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  1. #1

    Unhappy 2000 xl 1200 limited transom plate bolt snapped, am i safe to water test?

    After rebuilding my top, I went through the pump (had been pulled b4 I bought ski) and mounted it. Lower left bolt was not going in, thread was messed up in transom plate, tried cleaning it but didn't have the tap set handy and decided to apply a little brute force... Bolt snapped, half is stuck in plate now. Was planning on water testing this weekend, is it safe to test like that? I think those 3 big bolts that are left should hold out.... Or should I take the damn thing out, extract the bolt and re-thread (tools handy now)? How difficult is to change the whole plate out? I see 4 bolts to the hull and sealant around them, there are some plates out there for less than $80 in good used condition, is it worth it? Please advise...


  2. #2
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    If you can extract the bolt and straighten the threads that would be best even if you have to put a stud in there. I would not pull the transom plate unless it was leaking or something. they are difficult to get off. if you are just going to putt around it would be safe to test the motor BUTT just remember that is all the thrust and STEERING for the boat. Running it at full throttle or high speeds could be UNSAFE.

  3. #3
    I hear ya, I will water test today and kind of half break in engine if weather cooperate but no high speed or wot. When I bought the ski back in novembrr it had been sitting for almost a year with some gas left in the tank. The po didnt winterize it and he believes that's why water rusted piston#3 and made it lock/seize. Last november when I brought the ski home and pulled the engine before it got really cold I topped off the gas tank with a little over 12 gallons of fresh gas, I know it tskes around 18 to fill up. So maybe there were 6 gallons of potentially bad gas there. I then poured blue marine stabil generously well over the recommended amount knowing it would seat till now and compensating for the old gas. I then put in oil at a ratio a little more than 4oz per gallon. I started the engine after the rebuilt top with this gas and it started fine and sounded fine for the 5 or so minutes i ran in on the hose. Should I use this tank of gas or just sifon it out and put fresh gas and oil? Sorry for the long and winded explanation but when asking for advise the more details given the better, rigth?

  4. #4
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    If it were mine I wound drop the nose low enough for the gas to be in the front so I could drain all the old gas out completely so there is no gas of anything in the tank. Then go back with fresh gas and premix at 40/1 ratio maybe a little more for break in if you are going premix permanently.

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  6. #6
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    I would remove the pump and carefully drill out the bolt. then re-tap, then install a stainless heli-coil insert.
    Second choice would be to remove the pump and remove the transom plate. Clean both mating surfaces and install with marine sealant. Make sure you line up the tabs properly.
    Bit of advice I have done for years, I always use a bit of antisieze on all the pump bolts. they are all low torque, so this is ok. Depending on geographical location, water salinity ect....helps prevent this type of issue from coming up again. Same goes with the driveshaft.
    Please see this pump sealing thread if the decision is made to remove that pump shoe. http://www.hydrotoys.com/gpr/tuners/...Sealing%20.pdf
    Tip: never force a bolt. take the extra time to go get a tap to clean the thread to save a headache later. I know its hindsight now.
    DO NOT water test with three bolts.

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