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  1. #1
    grant22's Avatar
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    Picking up a 2007 ultra lx - some newb questions

    Hi, new guy here. I did a search on the ultra lx but very little comes up. I'm picking up a 2007 ultra lx with 15 hours and it's mint. I've ordered a service manual but won't be getting a regular owners manual. In the meantime, I have some inquiries I hope you guys might be able to answer.

    I believe the oil is a marine 10w-40. Correct?

    Is the maintenance based on hours or seasons? If hours, what's the next service after 15 hours?

    Is there some type of pump bearing upgrade I need to do.

    I'm leaving it stock for now, but in the future if I want to do intake grate and ride plate, are the aftermarket ones for the 250x the way to go?

    Any other basic must do mods? Not necessarily for more power but for just making the ski better.

    Thx for any help.


  2. #2
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    Do the 300x pump shaft upgrade ASAP
    Oil any decent 10/40 works does not have to be marine.
    Oil changes every 20hrs and spark plugs every 60+
    As for mods not much worthwhile doing besides a intake grate. It's a good ski if you maintain it.

  3. #3
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    If this is an Ultra LX, and is not a super charged ski you only need to change your oil every 50 hours. Do it by hours, not by season. Your plugs will last some where between 70-90 hours.
    Use waterproof grease on your throttle cable, steering cable, reverse bucket, etc. now & then. More often if you ride in salt.
    I use Mobil 1, 10-40. I can only find it in High Mileage form any more. In Havasu it gets hot so use 10-40. Change your filter when you change oil of course.

    This is an easy ski to maintain and is a very reliable and comfy ride. It also has good range if not riding WOT. Congrats on your ride.

    I would not bother doing any mods. The return for the $$ is simply not worth it. Ski is not a speed ski but a cruiser.

  4. #4
    grant22's Avatar
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    Thx guys. Yes, this is the non-sc ultra. I agree, not gonna try to mod it into something it's not. It's for the gf to ride while I'm on my 800. We plan on doing more 'touring' with them.

    If an intake grate helps it hook up more and not cavitate, then I'll be interested in that. Do I buy a 250x intake grate?

    I'll post pics when I get it in my possession. Thx for the tips.

  5. #5
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    Oil changes are up to you but oil is cheap.
    I know its non sc version. And would change more frequently but up to u. U can change the oil filter every other oil change Yes intake grate from the 250-260 will fit. R&d or tbm will give you the best rough water hook up. And all around performance also remove the plugs and apply anti seize.

  6. #6
    grant22's Avatar
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    I searched 'pump shaft upgrade' and 'bearing upgrade' and am striking out.

    Can anyone clarify what the upgrade is?

    I'll be at the dealer picking up the ski so I'd like to order the needed parts.

  7. #7
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    I only change oil every 50 as that is service spec and a non s/c ski does not have the oil contamination issues an s/c ski does. Oil is cheap but it is just turning color by the time I change mine. If you change less than 50 hours you may not need a filter, I don't know. But if you go 50 change it with oil.

    On the intake grate be advised you may loose 1-2 mph top speed but on a choppy day your overall speed would be better.

    If you do or do not upgrade your pump inspect it every 50 hours also. If there is any sign of water intrusion change the bearings and seals. If everything looks real good you can coat all surfaces liberally with waterproof grease and put back together. Torque all bolts to spec in your manual your getting. Use medium strength Loctite. It is important to do this. If the bearings fail it is possible that the impeller can drive the shaft forward and cause crank to also move forward and screw the bottom end. If you ever think your bearings are going south stop the ski. My 2007 STX12F has the same pump. A friend told me how to care for it and it has not been a problem yet. I just inspected mine and they look like new. I have 140 hours on them and about 50% is ocean riding.

    Your reverse bucket will have faded. When you do this you can get some el cheapo flat black rattle can paint and paint it when its off. (just looks better) I did mine 4 years ago and still looks good.

    I think the ski you bought is the best all around ski for reliabilty, perfomance, storage, towing tubes, fuel economy, etc. Have fun.

    You can easily make it from the bridge to Jack Smith Park and back if you go 40ish. Avi even if 35.Has about 100+ mile range. When you start beeping low gas, push the mode button and it will stop annoying beeping. You have about 7 gallons left, or 1/3 of a tank at that point Only 6 gallons of this can reach the fuel pump unless you install deep pick-up.
    Last time I rode LX was last weekend. Rode from Dana Point to Catalina and back on 1 tank. Started beeping at 6.3 miles out. It is about 75 miles round trip. Ski has good range.


  8. #8
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    Pull the spark plugs and put anti seize on the plugs. Kawis are known to break the plugs when removing.
    So the sooner u put the anti seize the better.
    Once u break a plug the head has to come off...

  9. #9
    grant22's Avatar
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    Wow, thx everyone. All very good info. I'm stuck at work here in LA and will pick up Monday.

    I really look forward to picking it up. I look even more forward to riding it. I think the gf will appreciate its smooth ride I've heard about.

  10. #10
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    Great choice for you. It does not require a lot of maintenance but will go along ways just doing basics. Great reliable motor.

    One more thing: If you ride Havasu and area alot at some point you may have trouble starting when having ridden for a while on a hot day. To avoid this try to remember to blip (chop, whatever you wanna call it) the throttle a bit just before stopping. This will blow excess water out of the water box. At times and particularly on hot days some moisture vapor makes its way back to the combustion chamber and it is enough to cause a no-start situation.
    If this happens to you take the seats off and wait a minute or two. Mine has always started after this when I took seats off and let air in engine compartment. Changing intake, deleting extra waterbox, (from 2 to 1) moving sensors, etc. will not always stop this from happening. It has happened to me around 6-8 times total since I have owned (bought new in '07) and have even had thicker exhaust gasket installed as a test to see if reduction in heat transfer would help. It has only happened once on the ocean.

    Stuck in LA? You work out here?

    Have a good one.

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