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  1. #1
    Evo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    S. Florida

    Lightbulb 04 Kawi STX F-15 risen from the dead but have electrical mechanical issues

    Hey folks,
    Thought I'd chime in for some assistance, at the same time I'll continue my diagnosis...

    As the story goes: Purchased a non-running 04 StX f15 w/ 9 Hours. With fresh battery it cranks over had spark. Shot ether in there & came to life, So obvious Fuel issue.

    No Fuel. So, I pulled Fuel pump, Swapped in one I had laying around from a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX (Turbo model), Pump Bench tested fine, Cleaned the Rust & scale off the Metal Pump housing, Drained 13 Gallons of old gas (Orange in color). Then reinstalled pump assembly. Removed Injectors, Sprayed w/ WD40 & shocked them w/ 12V to operate Pintels, They all flowed fine.

    Reassembled, Started ski, long cranking time, then she was alive. She has a rough and inconsistent idle, you can hear the IACV opening to compensate to keep it running, apply throttle & it dies. Modulate throttle aggressively you can maintain high RPM occasionally, but has no crisp linear power band. So I messed with this for an hour. I could at times hold it at 3k and then 4-5k, occassionally hitting 7k for quick blips, all while on flusher of course. so I have fuel/ Spark, it has to be a timing issue?

    I have a 2010 STX F15 here I'm rebuilding for a friend, So, as a quick remedy, thinking an issue with TPS sensor and not having a factory manual (waiting for one I ordered) , I swapped TB assemblies. I noticed Water in the Intake plenum?! So I vacuumed that out, reassembled w/ known good TB assembly & fired up, same symptom. I also swapped the ECU, Tried again, same symptom, Then tried the Relay, Same symptom. Occasionally the "Low Battery" will flash when cranking ski, Assuming the Voltage regulator is working correctly, Not sure how that would cause a Timing issue, I will test battery today for voltage while idling.

    Ive checked oil, It has moisture for sure, So I'm changing today till I get clean oil & all water out.

    Also, plugs appear fine, I will buy new ones today or tomorrow.

    Have not done a Compression test yet, Cannot find my Adapter, I'm looking this am or will buy another for quick remedy.

    The Engine backfires thru the Intake, Reason why the Airbox was cracked & busted for sure when I bought it.
    I assume its a timing issue. I downloaded the manual, Gonna try the Dealer mode for diagnostics, was curious if could be a Cam or Crank angle sensor? I have a donor ski here to swap parts, fortunately to expedite fix if electrical, so I can order correct parts.

    I've looked at the Plug wires also & their correlation on the Coils (Thinking someone could have swapped them?) they appear to be fine. PTO : 4-3-2-1 COILS: 1-4, 2-3

    Is it plausible that if the ski took on water, Hydro-locked, it could Jump timing? I do not know its history, only 9 Hours & otherwise looks like an unmolested ski that was stored for years.

    Any assistance or direction would be appreciated, I will forward any new findings as I work toward a solution.

  2. #2
    Evo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    S. Florida
    Ok, so lots of on lookers but no responses? Ideas?....

    Anyhow, I just attempted to set Dash to Dealer Mode for any trouble codes or Faults. Doesnt work? My Fuel gauge keeps warning, I suppose 5 gallons isnt enough on level ground? Well, Im going to pull the fuel sender clean it (Probably gummed up from old gas) then re-install, add more fuel if need be to keep light off. Then try again. The electronic Manual shows to turn ski on then HOLD the Set/Menu buttons for 3 sec, then can toggle between DLR/USER Mode, well doesnt work for me. So im back to square one, post back shortly.

  3. #3
    Fuel gauge will start to beep at approx. 40% remaining. 5 gallon is too little.

    In order to see the error code in the meter screen, the problem your ski is experiencing must be "active" AND it must have triggered one of the sensors that ECU recognizes. For example, mechanical problems like low compression or incorrectly set cam timing will not be recognized by ECU thus no error code.

  4. #4
    Evo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    S. Florida
    Thanks Meangreenman for the response. That makes sense, Much like the MIL triggered on a car or MC Ecu. And yes, I added 3 or so more gallons until the light went off. I did pull the sender to check it and its clean.

    Ok, Still couldn't do a compression check, No stores in my area carry a 10mm Comp adapter. Called my Mac Tools guy, Not on the truck, Local MC shops are closed Mondays... So, That was a no go.
    Step two, Hooked up a FP (Fuel Pressure) gauge in-line, BAM! There's the culprit 25psi. I had read previous threads were it was claimed 38psi minimum. So, with needle nose pliers I crimped return line to bump line pressure till my gauge read 45psi, Ran perfect, crisp throttle etc.
    Step three, removed the Fuel pump assembly, rechecked polarity on my pump, Tested my pump, all was good, So the Regulator is Deemed bad.
    Step four, Pull Fuel pump assembly from the 2010 Ski here for confirmation. Yes, in deed Pressure regulator is bad.
    Step five, Swapped my previous "Used" Mitsubishi Eclipse Fuel pump for a Walbro 255 I had for a project car. Next robbed the FPR (Fuel Pressure regulator) from my buddies assembly.
    Step six - ran ski for about 20 minutes on hose, ran great & between 45-50psi Fuel pressure. I also, wonder how I had back fires thru Intake previously & none now? Strange..
    I will build an Intake for it now, considering my Airbox was busted up. Riva's description of their kit gave me all the info I required.

    Last step, most aggravating of all, extracting oil from this thing. I ordered a nice extractor from WSM, haven't received yet, so I bought something "Claimed" to work, Garbage, actually I broke the plunger handle on it... :/
    I need to get the Milk from the crankcase. I siphoned all but perhaps 1/2 quart, Added new oil, Ran additional 20 minutes, now must drain and do again... Then I'll change filter.
    Approx how many times is necessary to get the Crankcase clean enough for no concern? I'm almost wondering if its possible that there's a gasket leak? perhaps water into the case somehow? So, when I run it to ciculate oil, heat it up, etc, Im actually just introducing fresh water? is this a common or known issue with this model?

    Thanks for any ideas.
    - Cheers

  5. #5
    Milky Oil - Depending how much water water got in there, but I've heard people having to do 4-5 oil changes.

    Internal Water Leak - One slight known issue is the stator cover gasket on the rear of the engine that might be missing or torn.

    Extracting Oil - Either WestMarine or Harbor Frieght sells one for $55-$60. The brand name is TEMCO.

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