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  1. #1

    Replacing all gunwale on a 2010 SHO

    I got my first 4 stroke this past saturday and the gunwale is not too bad but I want the ski to look good so I am looking it to replacing it. I have searched the forums and read about removing the foam and water having a better chance to get in the hull and also read the gunwale have rivets which kind of makes me not want to remove the gunwale. Will I have to pull out the old rivets? Or is it as simple as removing the existing nuts and hex bolts? What I really need to know is it something a noob can do or should I just leave the ski as it is. I will be replacing the 3 pieces up front and the 2 stern pieces in back. Thanks!


  2. #2
    Carbonic's Avatar
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    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=175&B=21 Should give you a good idea as to whats involved in what you want to replace. I havent had to swap anything out on mine as of yet but from the looks of things there isnt anything complicated about it.

  3. #3
    Thanks carbonic. Been looking their on the oem parts finder at those schematics. Might have to take a look under the hood tomorrow to get a better idea

  4. #4
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    Assuming the 09 FZR/S has about the same gunwale setup: You will have to drill out old rivets, but it's really easy to do. Do yourself a favor and order the OEM replacement rivets. They're cheaply priced and oddly sized (metric, I assume). They will install w/ any pop rivet gun, super easy.

  5. #5

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    Front gunwales are just held in with allen bolts. The rears are riveted in and are easy to drill out. I ordered the OEM rivets when I ordered new gunwales. I used a cheap tool from harbor freight and it was semi difficult to get them to seat right. I went through 2 harbor freight tools to get them on. There are a few rivets that are recessed further than my tool allowed, so I used a stainless nut/bolt for them.

  6. #6
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    I just used a cheap-o pop rivet gun I'd had for years. Had to squeeze the handles twice to get the rivets to seat snugly. My cheap rivet gun had two tips, just selected the slimmer of the two to install the OEM rivets.

  7. #7
    VinceC's Avatar
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    Don't be afraid of the rivets. I replaced all of my rub rails and the back is held by rivets that you cannot avoid rivetting unless you drill all of the way through and put a long bolt in. You will see what I mean when you do it. I liked that idea because I swap my old bumpers from the new when I ride rivers with locks. The black part just slides out of the groove and the rivets are behind the black rub rail. They are easy to take out with a drill bit just a little larger than the hole of the rivet and easy to rivet the new back on. You can't replace those rivets on the gray because the head of a screw will prevent the black rub rail from sliding through the groove.

    Which brings me back to the rear corner bumpers. A normal pop rivet gun won't work back there because the rivets are recessed in a hole smaller than the head of a typical rivet gun. Go have a look and you will see what I mean. You will almost certainly have to drill through all the way and long bolt through to inside of the lip unless you find a rivet gun smaller than any I have been able to find.

  8. #8
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    It's not a hard job. Some of the rivets(the ones that attach to the plastic piece beneath the bumper) are just a little tougher because you can't grab the back of the rivets to keep them from spinning while drilling. I used a small pair of angled needle nose to hold those from the front. Also, it IS possible to use a standard pop rivet tool on the recessed holes. It might vary from one tool to another, but I just unscrewed the adaptor tip a little so it would sit flush inside the hole. I also had to trim a bit from the OD of the tip with a dremel grinding stone to get it small enough to fit in the recess...no biggie.

  9. #9
    For the pop rivets around the back, if the nose of your rivet gun is too big around to go in the recessed part of the plastic gunwhale, just stack several small washers (about the diameter of the rivet--and small enough to go into the recessed part of the plastic gunwhale) on the nail protruding out of the rivet then put it in the gun and put the rivet in the hole ---- your gun then pushes on the washers instead of the rivet itself. As you squeeze the rivet gun, the rivet does its thing and the nail breaks freeing the small washers to use on the next rivet. May need 4-5 or more small washers-- just as long as you have enough of the "nail" part of the rivet in the rivet gun for it to pull on, it works fine. If you bought the OEM rivets when you bought the gunwhale, you will have plenty of nail length.

  10. #10
    Vroooooom! CougarKiller's Avatar
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    Good info guys.. I was kind of sweating yanking the rub rails to paint em

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