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  1. #1
    sltx1050's Avatar
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    Polaris 1050 LR Module Testing

    i have a 97 polaris sltx 1050 and last season i realized that i was having spark problems, ended up trying holding the
    bilge pump button and the spark went back to normal so i figured my lr module was bad and i ended up buying a used one from
    a guy on the here and put it in and still no change! could there be anything else that cause this problem? at times i cant even
    get it to start without holding the bilge button! and some times after i get it running i can let go of the bilge button with no problems
    runs and idles great and other times it will run like crap! how can i test the LR Module?
    Last edited by sltx1050; 05-04-2012 at 06:11 AM.


  2. #2
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    Check the bolts holding the LR in the box. Thats the ground connection for the module. If the bolt it loose that can cause problems. When the engine is running, test the voltage on the orange wire with a voltmeter. Should be over 14 volts. If it gets too high, like 16 volts or more, the regulator is bad and the module needs to be replaced.

  3. #3
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Somebody shoot some holes in this logic as I may be wrong here:

    The LR module exists as I understand it to provide 1. Charging of the system battery via the yellow stator wire to red/purple 2. Powering of accessories via the orange wire. 3. RPM limiting functions via the grey wire if equipped

    Based on wiring diagrams, these are the only system components affected if the LR were to fail.

    The bilge button, when pressed, will provide a back feed link from the orange wire to the red/purple while cranking. If the red/purple voltage were low, the orange wire will actually provide a boost in voltage for the CDI allowing it to fire. When the bilge button is released, the CDI is back to relying on the battery for voltage and or the Stator / LR Module red/purple.

    I would also check running voltage at the red/purple and cranking volts at the battery.....

    Does any of this make sense?

  4. #4
    sltx1050's Avatar
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    Yes sounds about rite, I should be working on it today so I will let you guys know what I figure out

  5. #5
    sltx1050's Avatar
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    sorry i never post what i found so far i figured my battery is weak and i order a new sealed battery
    as soon as i get it in i will let you guys know what i figure out!

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  7. #7
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    Actually the CDI is powered off the orange wire on the domestic ignitions, if the service bulletin update was done. If you have a bad LR, pressing the bilge button bypasses the LR and powers the CDI. All the bilge button really does is connect the red/purple with the orange, bypassing the LR. You can also operate the trim while pressing the bilge button.

  8. #8
    sltx1050's Avatar
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    ok i got my new battery and i went out and installed it and i have good voltage from the battery but now i cant even get it to run so i tested the spark again no spark while cranking then i pressed the bilge button and i will get one spark thats it and another one when i let go of the bilge!
    any idea of what could cause this??

  9. #9
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    Sounds like a weak battery. Need over 10.6 volts while cranking

  10. #10
    sltx1050's Avatar
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    ya thats what i was thinking but i checked the battery with a meter while cranking it and i was getting 10.8 so the batterys good but
    im still having the spark problem! anyone else have a idea of what it could be??

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