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  1. #1
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    couple questions on going back to injection, my head, bolt cleaning, ect.

    been a long winter it seems like, i didnt post much on here over the winter, but im back and ready to start messing with things.

    1. you may remember or might be able to find my thread i posted about my head cover gasket leaking water around the plugs, here soon im going to pull the head, clean all the bolt holes and bolts and try cleaning the head, checking for flatness, maybe sanding flat if it needs it, and putting it all back together. my plugs were saying lean, so im curious to get in there and check my piston wash out. ill post pics of that when the time comes. im hoping that has something do with why its running lean, my carbs were just redone and im not trying to get into those again.

    how do you guys clean your bolts? i bought a cheap tap and dye set from hairball freight, looks like its a horrible quality, people say its good enough to chase threads, and clean bolts, but not much else. should i sell it and get a nice craftsman set or just use it? is that how you guys clean your bolts/bolt holes?

    2. i have my flame suit on believe me. i want to go back to injection. been doing some reading, and my oil injection stuff was working fine when i pulled it. im tired of going through oil so fast, and premixing at the pump and on the water. the last time i did it i filled it too much and it expanded and came out of the fill cap and stained my cover, and messed up the sticker on the side. maybe im just too stupid for premix, but im tired of having to put in 5 gallons or none, i want to just fill it up, and for some reason it bothers me knowing all the stuff is there, just capped off. anyone got any good threads on going back? im assuming i need to get the new clips for the lines that go to the carbs, and i need to install the pump, undo the zip ties on the tank floats, get all that straight, put oil in it, but then how do you prime that pump? another quesion, i ordered an island racing pre mix kit, and the plug part that went into the motor, like the diamater of the raised part on the back of the block off plate was too big, so i had to dremel out the hole that it goes into, just a little bit to squeeze it in there, its in there good, probably going to take some prying to get it out, will that hole being enlarged a little mess with the pump at all? did me removing it take the pump out of adjustment? should i run the ski down to a quarter tank or so then fill it with normal gas (un premixed) and then install the stuff and run it so it has some oil in it or will it defiantly take a while and run it dry? also, can I inject my domintor?

    3. so as mentioned before, i had filled it for the winter, it was pretty full, probably halfway through the fill hose, when i drove it home, it had splashed up and leaked out of the gas cap, got the cover stained, and then the decal of the ski that was below the cap is now peeling. what are my options here, the ski has lots of random scratches, most of which are on the decals. i know the decals are expensive and if i just do one of them, it probably wont match. if i pull the decals off, and run it without them, i know the paint will need some sort of correction, because the paint below the stickers has been protected from sun,ect for so long, that ill probably see where the stickers went once they are off. can you correct the paint with a buffer or something since its a gel coat? the only look i like with out the decals is when the fairing is black, but now i have my jet trim seat cover on there that has blue on it. basically in my mind the only way this thing will look good by my standards is if i repaint the whole ski.

    any advice on any of those things?


  2. #2
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    no ideas anyone?

  3. #3
    Formerly Ultra250 TN Aquaholic6801's Avatar
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    A little premix goes a long ways vs a motor rebuild............

  4. #4
    Almost's Avatar
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    This will take the headache out of premixing especially on the water. It goes by the gallon so you just fill it up to the correct ratio and a dump. I guess you could also fill it with oil and take it with you and just subtract out of it when you go to fill up.

    http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Ratio-Cup.aspx

  5. #5
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    i have one of those bottles, i just feel like i shouldnt put fuel in then dump the oil on top, i feel like it mixes better when its oil then gas. but thats just me.

    is dominator injection safe? anyone have any advice on cleaning bolts or anything like that?

    any threads about going back to premix

  6. #6

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    I have 3 GP1200R skis. All premix. I keep a quart of oil in the storage bin and reuse the quart bottle when I gas up. I run them until the low fuel warning comes on, go to the gas dock, dump the quart of oil in, put 10 gals (EXACTLY 10 gals) in at the pump.. And there you go - 40:1 - Always right. Mixes in the tank. I may never be completely full, but that way there is no chance of expansion to the point of leaking out.

    For cleaning bolts, I clean them on a bench grinder with a wire wheel on it. For the holes, I use the wire brushes for cleaning gun barrels. Put them on drill, works nicely. I do use taps occasionally, but it certainly isn't as fast.

  7. #7
    Almost's Avatar
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    You could mark your tank with a marker so when it hits that line you know you have 1-2 gallons left. Pour the oil in then top the tank with the 1-2 gallons you have left so it is mixed good, but I don't know how precise that would be. I always look at the tank anyway when I'm filling so I don't spill it.

  8. #8
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    If you do it correctly, you definitely run oil injection without much fear. Nice new soft flexible lines, metal crimp style clamps, good quality oil, correctly routed hoses with plenty of slack where you need and also support where needed. prime your pump with a drill. Maybe run a tank of premix at the same time as the injection conversion to make sure the oil injection is flowing and free of air locks.

  9. #9

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    The stock oil pump has a larger rubber line that goes to a plate by the idle speed adjuster. Take the plug out of the end of that line, gravity will purge the air in the pump and oil will come out of that line. That will purge the pump, then if you leave the premix in the tank, you will be safe until the oil has filled the little lines to the carbs. It won't hurt anything to run both until you get fuel the next time. The wallowed out hole "may" be a problem because it might not let the pump be perfectly centered in the hole, and a bit out of alignment with the crank.

    Bolts I clean with a wire wheel on my bench grinder, and run taps thru the bolt holes. You can buy individual taps at www.McMasterCarr.com.

    Take the head cover and head to someone who has a surface plate and have then true it up. Then use sealer on the gasket. I had one that had a troublesome leak around the plugs, causing the plug jacket to always rust up. Another way would be to use a thicker paper gasket like the ones SBT sells, and again use sealant or RTV.

    Decals, be carefull removing them from colored paint surfaces like the cowlings. Even using care and a heat gun, the ones on my son's XLL removed the clear coat over the purple, so it does not shine now and you can see where the decal was. Not such a problem on the white areas, but beware colors.

  10. #10
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    That's great advice guys it wont hurt to run 40 to 1 premix and injection at the same time? That wont foul out plugs?

    The service manual says to use like 600 grit sandpaper and do a figure 8 on it with the head to get it flat, will that work if I keep checking it with a straight edge?

    Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk

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