Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Magnolia, TX
    Posts
    18

    #3 cylinder and piston trashed

    02 XLT1200. Apparently the oil line for #3 came loose(as I've read so far is very common) and noticed no power. I pulled each individual plug boot to see maybe which one made no change in idle speed. Determined it to be #3. Pulled the plug and the gap had been smashed shut.

    Got it home and shined a light into the plug hole and top of piston looked bad. Put a pick tool into hole and could wobble piston around a lot.

    Tore it down, to find the piston was melted down, broken skirt and the cylinder was also damaged next to the exhaust port. Pretty deep gouge about 1/2" wide.

    The other two cylinders look OK.

    So now what? Just rebuild #3 or get a whole rebuilt engine. Not sure how many hours are on this engine as I bought it used in 07 and I haven't put maybe 100 or so hours on it myself.

    About getting the metal out of the lower case(don't really see any) how to do that? Shopvac?

    And is the lower case for each cylinder connected together or are each seperated from each other?

    Don't want to spend a ton of money though because I don't have a tone of money to spend.

    But with one piston at $100 , gaskets, sleeved cylinder or a good used cylinder etc......

    I did see on Ebay that PWC engine has a rebuilt long block for $1299 with exchange.

    I've rebuilt motorcycle engines , cars , trucks, but never a jet ski engine. Just don't want to get ripped off of money I don't have.

    Thanks

    ETA- PICS AND COMMENTS

    Is that head usable? I was thinking about grinding it back flat. The sealing surface is ok just the chamber is really rough.
    I don't know about the cylinder. It has some gouges if you can tell from the pics, they are fairly deep.
    I wonder if Millenium Tech can fix that?

    I do plan to pull the engine and inspect the case, and give it a good wash with varsol (parts cleaner for the youngin's)

    Will also rebuild the carbs and might install a D plate if funds allow.

    So what do ya think?

    Thanks




    Just noticed the crack in the skirt on the cylinder. Doesn't look good
    Last edited by codyboy; 04-11-2012 at 02:06 PM. Reason: add pics


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Magnolia, TX
    Posts
    18
    Just to add, I did have a problem with running it on the hose and all the cylinders were full of water. That was blown out and it ran but when I pulled off the cylinder there was still some water down in the crankcase. But I don't think this caused the melt down.

    I think it happened last year during the drought. Took it out, the warning buzzer went off for overheating I think. Found some grass around the impeller area and just assumed it was that causing the overheating. Never put it in the water again last year because the lake was too low. It seemed to run fine on the hose but in the water it had no power and thats when I found out it was trashed.

  3. #3
    Almost's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cape May, NJ
    Posts
    778
    +1
    73
    I hate to say it, but it looking at a full rebuild to do it right. If the piston is as bad as you said you most likely got metal in your crank case. Even if you can't see it and its just metal dust it is a quick way to blow out your crank by not at the very least shipping the crank out to be rebuilt. The water in the cylinders is probably caused by the head getting smashed with all the loose metal. How many hours are on the motor? Also if you post some pictures you will got alot more help.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Magnolia, TX
    Posts
    18
    I think the water in the cylinders was caused by my stupidity in running the water hose without the engine running and flooding the exhaust.

    I don't know how many hours.....I can't see the display and scroll thru without cranking it over. And thats not really possible now that I have the head and cylinder off. I would say less than 200 hours though.

    I know at the very least the cylinder will need to be sleeved, piston, rings, bearing, pin, and also the head has pits from flying debris.

    Can you tell me if each lower end at the crank is sealed off from the other cylinders. I would think so being a 2 STROKE.

    Thanks

  5. #5
    Almost's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cape May, NJ
    Posts
    778
    +1
    73
    Yeah thats definitely where the water came from then. You would be better off sending that cylinder off to get re-plated. Sleeved cylinders runner hotter and are just not as good as the nikasil plating that comes from the factory. Couldn't answer your crank question, but do your self a favor and send it out for a rebuild. You could probably get away with that at min, but you should really consider doing the other 2 pistons if it has more then 100 hrs and do the carbs why you have the whole thing apart. Short cuts will only come back to haunt you. What if you put it back together and loose another piston because it catches the porting or spins a ring? Your back to square one and out the money your going to be spending right now. Look in the project section and go through some rebuild threads lots of good info. Also hit the classifieds on this board you can get some really good deals.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Magnolia, TX
    Posts
    18
    Found a rebuilt long block for $1299 at PWC Engine which looks to be a pretty good deal.

    And it has a warranty. I think I would be close to a grand if I just rebuilt that one cylinder and replaced the pistons in the other 2.

    Just didn't want to have to spend that much.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,274
    +1
    81
    A rebuild is your best bet. If any water at all stayed inside the engine for any time, you will have rust on the bearings, and it would not last long when next running. Water can get from cyl to cyl thru the labrinith seals on the crank, as well as thru the crossover in the intake manifold. Also you said you ran the hose without the engine running, water in all places then. Sorry, these things do add up to big money in a hurry. (don't I know, I just rebuilt 2 XXL's I bought not running, thinking at first just carb problems)

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Magnolia, TX
    Posts
    18
    So does anyone know anything about PWC Engine rebuilds?

    Looking at this one. http://www.pwcengine.com/products/Ya...lt-Engine.html


    Or know about any other places to get a rebuild?

    Thanks

  9. #9
    Get er' rebuilt brother! My bud and I just picked up a 2004 Yamaha SUV 1200 with a blown motor (same thing...#3 fried). I told him that it wouldn't hurt to pull the head and look at what was going on. What we found was that #3 had the busted skirt and #1 had a minor amount of aluminum melted on the cylinder walls. Everything was within spec to just have honed out...so we had that done. Threw in 2 new pistons, bearings and new rings on #2, new head gasket, base gasket...about $350 or so including some shop supplies and minor tool purchase.

    Then, I decided to use the wise wisdom of the forum members here and blocked off the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold (rubber shower pan liner across the holes and re-mounted the triple carbs and the inspection block for the exhaust) and blocked off 2 of the 3 pulse lines...sent 6 psi of air into the engine and "Hissssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss". There was a crack in the very bottom of the crank case under the cradle mount (the mount that connects to the motor mounts in the hull). We didn't see that while originally working on it. That piston skirt must have been smashed into the bottom of the crank case with the crank arm on its way down. Anyway, if you had a busted skirt...that chunk of material is somewhere...right?

    When we had a mechanic break the rest of the engine down for us he found that the crankshaft had melted aluminum on it and the bearings were contaminated. $350 for a new crank plus shipping, another new head gasket and base gasket plus $160 in welding cost (case had a crack that went through the aluminum grid pattern on the bottom).

    By the time this is all over with, my buddy will have right at $1100 invested re-built locally. If you can get one for $1200 that has a warranty, save yourself the time IMHO. Just my 2 cents.

    IF, and I mean IF you do decide to do it yourself, make sure and do a leak-down pressure test on the finished product before you put it in your hull. In fact, if you are able to just put yours back together with or without the pistons, it may be worth your time to seal that thing off and pressure test it to see if there are any leaks. I wish I would have done that on my bud's before I ever unbolted the cylinder head. Again, this is just one garage mechanic yammering so take it for what it is worth.

  10. #10
    ?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1200 Engine.jpg 
Views:	347 
Size:	74.4 KB 
ID:	268547  

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. WANTED: Genesis i cylinders and pistons
    By cougar in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-10-2008, 03:23 PM
  2. WTB: 1050 cylinder and piston set up
    By Piranha Performance in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-14-2008, 10:20 AM
  3. WTB 1300r Cylinder and piston
    By alex29573 in forum Yamaha Classifieds
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-26-2008, 03:52 PM
  4. WTB: 1300R rear cylinder and Piston
    By LS2000 Cop in forum Yamaha Classifieds
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-12-2008, 11:37 PM
  5. what are my 66e cylinders and pistons worth?
    By WaveDemon in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-11-2007, 06:06 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •