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  1. #1

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    Kaw_Ultra_250x Supercharger belt questions

    I was advised to try here on this forum to see if anyone could help answer my questions.
    I tried on a few other forums on this site without any luck. Hope to get a little incite, thanks in advance...

    All,
    My supercharger belt has gone out and had to take in for repair.
    My ski has 92 hours on it and I had the 100 hr service completed at 85 hr's.
    They are telling me it will cost $850 dollars to repair due to the plugs fowling and the oil being saturated with gas- so the have to replace plugs and oil change again.

    I am a little unhappy and think they should have been able to to tell me the belt needed changing at the time of the service was performed.
    Any help and guidance will be much appreciated

    What is the life span of the belt for the supercharger?
    What is a reasonable cost to replace if it goes bad?
    What is the typical procedure to check belt at the 100 hour service interval?

    Thank you


  2. #2
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    Quick run as fast as you can and go to a new dealer. There charging you more then double what it should cost.
    If u are mechanically inclined at all u can do it your self its easy. And it will cost u all of 75$ in parts. It's. 2-3 hr Job
    Belts typically last about 80-100 hrs.
    You can also run cr9eix plugs witch will run u about 40$ vs 100 for the Kawi factory plug.
    And oil and filter should. Be like 30$.

    Once again if u don't feel comfortable doing the work run as fast as u can from the dealer.
    Also on ur ski u should change the oil every 10hrs do to fuel dilution issue

  3. #3
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knic1 View Post
    I was advised to try here on this forum to see if anyone could help answer my questions.
    I tried on a few other forums on this site without any luck. Hope to get a little incite, thanks in advance...

    All,
    My supercharger belt has gone out and had to take in for repair.
    My ski has 92 hours on it and I had the 100 hr service completed at 85 hr's.
    They are telling me it will cost $850 dollars to repair due to the plugs fowling and the oil being saturated with gas- so the have to replace plugs and oil change again.

    I am a little unhappy and think they should have been able to to tell me the belt needed changing at the time of the service was performed.
    Any help and guidance will be much appreciated

    What is the life span of the belt for the supercharger?
    What is a reasonable cost to replace if it goes bad?
    What is the typical procedure to check belt at the 100 hour service interval?

    Thank you
    were are you located ?

    Waz

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Fire0021,
    Thanks for the reply.
    I was figuring the same thing on the charges. You are pretty much spot on for the charges on the plugs and oil/filter change.
    If what you are telling me about the lifespan of the belt it should have been recommended to me that I replace at the time of service.

    I am mechanically incline but due to my schedule makes it tough to get most things done in a timely manner.
    What you have shared with me will give me ammunition when I dispute all the charges.

    Thanks again.

  5. #5

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    sirbreaksalot , I am located in Tampa Bay, FL

  6. #6

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    Update.......

    Well have been able to take My ski out after the belt was replaced.
    It ran great seemed to be a little quicker on take off and was not being left behind by my friends 2010 Yammi SHO.
    A matter of fact it seemed to be a littler faster but a little tough to tell in the rough waters.

    I am a little torqued at the dealer I went to. (Power Sports of St Pete)
    Final bill was $850 when all was said and done- Will not be going back....

    I could go on about what made this last experience with this dealer very unpleasant but no need to rant, I am sure most of you understand.
    If they would have thrown out the water test charge I would have been a little more tolerant. ( I understand about overhead of running a shop)
    • Gave ski back with grease all over it.
    • Broke glovebox clip where key goes.
    • Ski was dirty and had sand all over(was clean when I brought it in/washed and flushed)
    • Water test charge of $115 that was not explained at any time.($90 for labor and $25 for gas/ski had half a tank when I dropped off since only road it for a few hours and empty when returned)
    • Charged for new plugs and oil change(only charge me for parts supposedly)
    • 5.5 hours to chnage belt only


    On another note I have a couple of questions.
    Fogging the SC
    1- Should this be done regularly? (The service manual states every storage or when not in use for 30 days) Would like your thoughts...
    2- Can you recommend a brand?

    SC Bearing and Tension pulley's
    1- Can you service these parts?
    2- Should I just replace?

    Thanks for all the help.

  7. #7
    SAL08HO's Avatar
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    To bad I did not see this post earlier..Im In lakeland 30 minutes from you and would have been able to save you some money... PM me if you like I'll give you my number for next time!

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by knic1 View Post
    On another note I have a couple of questions.
    Fogging the SC
    1- Should this be done regularly? (The service manual states every storage or when not in use for 30 days) Would like your thoughts...
    2- Can you recommend a brand?

    SC Bearing and Tension pulley's
    1- Can you service these parts?
    2- Should I just replace?
    1- Should this be done regularly?
    In your area I would fog the s/c everytime after the ride in your area (very salty). However, it's not easy to do it on 250/260 if you have not done the fogging mod on your ski. If you do a search here, you will find some posts. Basically inserting an injection nozzle into the air intake hose front of the s/c.

    2. Fogging oil can be anything from cheap WD-40 to whatever. Some lubricant is better than nothing.

    If your ski doesn't have a fogging port mod, one way to prevent the s/c from corroding/seizing is to run the engine on the trailer as often as possible, like after riding, when you get hom, once a week, etc. - the idea is to expel the moist rich air in the s/c and in engine compartment, and make the s/c rotors dry.

    3. S/C bearing and tensioner pulley
    S/C Pulley (bearing) - Nothing you can do other than cleaning some rust off the pulley where the belt comes in contact. Eventually pulley bearing wears out and needs to be replaced. I would have replaced the s/c pulley when the belt was replaced. Like on some cars with a timing belt, it's a good idea to replace water pump and tensioner bearing at the same time. The s/c pulley P/N is 49079-3702.

    One thing you forgot to mention was the s/c pully damper which absorbs the rotational shock between the s/c and engine whenever there is a sudden accel and decel. That's the round plate front of the s/c pulley with the 5 black round rubber pieces (which wear out eventually). A worn out damper will greatly reduce the lifespan of the s/c belt because the belt would take up all the shock.

    Tensioner Pulley - It can be fully service since all individual parts are avail, unlike s/c pulley.

  9. #9

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    MGM,

    Thanks for the info. It s much appreciated.
    I will have to look a little closer at the pulley's and see if any corrosion or rust is apparent.

    I am with you on changing the SC pulley at the time of changing the belt.
    This whole experience has been enlightening to say the least.

    Thanks again.

  10. #10
    Been around for years...seen it all Kawi-Guy's Avatar
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    Hi guys,
    I have a question for you.................
    just changed my belt, but it looks too narrow, like it is missing one groove.
    Mine is a 2007 Ultra 250x, I ordered this belt ( 59011-3701 BELT,BANDO RIB-ACE )
    Can somebody let me know if theirs is a bit narrow or did I get the wrong belt ? It also seems a bit small. I'll post a picture tomorrow.

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