOT overheat on this trip - i rode for about an hour straight - same slow leak but still no overheating for any reason.

    3rd trip)
    Did some brain storming and hard thinking. I have no reason to understand why my ski is running "soft" up top. So, I took the pump out Sat night and I saw nothing unusual with the impeller or anything in the pump area.
    So, I took the ski out on it's 3rd trip since last week's initial overheating, to gather more symptoms and reconfirm the RPMs and speed etc.
    The ski ran hard as it did on Sat, but still hit the same exact numbers up top ---> only 7900-8100rpms and only 76.4mph. This ski has been dead-consistant for 1.5yrs and my normal numbers are an easily pegged 8150rpm @ 78.xx---80.
    On this 3rd trip out, I overheated after just 20min or so, and the coolant was still FULL. So, my coolant leak isn't what's causing the overheating. I pulled the seat, let it cool for 10min while dripping cold water from my glove on the motor to pull the internal temps down...started right back up and I gently cruised it about 1.5 miles back to the dock @ 4-5k rpms with the seat totally off and the coolant cap left open. Thankfully, I made it back with no overheating.

    *In summary, I do have 2 slow and insignificant leaks from my rideplate from just wear and tear. Im very positive that I can fix it by taking it apart and just resealing it. No concern to me at all.
    *But apparently, this slow leak isnt whats causing my engine to overheat. Thats twice overheating without actually being too low on coolant, and my top-end power has been low since this began last week - overheating or not.
    *My charger was just fully rebuilt by Jerry in Nov. with all the goodies.
    *My IC pipes are all snug and tight as usual.
    *No coolant leaking from overflow bottle and no coolant dripping in the hull.
    *Visually speaking, everything looks totally normal under the seat while running in or out of the water.
    *Compression was all good after the first overheat last week. Plugs looked as they were burning normally.

    Sorry for the long post. I just wanted it all to be clear in hopes of getting some realistic feedback on the provided details


  2. #2
    krouchchocolate's Avatar
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    What about the fittings on the jpipe. Maybe you need to enlarge them.

  3. #3
    mac_man_luke's Avatar
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    Problem with the closed loop water pump or thermo maybe?

    As for the speed issues, id bet it is something to do with the CMD box.

    Have you checked your slip since it was rebuilt?

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by krouchchocolate View Post
    What about the fittings on the jpipe. Maybe you need to enlarge them.
    Im not following you here. Enlarge the fittings?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by mac_man_luke View Post
    Problem with the closed loop water pump or thermo maybe?

    As for the speed issues, id bet it is something to do with the CMD box.

    Have you checked your slip since it was rebuilt?

    I do have the CDM box dancing around in the back of my head...just not familiar enough with the device yet to say if it can cause a heat issue. I was planning on contacting Keith about it tomorrow.

    I figured if the thermo was bad, then the cooling system wouldnt be cycling normal long enough to have 1 hour long rides with no overheating (?) Kind of the same line of thought towards the water pump (?). Usually, if those parts are out of whack, you'd get an overheated motor soon after normal running temps were initially achieved, no?

    I have not checked my slip....I never have before, so I still have to learn exactly how to do it (while mounted on the ski). However, Jerry cranked up the slip a tad more than normal for an X charger and said that I should be good to go for a while...hmmm.
    However, Im thinking that Im loosing speed/RPMs as a result of whatever is causing my overheating, no?

  6. #6
    mac_man_luke's Avatar
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    Maybe try a temperature gauge and see what is actually happening? maybe its just an electrical glitch?

  7. #7
    ou812's Avatar
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    Whats over heating? Motor or exhaust temp? The J pipe has 3 small holes on the end that goes to the water box and some will drill out those holes to the next size drill bit for more water flow. If it's the exhaust temp sensor thats going off then you might want to look into that. Or, what some of us do is either get another sensor and zip tie it to the fuel rail or wherever and plug into that instead of the sensor in the water box or remove the sensor from the box and tie it to the rail and then plug that hole in the box.

  8. #8
    Eric Ocman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ou812 View Post
    Whats over heating? Motor or exhaust temp? The J pipe has 3 small holes on the end that goes to the water box and some will drill out those holes to the next size drill bit for more water flow. If it's the exhaust temp sensor thats going off then you might want to look into that. Or, what some of us do is either get another sensor and zip tie it to the fuel rail or wherever and plug into that instead of the sensor in the water box or remove the sensor from the box and tie it to the rail and then plug that hole in the box.
    +1

  9. #9
    iron head's Avatar
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    intercooler starting to get plug

  10. #10
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Sean, I would start by pulling the J-pipe off, and verifing that the 3 holes in the end of the J-pipe weren't covered by the Black coupler from tightening the clamp down overtop of them. (There should be 3 clamps, and 1 could be in the wrong spot)

    The problems started after the pipe was put back in, and u stated that they installed it . It's pretty easy to pull, and check that part. Might as well start there...
    Run water thru it while its out, to check the 3 holes water flow.

    Also, U should learn to check your SC slip (very important) on chasing RPM issues. When rebuilt, they tend to have a "break in" period, then the slip gets lower than it was assembled with. Thats why Jerry set it a tad high when assembled, so it will drop to the "normal range" of slip after being broke in...

    Your wear ring could be worn
    slip could be low
    oil past the middle of the bends on the stick
    Prop wear, or bent slightly
    nosecone loose, or damaged on prop
    Temperature, or humidity on testing day
    Intercooler coated in oil (inside) or water passages getting plugged up with sand
    exhaust leak inside hull (sucking in exhaust gasses) try with seat off to see if RPMS come up

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