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  1. #1

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    Best impeller for my fzr with my mods

    Hi I have a 2011 fzr with the following mods would like to know what impeller will best suit my setup

    R3. Ecu
    c1 wheel
    r&D cooling lines
    intake grate
    pump seal kit
    ride plate
    thru hull exhaust
    Blow off valve
    cfm kit
    pro series air filter
    r&d supercharger shaft


  2. #2

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    get a skat 13/24 and pitch it to suit your needs. you will probobaly end up at 15/24 for best all round performance.

  3. #3

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    I don't really understand pitch and stuff so you saying try the 13/24 first

  4. #4
    jetpilot785's Avatar
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    My GF's ski has almost identical mods as yours and it likes the R&D 13/23 Pro Pitch. It will depend on the variables in your area but that is a good place to start. You have the ability to tweak it either way if need be. R&D recommends the 12/22 pro pitch for a setup like that but I found the 13/23 pro pitch to be a little nicer all around. The longer blade on the pro pitch puts the trailing edge closer to the stator for reduced cavitation along with the more aggressive leading edge which also helps to reduce cavitation. If you run a shorter blade then maybe the higher pitches may work ok but I found over the years that it feels better all around with a slightly shallower angle with more blade surface area for reduced cavitation and good all around cruisability.

    Her ski with the 13/23 longblade spins in the 8150-8300 and tickles 80mph with her 110lb ass on it. It ran 78.2 with me on it @8150rpm. I also tried a 13/21 standard blade on it and it spun at 8400rpm but didn't go any faster on top and had more cavitation down low. Also when I was cruising, I would cruise at 62-6500 and gets speeds between 48-50mph with the 13/23 long blade and with the 13/21 standard at the same rpm range I was only getting 42-44mph so in order to cruise at 50 with the shorter blade and shallower angle, I had to spin it around 7000rpm which in turn increases boost and fuel consumption which equates to reduced range and efficiency. The way they work, like on boats, is distance per revolution and the more pitch and more blade surface area equates to more distance per revolution which means more mph on top and better efficiency in the cruising rpm ranges. That only holds true if the engine has enough torque and horsepower to run the engine in the powerband recommended which is usually tested on the dyno and in our case, R&D sais this particular setup should be in the 8200-8300 rpm range at WOT.

    You can try other brands and styles of impellers but this is the best all around setup I found to work with this setup. I tried no less than 6 props with all different angles including a solas dynafly 13/22R and a twin prop and I liked the 13/23 pro pitch the best. It even works well on the C3 wheel with an IC upgrade when trying to spin it in the 8500-8600 rpm range. The dynafly cavitates way to much for my liking but worked well in the midrange and up top and the twin worked well down low and in the midrange but I lost 5mph easy on top with not too much difference in low end performance when comparing it to the 13/23 long blade. It also gobbled gas with the twin prop as well as it required less pitch to spin it in the recommended rpm range but also required more throttle position and power to spin it in the recommeded rpm range due to the added surface area when combining both inducer and main blade surface areas. The long and short of it, it would run 77.1 mph at 8880 rpm and at 62-6500 rpm it was in the 32-35mph area so I was chewing through gas to cruise it in the 50mph range which is where I normally would cruise at. Hope this helps you get a better idea of what you may be looking for.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by jetpilot785 View Post
    My GF's ski has almost identical mods as yours and it likes the R&D 13/23 Pro Pitch. It will depend on the variables in your area but that is a good place to start. You have the ability to tweak it either way if need be. R&D recommends the 12/22 pro pitch for a setup like that but I found the 13/23 pro pitch to be a little nicer all around. The longer blade on the pro pitch puts the trailing edge closer to the stator for reduced cavitation along with the more aggressive leading edge which also helps to reduce cavitation. If you run a shorter blade then maybe the higher pitches may work ok but I found over the years that it feels better all around with a slightly shallower angle with more blade surface area for reduced cavitation and good all around cruisability.

    Her ski with the 13/23 longblade spins in the 8150-8300 and tickles 80mph with her 110lb ass on it. It ran 78.2 with me on it @8150rpm. I also tried a 13/21 standard blade on it and it spun at 8400rpm but didn't go any faster on top and had more cavitation down low. Also when I was cruising, I would cruise at 62-6500 and gets speeds between 48-50mph with the 13/23 long blade and with the 13/21 standard at the same rpm range I was only getting 42-44mph so in order to cruise at 50 with the shorter blade and shallower angle, I had to spin it around 7000rpm which in turn increases boost and fuel consumption which equates to reduced range and efficiency. The way they work, like on boats, is distance per revolution and the more pitch and more blade surface area equates to more distance per revolution which means more mph on top and better efficiency in the cruising rpm ranges. That only holds true if the engine has enough torque and horsepower to run the engine in the powerband recommended which is usually tested on the dyno and in our case, R&D sais this particular setup should be in the 8200-8300 rpm range at WOT.

    You can try other brands and styles of impellers but this is the best all around setup I found to work with this setup. I tried no less than 6 props with all different angles including a solas dynafly 13/22R and a twin prop and I liked the 13/23 pro pitch the best. It even works well on the C3 wheel with an IC upgrade when trying to spin it in the 8500-8600 rpm range. The dynafly cavitates way to much for my liking but worked well in the midrange and up top and the twin worked well down low and in the midrange but I lost 5mph easy on top with not too much difference in low end performance when comparing it to the 13/23 long blade. It also gobbled gas with the twin prop as well as it required less pitch to spin it in the recommended rpm range but also required more throttle position and power to spin it in the recommeded rpm range due to the added surface area when combining both inducer and main blade surface areas. The long and short of it, it would run 77.1 mph at 8880 rpm and at 62-6500 rpm it was in the 32-35mph area so I was chewing through gas to cruise it in the 50mph range which is where I normally would cruise at. Hope this helps you get a better idea of what you may be looking for.

    Thank you so much for you in depth detail I might go with what you said since it has worked for you just one other thing with my setup do you think I should be doing my valve springs or standard ones should be fine.

  6. #6
    gordon lasiter #328's Avatar
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    good advice

  7. #7
    jetpilot785's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danmak View Post
    Thank you so much for you in depth detail I might go with what you said since it has worked for you just one other thing with my setup do you think I should be doing my valve springs or standard ones should be fine.
    You are very welcome!

    The stock springs and retainers are fine with stock cams and I also believe the RC1's and N/A cams. When you start getting into RC2's and beyond in specs, you will run into spring binding issues with the stock springs and that is when you would upgrade. I am running the RC2's with the R&D dual springs with R&D modified guides and titanium retainers and they work very well. I was using the stock retainers with the dual springs initially but I was also gambling they would stay intact. When I had the 5 angle valve grind and guide modifications, I upgraded to the titanium retainers at that point as I was hearing rumors that the steel retainers would break from time to time with the added spring pressure so I didn't want to risk it at this stage of the game.

  8. #8
    fx160's Avatar
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    i ran a c1 with the stock prop and got 81 mph at 8,550
    i then tryed a 13/23 and got 78 mph at 8,100
    so i would sugest you run with stock prop first to get some base numbers
    i also had an aftermarket intercooler fitted
    i didn't feel there was enough of a performance gain over stock so kept the 13/23 and ran an et low boost wheel to get it to spin 84.5 at 8,550 (limiter was set at 8,550)

    kev
    Last edited by fx160; 04-10-2012 at 12:28 AM.

  9. #9
    jetpilot785's Avatar
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    The stock prop does work with that setup as well but I found it has way too much cavitation. It has too much cavitation for my liking on a stock machine let alone a modded one even if it is on the mild side. You can certainly get decent upper end numbers with that setup with the stock impeller but the longblade has way better feel and efficiency averages across the board. Unless the OP only cares about the absolute peak number, he will like the feel of the longbland IMO. Besides, if he feels it needs a little more top end, he can always tweak it to a 21.5 or a 22 on the trailing edge to gain that extra 150-200 rpm which will put him right about 79-80ish and still have better hook up and efficiency with the long blade with the desired topend. Choosing a prop is like choosing the ski. It comes down to personal preference and feel but with al the testing I have done on this unit and over the years on maby other units, I still feel IMO that the skat long blades have a great all around feel to them for the everyday rider. Nothing wrong with the stock prop or any other prop that has or will be recommended, that is just my opinion and since the OP and I have extremely similar setups, I feel he will not be disappointed with the 13/23 Pro Pitch. R&D also has 12/22's but I am not sure if they are longblades. I ordered a 13/21 awhile back and it was a standard length blade and the 12/22 has a similar part number so that makes me believe they are of the same design. Also keep in mind that if you order a prop from R&D, they repitch them for free so if the OP decides he wants a longblade but shallower angles, he just tells Glen to repitch it before he ships it and then he is cooking with crisco when he gets it. If it were me, I would have glen make it a heavy 21 or a light 22 before he sends it and it should be just about on the money.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by jetpilot785 View Post
    The stock prop does work with that setup as well but I found it has way too much cavitation. It has too much cavitation for my liking on a stock machine let alone a modded one even if it is on the mild side. You can certainly get decent upper end numbers with that setup with the stock impeller but the longblade has way better feel and efficiency averages across the board. Unless the OP only cares about the absolute peak number, he will like the feel of the longbland IMO. Besides, if he feels it needs a little more top end, he can always tweak it to a 21.5 or a 22 on the trailing edge to gain that extra 150-200 rpm which will put him right about 79-80ish and still have better hook up and efficiency with the long blade with the desired topend. Choosing a prop is like choosing the ski. It comes down to personal preference and feel but with al the testing I have done on this unit and over the years on maby other units, I still feel IMO that the skat long blades have a great all around feel to them for the everyday rider. Nothing wrong with the stock prop or any other prop that has or will be recommended, that is just my opinion and since the OP and I have extremely similar setups, I feel he will not be disappointed with the 13/23 Pro Pitch. R&D also has 12/22's but I am not sure if they are longblades. I ordered a 13/21 awhile back and it was a standard length blade and the 12/22 has a similar part number so that makes me believe they are of the same design. Also keep in mind that if you order a prop from R&D, they repitch them for free so if the OP decides he wants a longblade but shallower angles, he just tells Glen to repitch it before he ships it and then he is cooking with crisco when he gets it. If it were me, I would have glen make it a heavy 21 or a light 22 before he sends it and it should be just about on the money.
    Once again thanks for your help. Your right stock prop has way to much cavitation that's why I want to change so your option if it was you is a r&d pro pitch 13/23 should I try it as is or re pitch it before I get it.

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