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  1. #1
    Buck3yeRideR's Avatar
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    R00kie questions where search returns no results

    How to properly flush/reverse flush 1995 sl650?

    Is it possible to take apart the carbs, clean, and reuse the replaceable parts? IE everything that comes in a carb rebuild kit. Yesterday I rebuilt one set of cards and the parts i replaced did not look bad at all. I have to rebuild my second ski's carbs and i'm thinking maybe i can put together the best parts and use them again? opinions?

    Where do most people mount their triple outlet pump? From what i understand the shorter the pulse hose the better, must be above the engine pulse fitting but below the carbs.

    Can I make my own block off plate with aluminum, or is there something special they have? Last year i almost smoked my engine b/c the FA fell off and i was being stupid.


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    1. Does the ski have the flush kit installed? It's a garden hose hook up on the water bar. If not, you need to buy one, or you can remove the 3/4" hose coming off the jet pump on the inside of the hull. That's your main water cooling supply. You can then insert a garden hose adapter into that and flush out the system.

    NOTE: Start engine first, then turn on water. Turn water off, then shut down engine in that order to prevent possible flooding of engine.

    2. If the parts are good, yes. But it's definately recommended to rebuild the carbs due to age alone. Any cracks in the rubber parts can cause an air leak, which can result in piston failure. If you're going in there anyways, might as well do it right and KNOW you're good. Carb rebuild kits = $150 or less Single piston kit, cylinder bore/hone, gasket set = $180 plus your down time.

    3. On the hull support rib right in front of the battery.

    4. Yes you can. Just make sure to use a good silicone sealer to keep it air tight.

  3. #3
    Buck3yeRideR's Avatar
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    Thanks for xlint advice xlint!

  4. #4
    Buck3yeRideR's Avatar
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    Couple more questions........

    What do i do with the oil tank wires after i go to premix? Is there a quick disconnect in the wire box?


    What would one do with the piston water rail sensor/wire if one went to the pisser set-up?

  5. #5
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buck3yeRideR View Post
    Couple more questions........

    What do i do with the oil tank wires after i go to premix? Is there a quick disconnect in the wire box?


    What would one do with the piston water rail sensor/wire if one went to the pisser set-up?
    You trace the oil sensor wires back to the Ebox. In there you can put a 33ohm resistor between the two leads/terminals. This will make the warning system think the tank is full.

    The temp sensors make a connection to engine ground when the thermocouple expands. Under normal conditions the wire is an open circuit. You can simply cap off the dire and you would be fine. However at that point you wouldn't have any overheat warning. If you simply want a free flowing water system just simply remove the spring and thermostat Nd keep the water bar so you still have the temp sensor.

    KJ

  6. #6
    Buck3yeRideR's Avatar
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    What type of material are the carb screws made of?

    I think this is a design flaw as i have stripped the phillips heads on a number of them, which then i had to drill out. Same issue with the throttle plates. A total PITA.

  7. #7
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    Impact screw driver works great on removing them ... Well, before they're stripped. Sorry to hear your problem.
    Here's an idea for screw replacement:
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=136350

  8. #8
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Definately an impact screwdriver. And if you are replacing screws, recommend stainless steel. Loonatiks post probably says that, I didn't have a chance to read through the whole thing....

  9. #9
    Buck3yeRideR's Avatar
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    A couple more questions referencing the 1995 sl650's

    Does there come a point when the adhesive holding the two halves of the full together weakens, will fail, lets water through? I'm kinda worried about this since these ski's are getting towards 20 years old.

    Are the Styrofoam inserts on the inside of the hull necessary? I'm guessing they help keep the craft a-float, however there would be a heck of a lot more room without them.

  10. #10
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    I think the adhesive used to bond the hull is pretty sound stuff, so the likelihood of it separating is fairly low. I'm sure it can happen, especially if the ski has taken hard impacts (dock bumping, etc). But, overall it's probably not a huge issue.

    The foam is necessary for Coast Guard compliance. Also, as you assumed, the foam keeps the ski afloat if the hull floods or it is capsized. Yes there would be more room but removing it is not worth the risk.

    KJ

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