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  1. #1

    How do you remove carbs on a '98 1200 XL?

    I bought some rebuild kits for my '98 1200 xl and went to take off the carbs and I can't get to any of the bolts. It seems like the intake manifold needs to come off with the carbs on it in order to even un-bolt the carbs. All the bolts are under parts of the carbs. I really can't even see how to take off the intake manifold. Any tips on how to get these off?


  2. #2
    You should be able to get at them with an open-ended box wrench from the side. It is NOT a comfortable removal...don't get me wrong...but you should be able to get a short open faced box wrench in from the side under the carb to unbolt the (I believe 5) nuts. Of course you have to remove your flame arrestor as well if you have not done that?

    By the way, if you happened to buy that carb rebuild kit from SBT, watch out for that goofy shaped O-ring in their kits. All 6 of mine for 2 skis allowed an air leak out of the fuel pump and others on this site have had the same problem. I would be careful to keep your old parts that come out of the current carb ESPECIALLY: The spring, the goofy O-ring (in photo) and the flimsy rubber diaphragm at the very bottom of your fuel pump. Heck, No harm in keeping the little clear plastic disks either as long as they are not boogered up and bent. You never know when you will damage a part while installing it.

    When you are done, you will want to do a pop-off test for sure. Plenty of pics, vids and other tips on this site for that already. P.M. if you need any help.

  3. #3
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
    Madison, WI, USA
    Open end wrench and/or ratchet wrench should work. Once they are loose, they may spin off easy with your fingers. There's not a whole heck of a lot room but its least it is on a GP1200

  4. #4
    I forgot to include the "goofy shaped o-ring" example that I was talking about.

    Also, I bought a set of metric rachet type closed ended box wrenches that I can't wait to try on re-mounting my carbs. What a painName:  O-ring goofy shaped.JPG
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Size:  2.9 KBI know...I know..."what an amazing rendition" eh?

  5. #5
    thanks guys for the help, sounds like lots of busted knuckles. These things are not fun to work on with big hands. I thought this was going to be a couple hour project but sounds like it will be just that to get them off.

  6. #6
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Madison, WI, USA
    Depends on how easy the nuts come off. If you have to wrench the middle nuts the whole way off, it'll take a while. If they spin off with a finger tip then it goes faster

  7. #7
    sounds like I should soak them a few days before trying to take off... this does not sound like fun

  8. #8
    Tore down a 98XL last weekend and DAMN that sux taking those carbs off. I used every tool in my bag to try to get in there and ended up having to jury-rig something till I found the dang open faced wrench that the ski came with in the kit (didn't think to look in the Yamaha tool kit ha!). It was very thin and shorter and worked much better than my other gear. Glad that ski is getting parted out because I don't know how the heck a person gets proper torque specs on these things in cramped spaces like this.

  9. #9
    I used a short 12mm open/box end wrench that worked very well. I could only turn a few of the nuts a short distance before refitting the wrench. However, when broken loose they were able to be turned with my fingers. A hint I used though was to put a long, thin phillips on top of the stud at the final few threads so the nut would not fall into the hull. That would be a real pain... trying to get that back if it fell. If it did, you would need one of those long magnetic tools to retrieve.

  10. #10
    +1 on the long thin Phillips trick to retain the nuts. Since I was parting this ski out anyway, I thought long and hard about cutting the side out of the ski with a sawsall to access it quicker. Someone better buy this Dang hull ha!

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