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  1. #1
    Sooo...how much for the 780? stimpsonjcat's Avatar
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    Maintenance updates to 96 780SLT - build goals and progress

    I love this place already, but I have a few questions I can't seem to find answers to in the general FAQs and such and would like opinions if anyone has any.

    -Any particular fuel line I should use? Just anything ethanol rated?

    -Any particular oil line I should use? Do the auto parts stores even carry a usable product for the oil pump circuit hoses?

    It's a fair amount of work to tear this thing down and I wouldn't have any issue with an 'upgrade' to these components if it is worth it.

    I think I will alter this thread to be about all the goals I have for this ski update.

    -Rip out old fuel line (done)
    -replace with new fuel line (done)
    -rebuild carbs (done)
    -rebuild gas pump (done)
    -remove old oil lines (done)
    -replace oil lines (done)
    -repair busted MFD (done)
    -add hose flush hardware (done)
    -add tow shut off valve (bought hose pliers instead)
    Last edited by stimpsonjcat; 06-01-2012 at 02:13 PM.


  2. #2
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    I use these on mine:
    http://www.watercraftsuperstore.net/...uel-Lines.html

    1/4" ID for the fuel and 1/8" ID for the oil. One 25ft roll of 1/4" should almost do 2 skis.

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    I personally prefer the reinforced fuel hose you would get from an autoparts store. Not as pretty as the clear stuff, but very durable, long lasting, and works great for either positive or negative pressures. (pulse line has both) Just make sure they don't try and sell you the overpriced fuel injection fuel hose.


    I don't think they would have the oil hose. You'll need to most likely order that.

  4. #4
    Sooo...how much for the 780? stimpsonjcat's Avatar
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    Wow 16k posts...OK, generic ethanol resistant black autoparts hose it is!

    Where can I get the oil supply line online? I searched the link loonatik posted, but I see no 1/8" stuff there.

    I found it on amazon, will this work OK?
    http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Tygon-F...4884089&sr=8-2
    Is 10 feet enough? (I don't have the oil lines off yet)

    And how about these to clamp the lines?
    http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-Clips-L...4884089&sr=8-4

  5. #5
    Sooo...how much for the 780? stimpsonjcat's Avatar
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    I did a compression check tonight and the results are:
    MAG - 110
    CEN - 140
    PTO - 140

    This means MAG is 30% off the others. I think I read this is the upper limit of acceptable variance? I didn't do a leak-down, but it wasn't dropping while I glared at it for 5 minutes. Should I tear into the front cylinder?

    Peaking thru the spark-plug hole, all of the piston tops look like there is NO carbon on them at all, which means rich.

    I'm tempted to rip the tops off the heads and take a look at least. What does a set of gaskets and rings cost for a 96 780SLT? Or where should I go to price/buy these? I do not see at Watcon.

  6. #6
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    EMail or call John @Watcon. He has everything you need. The 140 number seems kid of high, but that kind of variance says there is a problem. I would at least pull the MAG head and have a look.

  7. #7
    Sooo...how much for the 780? stimpsonjcat's Avatar
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    The CEN and PTO cylinders were wetter than the MAG. I guess I could 'wet' the MAG and test it again, would that be more 'fair'?

    Also these are 'cold' numbers.

    Oh, another question. If the MFD is dead, does the ski operate in limp mode? The reason I ask is I know the previous owner used the ski several seasons with no apparent issues with a non-functional MFD. I am guessing the dead MFD doesn't cause the 4200 RPM limit?

  8. #8
    I transcend race Hombre! TBone14's Avatar
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    Unplug it to verify - it doesn't need an mfd to run

  9. #9
    Sooo...how much for the 780? stimpsonjcat's Avatar
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    Thanks Tbone!

  10. #10
    Sooo...how much for the 780? stimpsonjcat's Avatar
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    More data.

    I squirted some fogging oil into the MAG cyclinder and it's compression went to 140 like the others. I called John and he said if they were wet those numbers were OK for that motor. So no cylinder tear downs are imminent.

    How do the carbs come off?
    One at a time or do you pull the manifold loose?
    Taking a quick look it seems there are bolts thru into them from the bottom?
    It looks like adjustment screws up near the intake (Low or high?) are all adjusted exactly the same. The flat is the same angle on all of them anyway. I will mike the gap on them before disassembling to see if they are all on the same turn.
    The lower screws with the thru-pins are close to the same, but the PTO is probably a quarter turn out from the other two.

    I also got some brass fittings and brass ball valve and added a hose connection from the water rail. So does this allow for running the ski for extended periods out of the water? Or are there bearings etc that don't get properly cooled without being in the water?

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