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  1. #1
    a13art's Avatar
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    transmission drive shaft " R.I.P " on 2000 xpl

    2000 seadoo xpl

    so during winter i did some work on my ski i re did all the fuel lines and cleaned out every filter, prok F.A, Jetted the carbs. long story short it was 90 out side the other day so i decieded to take out the ski and see how she runs. well ran great all day intill the last run, my 272000154 transmission drive shaft snapped the teeth from the egine and the shaft are all chewed up.

    Anyone ever have this happen to them?

    How does somthin like this happen?

    and is there any write up or how tos on this cause im a ok tech but this looks pretty advance?

    is there stronger ones i can buy so this never happens to me again?





  2. #2
    boosted-delslow's Avatar
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    Was there a rubber damper in there when this happened? You have to pull the engine to change that driveshaft.

  3. #3
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    The 99+ drive shaft update was a good design and I have run these with twin piped boats making lots of torque and revs through to surf boats that take a hammering and never had one fail . I have had the dampeners give out plenty of times.
    Can you turn the pump and engine freely separately just to rule out that it stopped due to a mechanical fault.
    Did it have the centre snap bushing in place ?
    Was the drive shaft pushed up hard against the coupler on the PTO (with about a 3mm gap ) because if it wasn't you are expecting the teeth to do all the work at the the ends instead of the base which will increase metal fatigue rapidly.
    I have had one do this in a twin pipe set up on a 98xpl due to having too much end play between PTO and Shaft.

    The driveshaft comes out through the rear.

  4. #4
    a13art's Avatar
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    i cant recall what it looked like befor however i can still start my egine and free rev it so that means it was A) a faulty part/ wear and tear or B) maybe the owner befor got work doen and wasnt done right. i just started to take the rear end off trying to figure out whats the best route to go cause there no point in undoing every screw if i can pull irtout by sections. and its not the drive shaft its the trans mission shaft but ithink i am still in the clear for coming out threw the tank hole and out he back. on the bright side i guess i will be buying a solo 15/20 concord prop since i have everyhtign taking apart.

  5. #5
    Wrench's Avatar
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    definately didnt have the spider dampner in there. if you pay attention you would of heard a clanking at idle and probably vibration

  6. #6
    a13art's Avatar
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    yea i pulled the t shaft out today. i was trying to feel around to see if i could find parts of the rubber but nothing so i doubt it was in there.

    so my next question is in order to get the other coupling off the flywheel i need to prevent the egine from spining is there a bolt in the front of te motor somewhere cause i couldnt find one. or is there another trick into unscrewing those. i guess i am just going to order the prop right away since i have it all taken apart. and pob send my head into rossier to have them due their head mod.

    wrench how do you like your adjust a thrust did you actully notice a dif with it?

  7. #7
    Wrench's Avatar
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    well to get that coupler off youll have to pull the flywheel cover off the front of the engine and put a wrench on the flywheel nut and a wrench with a breaker bar on the coupler. Well i had to take my concord 15/21 out cause i couldnt turn more than 6300rpm. I put the stock one back in and will see how it runs with that this weekend. I have noticed the top and mid power is a lot better, but no top right now.

  8. #8
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a13art View Post
    in order to get the other coupling off the flywheel i need to prevent the egine from spining is there a bolt in the front of te motor somewhere cause i couldnt find one. or is there another trick into unscrewing those.
    You can remove the coupler from the engine as long as you have at least one tooth left on the coupler ?

    If you have one left on there start by wedging a flat blade screw driver on the tooth and then under the centre alignment spigot that protrudes out and against the torque of the 6 bolts that you have to remove.

    Don't hold the front of the crank or flywheel and attempt to remove the rear coupler or PTO as this can twist the crank and render it useless.

    My guess is the reason why this happened is the engine wasn't set back far enough when mounted up and this loaded the shaft at the ends of the teeth.

    3 mm is the max i set them up for shaft end play.

    If the rubber dampener was not in there you would of heard it way before all this happened as it would of made a Hell of a screeching and groaning of steel against steel.

    Its probably in pieces under the engine.

  9. #9
    a13art's Avatar
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    they are aluminum... but i think i am in over my head a little might take it to a shop and have them do it .

  10. #10
    Wrench's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a13art View Post
    they are aluminum... but i think i am in over my head a little might take it to a shop and have them do it .

    Ya theyre aluminum

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