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  1. #1

    No Spark 2000 slx 1200cc HELP

    I am not gettting any spark to my plugs. Any body have any ideas about why this would occur.

    Here is apicture of my CDI box wiring. The guy I bought it from today took it too a shop when it came back the guy said the CDI was bad. I cant see how that woulod just all of a sudden happen. Look at the wiring and let me knowif you see anything fishy. There is a brown(tan) wire that is off and a light blue wire thats connected to a terminal marked tan. I tried connecting the tan wire to it and it did nothing. I am not getting any spark to the plugs. Hoping some one ahs gone through the same things asn has an easy/cheap fix or way to test things. My coil and elctric box look ok to me. Clean no burns anywhere.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    He as told he needs and ignition coil 4010174 and the electric box 4010379
    Might as well just replace the whole CDI if anyone knows where I can find a cheap one or used one working.

    2000 slx 1200cc

    Thanks All.


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk.

    What's the battery voltage WHILE cranking?

    Is the lanyard installed?

    Check the kill switch for grounding.

  3. #3
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    Welcome to the hulk!

    Attached is a copy of the wiring diagram. Verify everything is connected correctly.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is a link to where you can download the service manual. All the testing procedures are at the end. You can test the stator coils, hall effect sensors and ignition coils with a simple ohm meter. You cant test the CDI, so you test everything else and if it is all good, then you replace the CDI. CDI's are hard to come by for the 1200's so people substitute the 1050 CDI's. Slightly different timing, but if you care, there is a member here that can re-flash it to the correct timing curve.

    http://pwcmanuals.shorturl.com/

    Do some testing with an Ohm meter and let us know if you have any specific questions.

  4. #4
    Yes the lanyard is on or it wouldn't turn over at all.
    Battery voltage is 13.5 good
    Kill switch ground I will check but wouldn't it not turn over if it had a bad ground?

    Thanks ghost for the links and info I will check it out and report back

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    How can you have 13.5 V when a battery only produces 12.6V?

    And you must check to see what the battery voltage is at WHILE cranking. (trying to start the motor)

    If you have a grounded kill switch, it'll crank all day long but the electrical spark will go to ground VS. jumping the plug gap.

  6. #6
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    How can you have 13.5 V when a battery only produces 12.6V?
    Inaccurate meter...overcharged battery. Most of my mfd's read high.

  7. #7
    I meant 12 but the meter multi gauge is hard to read, need a new one.
    If I kill the kill switch black/yellow wire disconnect on the board will this bypass the possibility of a grounding by the kill switch?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by heebeha View Post
    I meant 12 but the meter multi gauge is hard to read, need a new one.
    If I kill the kill switch black/yellow wire disconnect on the board will this bypass the possibility of a grounding by the kill switch?
    Yes, pull the black/yellow wire from the kill switch off the board and see if it fires.

  9. #9
    These wires are nto connected on the panel I believe the great is for a MFI Guage. I have a MFD Guage so I am figureing ti should not be connected. But I am not sure.
    The tan wire was not connected either, any ideas.
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    Which Blacka nd yellow wire should be removed? There is one with a plastic cover and one with just a butt connector.
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    The wiring diagram also calls for the red/purple CDI power wire to be moved to the Orange terminal (LR switched power). I dont see a Orange wire that could connect the the red/purple wire. Some help would really be appreciate here. I am wondering if this is the problem...

    In the end its probably the CDI unit that is bad even though it looks like new. if anyone can help me find one used for cheap Id really appreciate it. Again I have a 2000 Polaris SLX 1200. I hate to just buy one without doing all I can to figure what it really is, the CDI is about $300 new dammit.

    Thanks all.

  10. #10
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    OK....disconnect the black/yellow wire with the black insulation on it. The other black/yellow goes to the CDI. That grey wire is for the RPM limiter. The tan wire connect to the tan terminal. Thats your overheat sensor. If you want the RPM limit function, you can connect the grey wire to the tan terminal. On the Pro 1200 I have the grey wire is connected directly to the temp sensor wire. Unfortunately, the only way to test a CDI is to replace it with a known good one.

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