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  1. #1

    Red face Bought a 1997 SPX

    Drove 2-1/2 hours last night to pick up my first PWC.

    Machine looks clean, guy took good care of it. Looked completely stock, right down to the grey fuel lines (which i already have replacements )
    PSI was 145+ on both cylinders. hull looked to be pretty clean.

    Excited to get out on the water with 6KJR this summer.
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  2. #2
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Power_Man View Post
    Drove 2-1/2 hours last night to pick up my first PWC.

    Machine looks clean, guy took good care of it. Looked completely stock, right down to the grey fuel lines (which i already have replacements )
    PSI was 145+ on both cylinders. hull looked to be pretty clean.

    Excited to get out on the water with 6KJR this summer.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2520fha_20.jpeg 
Views:	73 
Size:	48.2 KB 
ID:	267939
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	46905dn_20.jpeg 
Views:	65 
Size:	69.4 KB 
ID:	267944
    Very nice score. you can clean that hood up with a heat gun and I would definitly reccommend some hydroturf for the foot wells.

  3. #3
    Beautiful ski! I like that cool little yellow trailer too. The light ones like that are so easy to wheel around. The reason the grey(Tempo) fuel lines are so hated is that they will break down and flake up, goo up, delaminate and clog the filters in your carbs. Then it can starve for gas, run lean, and damage your engine. The new fuel selector is only around $20 also. Well, enjoy, I know your gonna.

  4. #4
    Joe Stang's Avatar
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    Hydro turf is a must! Makes the ski that much more fun to ride. That and sponsons


    Great ski! I had my 97 spx for 11 years. I sure do miss it.

  5. #5
    I have the same ski, turf and BH sponsons are a MUST! Don't bother modding it beyond a compression bump, jet kit/FAs, and impeller!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by airbornexp View Post
    Very nice score. you can clean that hood up with a heat gun and I would definitly reccommend some hydroturf for the foot wells.
    When you say hood i assume you mean the front yellow part? The heat gun will just bring the shine back? Any links to technique to use?

    Quote Originally Posted by ZuminaZX View Post
    I have the same ski, turf and BH sponsons are a MUST! Don't bother modding it beyond a compression bump, jet kit/FAs, and impeller!
    What sort of impeller, and how does one go about compression increase? Hew head?

    The yellow padding on the handle bars is all "dirty". The last guy said he tried everything to clean it. Any tricks to that?

  7. #7
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Power_Man View Post
    When you say hood i assume you mean the front yellow part? The heat gun will just bring the shine back? Any links to technique to use?



    What sort of impeller, and how does one go about compression increase? Hew head?

    The yellow padding on the handle bars is all "dirty". The last guy said he tried everything to clean it. Any tricks to that?
    yes, for the heat gun start out about 8" out and slowly wand it in a circular motion till it starts to "shine" what it is really doing is melting the plastic just a tad and removing the oxidation. you can test this out on your rub rails in an inconspicuous spot so that you get a feel for how this will work. the hood is a bit thinner platic so it will happen faster. as soon as you see it shine move on. if there are still spots let it cool and try again later. as for the handle bar pad you can use a rubbing compoud and it will take all that dirt out of the rubber or just replace it.

    dont worry about modding this ski yet. ride it, get used to how it handles, then change things later. your compression sounds fine. some gauges are off and will reflect lower numbers. as long as you are with in +/-5 psi per cylinder you are good. a new motor is around 150-155psi.

  8. #8

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    looks good..any engine pics?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by airbornexp View Post
    yes, for the heat gun start out about 8" out and slowly wand it in a circular motion till it starts to "shine" what it is really doing is melting the plastic just a tad and removing the oxidation. you can test this out on your rub rails in an inconspicuous spot so that you get a feel for how this will work. the hood is a bit thinner platic so it will happen faster. as soon as you see it shine move on. if there are still spots let it cool and try again later. as for the handle bar pad you can use a rubbing compoud and it will take all that dirt out of the rubber or just replace it.

    dont worry about modding this ski yet. ride it, get used to how it handles, then change things later. your compression sounds fine. some gauges are off and will reflect lower numbers. as long as you are with in +/-5 psi per cylinder you are good. a new motor is around 150-155psi.
    Thanks for the info!
    Quote Originally Posted by nikko mercado View Post
    looks good..any engine pics?
    I can take some pictures tonight.
    Got the garage all cleaned up, so i can actually work around it.

  10. #10

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    A little tip on the plastic restoration. I am doing the same on a 1996 SP I was given. The heat gun works awesome but be careful. Only heat it enough to see the gloss, it will start like magic and move on. It is also good to stop every few seconds to cool the part with water especially if you are doing a large part and keep the heat moving, do not stop in one spot. My parts went from white to glossy factory purple. The only part that gave me trouble was the fuel selector knob so far. Because the knob has recessed areas when the raised areas turned glossy the recessed area was not getting as much heat so I heated it up more to try to get the recess glossy and it got too hot and turned the raised area brown, burnt! I decided to try the other side of the knob with a propane torch... BE VERY CAREFUL! It works but you have to keep it at a distance and move fast over the part and away, you will just lick one spot at a time with the flame and it instantly flashes the area to glossy. I found after some practice I can hit the recessed areas with the flame and turn them after I have done the raised areas with the heat gun and no burnt plastic. You have to try it to beleive it but it does work. Take your time and get a feel for it on the smaller areas like the rub rails and gas cap.

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