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  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Abaco Bahamas
    Posts
    6

    1999 Genesis cranks - doesn't fire

    After riding for a couple hours and everything running fine, I shut off the engine in preparation for loading it on the trailer and could not get the machine to start back up. It would turn over. Pulled it out of the water and pulled an injector to see if it was a fuel delivery issue but that does not seem to be the case. I suspect the start/stop switch is stuck in the stop position. Can anyone tell me if this would be in the button on the handlebars or is there a switch located somewhere in the electrical box? Any info on trouble shooting this issue would be greatly appreciated.


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    windsor ont
    Posts
    640
    +1
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    have you checked to see if the starter soloniod is getting power when the button is pushed

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Abaco Bahamas
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    6
    Quote Originally Posted by rr44red View Post
    have you checked to see if the starter soloniod is getting power when the button is pushed
    Thanks for the response.

    Yes. The starter engages and the engine turns over. I tried a starter button from another machine and get the same results.

    Does anyone have the name/phone number of a tech that still has a diagnostic computer for these machines? I guess I need to get the computer and electrical box to someone to be checked out. I live in the Bahamas and there isn't anyone over here that still works on Polaris.

  4. #4
    You most likely have a bad LR503 (start-stop module).

    Read here for directions to bypass it to verify that it is indeed bad:
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post1702474

    And if it is, replace it.

    I have one that will start a ski but not stop it (have to pull the lanyard). They can do weird things when they go out...

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Abaco Bahamas
    Posts
    6
    Thanks!! That is exactly the type of info that I was hoping to find on this site. I will give the bypass a try.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Abaco Bahamas
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    6
    Did the bypass procedure. When I tried starting again I got nothing. Since I have not tried to start it for such a long time I put a small amount of fuel directly into the throttle bodies to see it that would help. The engine started immediately and raced to high RPM for a second then settled down and idled fine. Pulled the lanyard for shutdown and she did. Next I put the LR wires back in place to see if it would not start like before. Initially it would not, but again when I introduced fuel directly into the throttle it started the same as before. This time I shut it down with the start/stop button. Still I could not restart the engine without adding fuel through the throttle.

    Is there an electric fuel pump that is supposed to deliver fuel before a mechanical one kicks in on startup?

    Thanks,
    S

  7. #7
    That ski is 100% electric fuel pump. No mechanical to be found.

    You have one of two problems (or both) -

    Either you have low fuel pressure from the pressure regulator falling off in the tank. Try partially clamping off the return fuel line and start it and see if it gets better. There are threads on how to fix the regulator or add an in-line one if that turns out to be your problem.

    The other possibility is a bad EMM which would give you low power to the injectors. Find a place to test voltage on the white/red wires going to the injects. There should be a splice block somewhere you can clip on to. You should see 20+ volts at cranking and 40 when it's running.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Abaco Bahamas
    Posts
    6
    Thanks again for your advice.

    Voltage check at the injector connection is only showing 13 volts when cranking and 26 to 30 volts when running. Can the EMM be repaired or does need to be replaced? Are there still EMM units out there for these machines? I have a service manual for the ski here and I am reading that Polaris diagnostic software is required when replacing these units. Is there anyway around that. It simply is not an option for me here in the Bahamas

  9. #9
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...23#post1144923

    The only thing you can do is verify that the capacitor is good. (Very unlikely to fail.) Put a meter on it, try cranking the engine. The voltage on the cap should rise and then slowly trickle off for a few minutes after you stop cranking.

    If that shows good, you need to have the EMM repaired. There's only one company that does this - DFI technologies. It'll run you about $600....they'll repair and upgrade it. After that it should be pretty much bullet proof as long as you keep the cooling lines on it.
    http://www.dfitechnologies.com/

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