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  1. #1

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    Another sl900 with no spark.

    I am a newby to skis and this forum. I purchased a 1997 polaris Sl 900 that did not run. I bought a new battery and it would crank but no spark. I did some online research and found the great post about this issue and how to test everything. I did these tests and found that the only differences were the coils that test out at .8 ohms ( spescs said .35 ohms) and the charging coil just slightly higher then spec. Can anyone tell me if the coil readings are high enough to be the problem?


  2. #2
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    Does it have the updated ignition system on it? If it doesn't have that I would definitely do it.

  3. #3

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    yes it has the updated system

  4. #4
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    Check the battery voltage while cranking. I had a weak battery once and it actually fired and ran after pulling one plug.

  5. #5

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    the battery is new and gives 10.6 volts while cranking.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quacked1up View Post
    the battery is new and gives 10.6 volts while cranking.
    Unless that battery is delivering way more than 10.6 volts it is either discharged or defective.

  7. #7

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    I thought the specs said the battery should show 10.6 volts while cranking measured at the battery.

  8. #8
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    10.6 is borderline and the absolute minimum. You really should have more than that. Especially on the 3 cylinder domestics, thats why I like the Odyssey PC 625. Awesome battery and tons of power. I'm sure Keith will agree with that.

  9. #9
    stubburnjdh's Avatar
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    I would try what BryanP said and pull one plug and see if it fires. This will give you more cranking power.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quacked1up View Post
    I thought the specs said the battery should show 10.6 volts while cranking measured at the battery.
    You want MORE THAN 10.6 volts while cranking.

    The 10.6 volts is essentially an absolute minimum, and technically it is measured at the CDI since the CDI is the part that actually needs the voltage.

    A healthy battery should deliver something over 11 volts while cranking. The more over, the better.

    Measuring cranking voltage right at the battery is just easier than measuring at the CDI.

    There is always some voltage loss in the wiring, so measuring at the battery is going to show a slightly higher voltage than what the CDI is actually getting. To assure the CDI is getting enough voltage, you want to see the battery delivering well over 10.6 volts while cranking.

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