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  1. #1

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    2000 XP blowing front 15amp fuse when battery is connected

    My friends ski is having some electrical problems. He bought it a few months ago but it kept bogging down and running roughly so we replaced the grey Tempo fuel lines and cleaned the external and internal fuel filters and fitted a new set of plugs. It also killed the previous battery and the fuel gauge didn't work. Well after the fuel line change we fitted a new battery and yesterday it ran really well for about 15 mins but then the gauges kept flickering and it wouldn't start. Now (after charging the battery overnight) the 15 amp fuse in the front electrical box keeps blowing. Reading through the forum and through the service manual this sounds like a rectifier problem, but does anyone know how I can test the rectifier when the engine won't start? Also where is the rectifier! In the service manual it says it's integral to the MPEM unit - does that mean it's not user serviceable and it's a new MPEM?

    One bit of good news, the ski was running fine until this electrical problem came up, and we fixed the fuel gauge by soldering in two new reed switches on the fuel sender.

    Tips on the electrical problem will be much appreciated.
    A.


  2. #2

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    your bendix is most likely coming apart and the shrap metal has shorted out your stator. Ohm out the stator per the manual

  3. #3

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    Thanks Jim will check the ohms as per manual. Not sure if it has any relevance but the engine did turn when we shorted the started and battery wire, obviously it didn't start as the 15A fuse was out. Is it unlikely to be the rectifier then?

  4. #4

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    Thanks Jim will check the ohms as per manual. Not sure if it has any relevance but the engine did turn when we shorted the started and battery wire, obviously it didn't start as the 15A fuse was out. Is it unlikely to be the rectifier then?

  5. #5
    WBoulton's Avatar
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    Mine did this, like stated above it was a bad stator.

  6. #6

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    I cut and paste the following steps on another forum on how to remove the starter. Can anyone verify if these steps work on the 2000 XP (there were for a 98 XP)?

    - Took ski home and removed the exhaust to have some room to work with.
    - Removed the front engine mount and raised the engine a little with some rope hooked onto the roof of the garage.
    - Disconnected the oil hoses from the oil pump (main hose from reservoir and 2 little hoses that supply the engine oil) don't forget to plug the main soil supply hose that comes from the reservoir with something, I used a large bolt!
    - Disconnected the electrical plug that connects to the female end on the magneto cover.
    - Removed all bolts from magneto cover and removed the housing including the oil pump all in one go.
    - On the inside of the magneto cover is the stator bolted on by 3 ellen bolts which you will need an ellen key to remove
    - Removed the stator and found it has been shorted and blown by a foreign piece of metal (small pin/wire) that was never meant to be present in the first place (must be from previous rebuild the previous owner didn't see/remove) so when my mate took it for a spin he must have hit a wave which caused the little foreign wire to get lodged between two stators and caused it to short and burn out!
    - Purchased after market stator from amazon for $170 US as brand new OEM stator here in New Zealand is $600NZD!!!!
    - Fitted new stator, placed back the magneto cover, connected the oil pump hoses back, bled the oil pump IMPORTANT and re-adjusted oil pump, hooked up the exhaust etc.
    - Replaced the 15amp fuse again and basically put the whole thing back together! Hooked up the lanyard and first pop and it started!

    A.
    Last edited by ubernoob; 04-08-2012 at 02:19 AM. Reason: added in steps

  7. #7

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    My mate removed the housing around the stator last weekend and found metal filings in there. I havent seen it yet but he says the bendix looked out and that the filings came from a trashed crank oil seal. However with the stator back in and cleaned up its still blowing the 15A fuse, could the stator be trashed, if so can they be repaired?

    Thanks for help so far.

  8. #8

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    did you ohm out the stator when you had it out?-- that would have told if it is any good or not. HIGHLY UNLIKELY that the damage was caused from "trashed crank oil seal".

  9. #9

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    I agree Jim ref the oil seal creating the metal shards. I'm being a bit thick here but what do you mean by ohm out?

  10. #10
    canuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ubernoob View Post
    I agree Jim ref the oil seal creating the metal shards. I'm being a bit thick here but what do you mean by ohm out?

    Use a multi meter on the resistance or ohm setting and measure the resistance of each coil and the resistance of each coil to ground. You probably have one coil shorted to ground causing the fuse to blow.

    You need an electrical multi meter to check this properly as visually a bad stator can look the same as a good stator unless there is obvious visual damage.

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