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  1. #1

    Cold running issue: GP1200R

    Bought a GP1200R this last spring that had been sitting over the winter. Spent a good bit of money getting it and it's trailer aesthetically pleasing as it was sitting uncovered for a winter. Took it out for the first time in the late spring and it ran great as we zipped around a lake. We stopped once for a bit on shore and got off. Enjoyed the day and got back on. The ski would start and idle, but as soon as I gave it gas, it would choke itself out. If I opened the choke, it would not run at all. I have to throttle it for a good few minutes with a closed choke before it finally opens up and gets going. Once it's been running for a minute or so it is golden. I can play with it all I want.

    So the second time out was last week. It was a perfect day and the issue was still there. Had a blast, tearing it up on the lake. Stopped the ski and set up a hammock. Layed in the sun for a couple hours. Started up the ski to play around some. Starts and idles fine. Give it any throttle and it cuts fuel instead of giving fuel. I pretty much troll around in the water looking like a fool until I can get it to maintain some throttle. Eventually she is warm enough(I'm assuming this is the reason) to go WOT around the water. Once she is opened up, she gives no more issue. I can get off the throttle and troll around for a minute and open her right back up.

    So it begs the question, what could this be? I apologize if this is some common issue in advance. I am just happy knowing there is a forum for things like this.


  2. #2
    Almost's Avatar
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    Do not ride it anymore till you find the problem it could be running lean. If it has been sitting for awhile and neglected it is most likely your carbs. They need to be rebuilt. Order the mikuni kits and do it yourself, or send them to one of the gurus on the forums. Most likely it was sitting with old fuel and you have varnish and crud in your carbs. If you keep riding it like that chances are your going to burn up a piston and be out a lot of money.

  3. #3
    I'm going to be removing the Stinger to install Waveeaters. Are the carbs going to be easiest to remove at that point?

  4. #4
    I was reading that the stock flame arrestors help with the factory lean condition at 70% throttle. This ski has unknown mods, but I can plainly see riva flame arrestors on it. Would bringing it back to stock lower the chances of a lean condition? If so, who wants to trade their stock stuff for some Riva stuff.

    Also, could you drop the names of a guru on the board that could rebuild these carbs?

    I apologize for the edits, I just have allot of questions about this unknown modded ski. I read all of the scary engine failure scenarios and feel like I need to do all of the things to prevent this. This may sound silly, but I am currently running both the oil injection and pre-mix. This is not a permanent solution, I just had no idea if the oil injection system was safe so the couple of times I took it out, I wanted to make sure there was enough oil in the fuel to lubricate if the injection was not working. I've read as much as I could about oil mixtures and it seems that the drawbacks of too much oil is far better than too little.
    Last edited by Matt Ray Vasbinder; 05-16-2012 at 02:08 AM. Reason: Additional stuff

  5. #5
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    Osidebill is the man to contact about carbs,i would get them off to him and let him go through them and rebuild,i had two sets off him now and all i can say is WOW,and a true gentleman and very easy to deal with

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Hydrotherapy View Post
    Osidebill is the man to contact about carbs,i would get them off to him and let him go through them and rebuild,i had two sets off him now and all i can say is WOW,and a true gentleman and very easy to deal with
    Thanks Hydro. PMing him right now.

  7. #7
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    I would check into whether the Power valve servo is funtioning properly. If the power valves are stuck in the open position it will not run right on the bottom end and act like a complete dog, until you get it over 4500 then it will run like a raped ape. The fact it runs fine for awhile then starts acting up points me in this direction. If it were a carb issue it would always be the same.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    I would check into whether the Power valve servo is funtioning properly. If the power valves are stuck in the open position it will not run right on the bottom end and act like a complete dog, until you get it over 4500 then it will run like a raped ape. The fact it runs fine for awhile then starts acting up points me in this direction. If it were a carb issue it would always be the same.
    Hey Bill, thanks for the response. It seems temperature dependent to be honest. The issue is only in the first couple minutes of running after it has sit. I will however check the servo. Are the ohm specs in the service manual for the servo?

    Edit: Found the servo test. I will be running the test asap in the morning. Thanks again Bill, I will let you know the results.

  9. #9
    I also ordered new plugs and fuel filter for the sake of ruling out any issues there. Any check valves or rollover valves that are a common problem that I may want to check into?

  10. #10
    Julian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    then it will run like a raped ape.

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