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  1. #1
    mgo7483's Avatar
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    Wrapping/Insulating the exhaust piping

    A month or so back everyone was talking about wrapping/insulating their intake, intercooler, and exhaust pipes. What advantages, if any, have you seen? What have been the long term results? Iím particularly interested in the results from wrapping the stainless steel exhaust pipe that is between the exhaust manifold and the waterbox. Iíd appreciate the feedback.


  2. #2
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    I wrapped that pipe, and the power pipe, and insulated I/C to TB. I get no heat fade anymore. I also have the RR thermostat, and since then I have run the intake into the upper storage comp. If you run the power pipe It should definately be done.

  3. #3
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    psycho... u running riva stage 2? a RR Intercooler? Have an ECU? ... nice speed #s u have there

  4. #4
    I believe it would be very benificial. One thing to take note of is the potential of trapped water under the wrap corroding the pipe.

  5. #5
    captain obvious Lurker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas
    I believe it would be very benificial. One thing to take note of is the potential of trapped water under the wrap corroding the pipe.
    which happens alot in the automotive world. Headers rust but 10X worse when wrapped.

  6. #6
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shibby1485
    psycho... u running riva stage 2? a RR Intercooler? Have an ECU? ... nice speed #s u have there
    shibby here are the
    mods I currently have=
    riva stage 1(open air,wedge,solas14/19,top loader grate)
    worx sponsons
    158deg rotax racing thermostat
    riva vortec sc impeller
    rotax racing intercooler,& PPG polished RR plumbing kit
    opas block offs
    PPG stainless power Pipe exhaust
    riva blow off valve
    irridum plugs
    rotax racing ecu .
    Billet stock intercooler block off
    and Jet Trim seat cover
    trued rideplate,and intake grate, with holes filled in
    wrapped muffler, power pipe, and insulated IC to throttle body pipe
    homemade oil catch can
    Faze white face boost guage
    trimmed reverse bucket
    Riva Intake extended to upper storage bin
    & last but not least
    1 newton meter = 8.85074579 inch pounds...lol

  7. #7
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    nice... thanks! ski is runnin damn strong considering you being in florida with the air and water temps... impressive.

    i work with a few guys at my lcoal dealership and we built a RXP with VERY similar setup you have... just no mods to power filter or rideplate and whatnot... otherwise all the same bolt ons pretty much and we got 77 mph yesterday here in NY with really no tuning and tweeking... with some more air intake work and hull work and maybe mild repitches i'm sure we could gain some more, but we had the ski FOREVER and the customer is very happy as it is... your ski would be rediculous in this weather we havin in NY right now... dead calm 68 degree water and 65 degree air... we're lovin it for performance, but gettin chilly

  8. #8
    mgo7483's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas
    I believe it would be very benificial. One thing to take note of is the potential of trapped water under the wrap corroding the pipe.
    I donít think wrapping the pipe would have any more corrosive effects then not wrapping the pipe. The header pipe on the 4-Tec engine is stainless steel. There is already water (fresh or salt) flowing thru it. Fresh water in will not corrode stainless steel, but chlorides will. Salt water obviously contains chlorides. If wrapping on the header pipe was saturated with salt water, the corrosive effects would be no different then the salt water flowing thru the pipe. There are certain grades of stainless steel that are resistant to chlorides (ie. 904L, duplexs, etc). It is possible (but not likely) that Sea-Doo / Rotax used one of these stainless steels. It is also possible that the header pipe is coated with some kind of anodizing to resist the chlorides. If not, it would just be a matter of time till all salt water skiís headers rusted out, wrapped or not. Thatís why we are always supposed to flush the ski with fresh water after riding in salt water.

    On cars, the headers are more exposed to the elements. I can understand if the corrosion of carbon steel automotive headers from water being trapped in the wrapping, but not stainless steel headers. That is unless there is something in the wrapping material that when combined with water creates some kind of corrosive material.

    Hey psycho, are you running the PPG resonated power pipe or the non-resonated one?

  9. #9
    way2fast's Avatar
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    Stainless steel can have good resistance to salt water, depending on the alloy. I remember reading once that SS must be exposed to air for it's corrosion preventing properties to work properly. This is probably true as I remember removing a SS transom plate off an outboard boat that looked new and shiney on the outside but it was rusted and corroded badly on the inside where it was up against the hull and air did not get at it, but the salt sure did. I imagine the header wrap would prevent air flow and increase the chance of corrosion.

    Richard

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