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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    2 problems with Xl1200 limited high idle and wont shut down

    Got 2 problems with my 2000 1200XL limited. Itís a cold starting machine, so I read to pump the throttle 10 times and pull open the choke. I do this and its works and idles pretty good, when I donít and just pull the choke open I have to work the throttle and choke to get it running. So the first problem once I get it running and I hit the throttle, once, twice what ever the idle/RPM's goes crazy it will rev up to 7000rpms. I hit the throttle to see if it is stuck and nothing happens just idles high. Now the second problem when I hit the stop switch it does not turn off the machine, when i pull the lanyard it does not turn off the machine either. I have to turn the gas off and pull the choke open to get it to turn off. I am running this on my trailer with the water hooked up, I 'm not sure I want to take it to the water yet. Any advice is appreciated. I just bought this so I donít know the history other than everything works fine, so they said.


  2. #2
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    Aug 2005
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    Minden, Nevada, United States
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    Welcome to the forum, you have a lean runaway. There is an air leak somewere. Did you have it apart?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Pasadena, MD
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    yes, I was told they put a new motor in it about 3 years ago. Now that I think of it when they started it up they never hit the throttle they just let it idle. It seems when I hit the throttle it goes wide open. Any suggestions as to why the stop button or lanyard wont shut this thing off? I took it apart and it looks clean inside. Thanks.

  4. #4
    The stop button and lanyard will not shut the motor off when u have a lean runaway condition. Only way to stop is to choke the engine. As WaterWoody stated u have an airleak somewhere on your engine. Time to pressure test and see where the leak is. A good first place to look is at the motor rear crankshaft seal.

  5. #5
    clgpr's Avatar
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    May 2006
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    dallas,tx
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    32
    another way to kill it instead of choke pull is to pop throttle wide OPEN...

  6. #6

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    Jun 2012
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    Pasadena, MD
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    Thanks for the info guys. I did some research on the lean runaway and you hit the nail on the head. Sounds exactly like what mine is doing. I also pulled the plugs and number 1 and 3 are black and a little wet, number 2 is bone dry and light brown. Is the pressure test similar to the one you do on your cars cooling system? Sounds like I will have to take this to a Yamaha shop. Stupid question will the pressure test actually show the leak or will they be guessing and start nickel and diming me? Is it a dye you run through the system? Also, should I wait until its fixed to put it in the water? Will the stress/load of the water keep it from taking off? Again, thanks for answering my questions.

  7. #7
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
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    Madison, WI, USA
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    Pressure test is easier to do with the motor out of the ski. You block off the intake and the exhaust (many ways to do this) and pressurize the engine. Listen for leaks and spray soapy water in suspect areas. When you see bubbles, you found the leak. Then fix the leak and retest.
    You want the engine out so you can more easily locate the leak.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Pasadena, MD
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    Talked to a local Jet Ski mechanic. He said since it was the number two cyl that was running lean that it was most likely a carb and not an air leak problem but couldn’t rule out the air leak. He said something to the effect of on a lean runaway its usually the number 1 or 3 cyl. The cost of rebuilding all three carbs would be around $600, again with no grantee this is the issue but he should be able to tell once he see’s the ski. Just to update this ski has not been run this year and last year was in the water only once according to the owners. So the next question is how difficult is it to rebuild the carbs. I’ve rebuilt a Yamaha yz125 dirt bike engine years ago but never worked on a jet ski. I’m guessing the hardest part may be synching up the carbs and working in a limited space.

  9. #9

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    Aug 2006
    Location
    Indiana
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    My only experience with a lean runaway was on a 99 XLL and was #2 cyl. The cause was the initial idle setting was too high on the rebuilt engine. Scared the crap out of me, after pushing stop button, then pulling lanyard, then pulling battery cable, then finally the plug wires and it STILL ran. Shut off fuel switch and it stopped. Crazy thing. #2 plug white with powder and hot. #1 and 3 looked normal and were cool.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    LT1GMC thanks for the input. Samething happened to me and scared the crap out of me as well. My #2 plug looks to be light brown not totally white color and the others black and a little wet. So did you adjust the number 2 carb to fix the problem?

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