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  1. #1
    skigolfnut's Avatar
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    Question on Turbos?

    Why is it that every time I see someone go turbo about 6 months later its a complete part out?
    and usually all the turbo parts for sale have about 20 hours on them?

    Doesn't anyone go turbo and stay turbo?


  2. #2
    Moderator Insanediego Joe's Avatar
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    In my opinion,

    If you cant tune your afrs and egts then its a ticking time bomb. I see a lot of pictures of turbo skis on here that are not water cooled at all. This creates so much heat under the seat it can start to burn the hull. Turbos are not plug and play like some people on here think. I dont think you will see a well prepared turbo ski being parted out.

  3. #3
    SPEED JUNKIE! buickbrian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Insanediego Joe View Post
    In my opinion,

    If you cant tune your afrs and egts then its a ticking time bomb. I see a lot of pictures of turbo skis on here that are not water cooled at all. This creates so much heat under the seat it can start to burn the hull. Turbos are not plug and play like some people on here think. I dont think you will see a well prepared turbo ski being parted out.
    Well said..

    I think most of the used stuff you see for sale are first gen turbo stuff. wrong turbo all together, mounted to low/ water ingestion. the newer kits people are making are much improved. As is the turbo technology. The ability to tune without spending 4k+ on a standalone ecu is a great option. CMDM or even the AEM look to have a future with the turbos. Yes I LOVE MY TURBO!

  4. #4
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Probably wrong turbo, too laggy, wrong setup, too small turbo (one that is slower than the SC they took off)
    blew up the motor, and cant afford a new one after spending all the money to build the setup.

    Mine is setup right, and love it! I could always keep adding things to it, but not necessary to just go out and ride all day long.

  5. #5
    captain slow Turbo Retro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Insanediego Joe View Post
    In my opinion,

    If you cant tune your afrs and egts then its a ticking time bomb. I see a lot of pictures of turbo skis on here that are not water cooled at all. This creates so much heat under the seat it can start to burn the hull. Turbos are not plug and play like some people on here think. I dont think you will see a well prepared turbo ski being parted out.
    + 1 million. not to mention a fuel map to match the characteristics of the turbo as well to keep fuelling ok...
    anything that can be cooled, should...

  6. #6
    blackvr's Avatar
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    been turbo for a couple yrs now and never looked back. you do learn along the way and make changes but you have to have the mind set for it. some people go turbo and dont have a clue or are given incorrect info thats why you see shit for sale.

  7. #7

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    I did pretty much just what you said. Built my own turbo setup, got it running, enjoyed it for 10 or 20 hours, then parted it out. I was running a "conservative" 18 psi boost, good A/F ratio, and loved the way it ran and sounded. I didn't have any reliability problems with the turbo setup or engine.

    However, as someone else mentioned, heat control in the engine bay was my biggest concern. I went into the project already understanding how critical that would be. I built a fully jacketed "up pipe", sprayed water into the downpipe just after the turbo, installed add-on air vents, and built a clam-shell water jacket to go over the turbine housing. However, heat was still a problem. I had some relatively minor issues with melted plastic and hoses. Usually this happened after I turned it off, when water and air was no longer circulating but the turbine housing was still hot. That's a large chunk of metal that holds a lot of BTU's even at idle-EGT's. I make long rides (50-100 miles) and never could get comfortable that it would be 100% reliable because 50 miles is a long tow back. If I used it primarily on a lake and never got more than 10 miles from the landing, I probably would have kept it.

    In my opinion, the only way to truly solve the problem is to use a turbocharger with an integral water jacket on the hot side (NOT the same thing as a water-cooled cartridge or bearings housing). This type turbocharger is used in inboard diesel applications, the turbo Honda PWC, and also Mercury Racing's new twin turbo 1350 hp 552 cid DOHC monster.

    http://mercuryracing.com/1350/gallery/

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEATEK-660-H...rts_SM&vxp=mtr

    Borg-Warner sells them in just the sizes we need, but they are an OEM supplier and I never could get through to anyone that could sell me one.

  8. #8
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    turbo done right is big money like tial water cooled housings exc. and then you have lots of tune time
    IMO you need to be in the 25+psi range or it’s just not cost effective
    the turbo will allways make more HP lbs per lbs because the SC takes hp to make hp and its free on a turbo
    from a turbo guy the best part I recomend for any turbo app with out data logging is the http://www.prologger.com/
    its a af gage, data logger, boost controler, with many more cool features all in one unit
    when I was planning my rxp project it started out to be a gt2871 and for the 20psi I was shooting for the SC seems like the best choice

  9. #9
    Moderator Insanediego Joe's Avatar
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    I got my turbo housing cooled for 400 bucs.. and they did a great job.

  10. #10
    SPEED JUNKIE! buickbrian's Avatar
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    This is how I cooled mine works great. Ride 10 mi across the lake quickly pull seat 150-160* w/ my heat gun on the turbine hsg. everything else is cooler than that. After stopped it will heat soak and rise to 180-190 before it cools back down. no water flow. I could'nt be happier.


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