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  1. #1

    2000 stx DI wont stay running

    my 2000 STX DI wont run. I had the EMM rebuilt from DFI , I replaced the TPS sensor, new spark plugs , I have fuel coming to the injectors and to the return. They ski will start and run if i dump gas into the flame arresor.

    If I take the spark plugs out and crank it shouldnt I get gas blowing out the spark plug holes from the injectors?
    I do not get anything. It is all 3 of them so I am not inclined to think the injectors are all bad?

    anyone have some insite as to what to check/do next?


  2. #2
    SCSFAB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    See if you can find someone with a working EMM and swap out. I've had to return rebuilt ones , and I'll bet that's still your problem.

  3. #3
    I replaced the crank sensor and the ski runs. my only problem now is i get a check engine light warning.
    the ski idles at 2500rpm

    I do not have a kawi dealer close, so i am going to have to look for some free software and a cable to pull the codes.

  4. #4
    More than likely it is the EMM that is going bad. The software/cable will not tell you when EMM is bad. It always points finger at something else like CPS, injecotors, coils, etc. It's very deceiving.

  5. #5
    Is that idle speed in water or out of water? Mine idles pretty high also when out of water, but drops down a bunch in water. The error light you are getting could be a residual light from the crank position sensor or something else. If it doesnt pick up any more codes that light will eventually turn back off.

  6. #6
    There is no such thing as residual error light on DI ski. If the check engine light is on, it means the problem is current/active.
    Also, high idle rpm means a possible incorrect fuel mapping (too rich) program in EMM when it got rebuilt/reprogrammed.

  7. #7

    I have the software, i am just trying to find or make a cable to test and reset codes

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    likey a fault in the 45v system. I'd be looking at the stator with raised eyebrows..easy to check with a good quality voltmeter I haven't had a dud yet from DFI btw and the've done a bunch of emm's for me since I got back into the business. You can follow the troubleshooting steps outlined in some good material posted in the Polaris section including how to read the codes from the EMM using a cheapo LED/jumper setup..just beware. as previously mentioned.a series of codes that don't seem to make sense point to a EMM defect..not a bunch of bad components

  9. #9
    Took mine out for the first time this year and had a little trouble initially getting it started. On mine anyway I found it is very sensitive to battery voltage. If it doesnt start within just the first couple of seconds the display will start flashing the battery light while cranking. I had to crank mine about 4 times to finally get it to start and keep running, it would start but then immediately die. When it did finally start, and was flashing the battery light while cranking, I got a check engine light. Ran it for a bit and light was still on, shut it down and restarted still had light. Shut it down again, shut down master power witch for about 30 seconds and then restarted and check engine light went out. You may want to double check your battery is fully charged and in good condition.

  10. #10
    Your observation of battery on DI is correct.
    DI FICHT system heavily depends on electricity unlike any other ski.
    The ECU (aka EMM) has many electronic components inside that are very electron hungry.
    Any drop in voltage level will cause either hard starting, unstable idling, and/or battery low symbol and/or check engine light to flash.
    For example, the ECU/EMM has 17-amp injector driver chips to drive the 2400-psi injectors, 3 of them!

    The black round cylindrical shape with blk/wht label is the injector, 10+ times bigger than 4 stroke skis' injector which is just a valve/nozzle.

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