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Thread: Iowa SLT750

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    DSM, IA
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    Iowa SLT750

    Well, I am in to it. And looking forward to the adventure. There is a lot of good information here and a lot of generous people. Here's my deets:

    Where u from? DSM, IA
    what kind of ski Polaris
    what year 1995
    what kind of engine Fuji 750
    how many hours on the meter? Don't know yet as bettery is shot.
    how long did it sit Unsure. Lincensed through 2005. Yeah, could have sat A LONG TIME
    any new/modified parts on it. Looks stock
    recent tune-ups or rebuild. See previous
    general history of the ski if you know. friend bought to repair and is moved out of town and didn't want to take with. Said person(s) he bought from couldn't get it to start. Used the trailer from the ski to sell with another ski he had. Read quite a bit here before handing over the cash. Ready for what comes of this.
    price. $200.
    comes with trailer? No, but purchased solid trailer seperately for $285.
    live on water? Not certain. Understood it was at Lake of Ozarks in MO for periods.
    did the ski run on saltwater or normal lake water? Lake water
    compression numbers? Don't know. See below.
    does it run? No
    Pictures,videos?
    mechanical knowledge. Wrench own autos and small engines.
    tools. Yes, I like tools. In fact, I like air tools and am not afraid to use them.

    I am anxious and excited to get on this, but want to do it right to not make stupid and costly mistakes. Want to make sure my time and money are well spent. Yes, I do understand that this ski is old and will take money to get going and maintain.

    First two questions are:

    1. Can I use a 12v car battery to do the compression check? I know once I get it running I will need a PWC battery. Too high of voltage? Don't want to burn anything up.

    2. Since this ski hasn't run in a long time, what precautionary measures should I take before running my compression check to not harm the engine? drop a bit of oil in cylinders? Other thoughts?

    Thanks for your time. Can't wait to get started!

    Darin~DSM


  2. #2
    urugol's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!

    You can use a car battery for cranking to conduct a comp test.

    Ensure your plugs are grounded when you do it.

    Don't add oil to the cyls, you will always increase comp with oil and you need a proper reading. Should be around 120lbs per cylinder or more.

    If you are down on comp, you can then add a little oil to see if comp comes backup - if so this could mean your rings are worn. If it doesn't, then its something more serious.

    Use the search function there are lots of threads on comp testing here

  3. #3
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Make sure you can turn the motor over by hand before you try and start it. If it has been sitting, might be frozen. I would pull the pump too to make sure it turns freely if you cant turn the motor over with the pump attached. Pull the flywheel cover and check the condition of the flywheel. If it is extremely rusty, there may have been water sitting in the ski and may be water in the bottom of the crank. Don't want to turn over the motor with water in it and potentially knock it out of index.....

  4. #4
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    If you connect it to a car battery, do not have the car engine running while doing it. You might damage the stator or CDI if you jump it with the car engine running.

  5. #5
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    I would say at least spray some fogging oil down the carbs prior to testing compression. At minimum, that will allow oil to splash around on the crank bearings so you're not running things dry.

    Welcome to the Hulk!!!!!

    KJ

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    DSM, IA
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    Comression Good

    All, thanks for your quick responses. I have been busy with life so haven't gotten to work on her until today. Bought a good AGM battery a week ago. Got battery in tonight and ran compression check.

    MAG 129
    CEN 129
    PTO 121

    Results the same on second pass. Did spray a shot of fog in the carbs.

    Ski has 159 Hours on it.

    What next....

    Do I dare try and start/run it with its age?

    Looks like I will replace fuel pump as triple hasn't been installed. Fuel lines have been switched out with Gates brand braided. I probably should think about rebuilding carbs with the age and the unknown? I didn't check crank index....

    Lemme know whatcha think. Again, I want to do it right.

    ~Darin

  7. #7
    Banned User
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    Do the fuel pump, and carbs and see what you have. Probably wouldnt hurt to try and start it now, but you dont want to ride it until all of the fuel system updates have been done.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    DSM, IA
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    Finally got opportunity to work on ski today. Carbs are loose. How do I best disconnect the oil pump control rod? Manual says "pull rod end straight out." Looks like it permanently damages the rod or ends. Is there a way to do it without damage? Does it matter if it's damaged?(that sounds dumb/ignorant) Gonna need gaskets for this thing. Where's the best place to get them? Would rather buy than make.

    Just looked at the date of the previous posts and based on my current time line I should have it in the water late June.... 2013.

    Thanks,
    Darin

  9. #9
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    There's a plastic clip securing the oil control arm to the throttle linkage. CAREFULLY slip the arm out of the clip and just pull out the arm.

    You don not want to damage it.

    Gaskets can be had at many places. I like the Cometic top end gasket set for around $65 shipped.

  10. #10

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    Mar 2012
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    DSM, IA
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    Control arm slipped out nicely! Disassembling carbs now. What's a secret to loosening/breaking the valve body screws? Don't want to strip the heads. The carb covers were a bear because of the paint. Please advise. Thanks, Darin

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