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Thread: Buff the RXP?

  1. #1

    Buff the RXP?

    Hey guys, I have a question that I can't seem to find a clear answer for.

    My '08 RXP has been sitting in the sun a lot.. And has some pretty bad fading or oxidation.

    I'm very familiar with buffing/polishing car paint, but don't know if it's the same for a ski?

    Does anyone know the proper way of removing the oxidation and bringing back the shine on a ski?

    Thanks in advance!


  2. #2
    icdoo's Avatar
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    I use the compound I have which is for cars and works fine. 3m line of perfect-it products. The great thing about skis is the gelcoat is thick as hell so dont have to worry about going to far with it or burning edges. Start with a foam wheel and fine cut compound. Use heavier compound on light surface scratches with the wool wheel. I'm not a body man or gelcoat restoring pro by any means, but that works for me.

  3. #3
    MSRXP's Avatar
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    I use this....

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    ecpChris's Avatar
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    I don't know what your skillset is but I just recently wetsanded 2 very oxidized doos. I started with fine 400 grit and worked my way up to 2500 finished with Meguairs Ultra Cut Compound 105 (you can find at Advanced Auto). I then went to Meg's 205 Finishing Polish. Both skis look brand new. I will have to look for pics.
    You could always skip the wetsanding process but depending on how oxidized your paint is you may need it. Pm me with any questions in case I forget to check back on this thread

  5. #5
    AquaGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecpChris View Post
    I don't know what your skillset is but I just recently wetsanded 2 very oxidized doos. I started with fine 400 grit and worked my way up to 2500 finished with Meguairs Ultra Cut Compound 105 (you can find at Advanced Auto). I then went to Meg's 205 Finishing Polish. Both skis look brand new. I will have to look for pics.
    You could always skip the wetsanding process but depending on how oxidized your paint is you may need it. Pm me with any questions in case I forget to check back on this thread
    You should make a whole how-to thread complete with pics about this. Since there are many sun faded machines out there because people don't bother putting a cover on them.

  6. #6
    MSRXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AquaGuy View Post
    You should make a whole how-to thread complete with pics about this. Since there are many sun faded machines out there because people don't bother putting a cover on them.
    :I agree: in the how to section.

  7. #7
    MSRXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecpChris View Post
    I don't know what your skillset is but I just recently wetsanded 2 very oxidized doos. I started with fine 400 grit and worked my way up to 2500 finished with Meguairs Ultra Cut Compound 105 (you can find at Advanced Auto). I then went to Meg's 205 Finishing Polish. Both skis look brand new. I will have to look for pics.
    You could always skip the wetsanding process but depending on how oxidized your paint is you may need it. Pm me with any questions in case I forget to check back on this thread
    Also, if you apply a good coat of uv protectant wax once or twice a month, the fade won't reappear.

  8. #8
    Oh Lord, I've had more than my share of time with a buffer since 1992 But with the hard ass mountain water around here, it's tough to keep on top of the water stains! Ive neglected mine from a buffer standpoint and have only washed it with vinegar to keep the stains down a little....I really need to make a pass with a buffer and get it up to par at least so that I can stop wiping it with vinegar every couple months

    But I wouldnt suggest sanding with 400...especially to a bunch of newbs (no offense) who've never done this before. In the grand scheme of things, 400 is somewhat smooth yea. But from a buffing standpoint, thats starting pretty low (numerically). To put into perspective, 400 is what you use to shoot paint on to a car. 400's got some bite to it.
    Furthermore, these late model skis seem to have some pretty decent paint/clear on them these days, unlike all the older shit. While neglecting mine, I still dont show oxidation at all. The clear is still strong and shows no signs of breaking down. I wouldnt even bother sanding it first, and if I did (to remove the permanant hard water stains), I'd start at 1500 max, then finish with 2500. Anything less than 1200 is gonna potentially remove some clear, and if you remove too much clear, you compromise it's durability against the sun. Clearcoat needs it's depth to stay strong. If it just needs a shine, I wouldnt even use sandpaper....being that its a water toy, not a show car.

    The 3M rubbing compound is good stuff, yes. Stay away from any coarse "mud" and wool pads. Those items only make more work (more steps) for you since they'll dull shit up in the process, making you have to undo that dulling.
    Stick with foam pads and creamy stuff like the 3M mentioned for example. That 3M is very thick paste, and that paste alone should generate enough heat without making shit dull.

  9. #9
    ecpChris's Avatar
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    I will make a How-To Thread maybe this weekend. 400 grit is needed for heavy oxidation where the finish is already broken down and needs the top layer to be removed but I will explain that in detail so people don't go and take that to their hull. It should be done by a professional or someone with experience anyway. The Meg's 105 is great stuff and combined with the right pad people should not need to wet sand unless their paint is really bad. It will take out hard water spots as well.
    A safe way to try and shine your hull would be:
    1) wash the whole ski down with Dawn dish detergent
    2) Clay bar the paint using clay bar and instant detailer spray
    3) "compound" with Meg's 105 and an orange pad (or Surbuf R series pad). do small 2x2 spots and immediately wipe off the residue once done. Don't wait until you have done the whole ski to remove it
    4) wipe the ski down with rubbing alcohol and a microfiber cloth
    5) "polish" the ski with Meg's 205 and finishing pad and remove in the same method as above
    6) finish up with a synthetic sealant such as Blackfire Wet Diamond or Menzerna Power Lock. BFD is my favorite and lasts a while even in salt
    7) enjoy your blingin new ski and make sure to wash after you ride to keep up on it.

    Tips:
    use microfiber cloths only.
    be very careful to avoid getting compound/polish/sealant on plastics or it will look terrible.
    if you do not have experience with a buffer than use a random orbital buffer such as Porter Cable 7424XP. If you don't want to spend the money you can still get a good finish out of Meg's 105 and some elbow grease

    Any questions shoot me a pm

  10. #10
    ride it like you stole it!!! raceneked's Avatar
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    Mr. Clean "magic eraser" will remove the pasty white crud that wax leaves on the plastic...

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