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  1. #1
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    Replacing the shaft seal on an '05 15F

    My S-O-L has water leaking into his hull. He put water into the hull and it leaked out the shaft seal. I purchased a Kawi manual that says "Remove the engine" before sliding out the driveshaft into the engine bay. Since our Honda's driveshaft easily slide out the rear [with the pump removed], does a Kawi 15F have to have the engine out to change the seal?

    His has been a great 'Ski and this is the first real problem with it after 260 hours.

    Thanks much,
    JR


  2. #2
    A lot of times that drive shaft seal leaks after a rope gets around the shaft.
    Raise the engine (by hoist) just enough to slide out the drive shaft forward.

  3. #3
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by meangreenman View Post
    A lot of times that drive shaft seal leaks after a rope gets around the shaft.
    Raise the engine (by hoist) just enough to slide out the drive shaft forward.
    Thanks much. He has never had a rope or fishing line get inside the pump, but the 'ski has 250 hours on it so he is not complaining. We will try the lift.
    JR

  4. #4
    RLACEMAN's Avatar
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    I had the driveshaft seal & bearing replaced in my 2006 15f, didn't feel I could do it, gave it to the dealer they removed engine for the job, make sure you have the ability to properly align the engine/driveshaft relationship, this is what caused the bad vibration in mine, which is why I was having the bearing changed.

  5. #5
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RLACEMAN View Post
    I had the driveshaft seal & bearing replaced in my 2006 15f, didn't feel I could do it, gave it to the dealer they removed engine for the job, make sure you have the ability to properly align the engine/driveshaft relationship, this is what caused the bad vibration in mine, which is why I was having the bearing changed.
    I have the lift, magnetic swing mount dial indicators and machinist's straight edges [we have to align semi-solid couplers at work with .004 tolerance] but since I am getting older/fatter, I am missing the "inititive" to do it. I have changed all of the shaft seals in my 3 Hondas but they are very easy, a one hour job. We are going to take it to Eric and let him do it.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by JRINJAX View Post
    since I am getting older/fatter, I am missing the "inititive" to do it.
    Kinda same here. As I get older, I can feel that I'm losing the desire or interest on working on my own toys or cars. BTW, engine to shaft alignment is important but you can't really go wrong too much because there is not much tolerance at the motor mounts. I've done 5 times (X-2, 1100 STX, 1100 D.I., 12F & 15F) and it was dead perfect alignment on the first try on all 5 times not needing any adjustment.

  7. #7
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by meangreenman View Post
    Kinda same here. As I get older, I can feel that I'm losing the desire or interest on working on my own toys or cars. BTW, engine to shaft alignment is important but you can't really go wrong too much because there is not much tolerance at the motor mounts. I've done 5 times (X-2, 1100 STX, 1100 D.I., 12F & 15F) and it was dead perfect alignment on the first try on all 5 times not needing any adjustment.
    Thanks Much. We are going to let Eric Cheek do it. I just received the Kawasaki parts and the single bearing is tiny compared to the double larger bearings in our Hondas.

  8. #8
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    We found out the shaft seal was not bad, but the rubber coating around the bearing holder had bubbled up with aluminum corrosion underneath [just like the shaft seals on my Hondas] and the water was comming in under the rubber coating.
    We also found that the exhaust manifold was almost corroded thru. We have had a couple more 12F and 15Fs corrode thru and all the cooling water is lost into the exhaust stream and it overheats /shuts down.

  9. #9
    RLACEMAN's Avatar
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    Are these salt water skis? Just curious with that much corrosion. Or something that happens with age, mine had alot of corrosion on the pump & ride plate when I bought it, but it was docked in a marina (fresh water) for the whole season.

  10. #10
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    His 15f is 95% freshwater and 5% salt [jumping breakers during hurricanes] but he flushes it immediately and maintains it very good. Even with 250 hours it looks brand new inside but the exhaust and cooling system [inside] is heavily corroded due to Kawi's poor choice of aluminum alloys. The cooling fittings have been retrofitted by Kawi from aluminum to brass due to them corroding thru [his was almost thru]. We ordered the new brass kit for it.
    I don't think Kawi ever intended this ski for any salt water.....

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