05-03-2012, 08:08 PM #1
Which way to spin off Intermediate Shaft coupling
Tried to torque this off and it doesn't seem to want to "give up". This is in a yamaha 1200 non PV. The blades on the prop look like the prop turns counter clockwise. To me, that means that this coupling should spin off Lefty loosy but I'm guessing. Any ideas?
The I-shaft bearing housing is still mounted to the wall. I want to remove this black coupling to install a flywheel puller on the end of it to use against a bearing puller to yank the shaft off.
05-03-2012, 08:40 PM #2
You need to pull the pump to remove the drive shaft first. But to answer your question its right hand thread.
05-03-2012, 08:56 PM #3
I should have mentioned that I have been prying and yanking on the pump all day trying to get it out and it just won't come. The section just before the wear ring and the wear ring sections are loose left to right but trying to pry them out just isn't working. UNLESS I am supposed to remove the nut under the cone at the end of the prop shaft first. That...I have not done yet.
I just tried shoving a wood handle in the impeller to keep it from spinning and then put a long pry-bar down across the coupling and it started to spin counter clockwise. The prop is stationary, the coupling is NOT turning off of the I-shaft but the I-shaft is spinning counter clockwise as I turn it. I marked the prop shaft under the ski to see if it was spinning as I cranked and it has not budget a bit. Is it correct to assume that the coupling and the Ishaft are spinning off of something threaded...and if I keep spinning it, the Ishaft/coupling combo will come out?
Last edited by macGruber; 05-03-2012 at 08:58 PM. Reason: add pic
05-03-2012, 08:59 PM #4
The drive shaft is stuck in the coupler. Looking at the corrosion your last resort is to cut the drive shaft under the rubber hose to remove the pump and mid-shaft.
05-03-2012, 09:07 PM #5
Thanks Beerdart. I had read some previous posts indicating they almost had to do that as well. I wonder if it would do any good to try and put the nose of the ski low and remove the intake grate area and then spray a can of PB Blaster down the prop shaft all day to try and get some of it into that union between the 2 shafts? Is it correct to assume the prop shaft is male and the other junction is the female? Lastly, is that union right under that 9" rubber boot? If so, ATT sounds like the boot has to be sacrificed in the worst case scenario so might as well cut it out to spray PB right on the union...right?
05-03-2012, 09:19 PM #6
Correct the "Male d-shaft splins are in the mid-shaft under the bearing" PB might help but not likely.
05-04-2012, 12:23 AM #7
Definitely right hand threads. The couplers have been loctited on by the factory. I find a little heat from the torch until you see smoke coming out around the threads does the trick, then torque it off.
05-04-2012, 12:29 AM #8
I would leave the coupler on there. A standard torch will do, heat the intermediate shaft half way on the shaft for about 5 minutes. Get a small sledge or I use a brass hammer and hit the coupler. It will come off this way. I use to cut them, havent cut one in years. Try it, its usually the best solution or cutting it. I wouldint get involved with doing anything else.
05-04-2012, 12:40 AM #9
05-04-2012, 05:16 AM #10
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Base on your first picture, is the drive housing (the black part) loose or is it stuck?
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