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  1. #1

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    Super Charger Option............................

    Curious if anyone has ever done this as a supercharger rebuild option? Rather than installing washers/clutches, has anyone ever permanently attached the supercharger gear to the shaft and controlled boost using a blow off valve? In the process of rebuilding the engine (thank you Sea Doo for your piss poor design for a supercharger) and supercharger and was just curious if this is a more permanent solution to my issue. Won't be using the ceramic washers again, but curious if this leaves more room for tuning (controlling boost).


  2. #2
    83.0 @ 8400 jhill19's Avatar
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    you can't do that. your bearings in the sc still need replaced. it's not a turbo where you can turn up the boost. boost on a s/c with these skis is determined by rpms.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubgolf81 View Post
    anyone ever permanently attached the supercharger gear to the shaft and controlled boost using a blow off valve?
    You'll snap the SC shaft in about 3-4 seconds......its been done. You'll end up tearing your motor apart again....and don't bother asking about BOV's, its a Beat-a-dead-horse subject around here...

    Proper way is to keep a SC in check is to start with a quality foundation, meaning all new parts (rebuild kit)...Set the slip good with the spring washers in better formation than OEM setup, not the usual ()()( style, maybe something like ((()( or ()))( or ()(((....Check it after the first few hours.......THEN watch your riding style, NO THROTTLE CHOPS, and let off when it comes unhooked....

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny View Post
    You'll snap the SC shaft in about 3-4 seconds......its been done. You'll end up tearing your motor apart again....and don't bother asking about BOV's, its a Beat-a-dead-horse subject around here...

    Proper way is to keep a SC in check is to start with a quality foundation, meaning all new parts (rebuild kit)...Set the slip good with the spring washers in better formation than OEM setup, not the usual ()()( style, maybe something like ((()( or ()))( or ()(((....Check it after the first few hours.......THEN watch your riding style, NO THROTTLE CHOPS, and let off when it comes unhooked....
    Well damn the man lol. Thanks for the info. When I finally get the motor back together I'll have to fine tune the charger like you suggested.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Danny View Post
    You'll snap the SC shaft in about 3-4 seconds......its been done. You'll end up tearing your motor apart again....and don't bother asking about BOV's, its a Beat-a-dead-horse subject around here...

    Proper way is to keep a SC in check is to start with a quality foundation, meaning all new parts (rebuild kit)...Set the slip good with the spring washers in better formation than OEM setup, not the usual ()()( style, maybe something like ((()( or ()))( or ()(((....Check it after the first few hours.......THEN watch your riding style, NO THROTTLE CHOPS, and let off when it comes unhooked....
    Let off when it comes unhooked??? What do you mean by that. I'm new to supercharged watercraft

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jbristo1 View Post
    Let off when it comes unhooked??? What do you mean by that. I'm new to supercharged watercraft
    Get out of the throttle when your ski leaves the water and starts to rev

  7. #7
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny View Post
    ...Set the slip good with the spring washers in better formation than OEM setup, not the usual ()()( style, maybe something like ((()( or ()))( or ()(((....Check it after the first few hours...........
    When setting up slip,washer combinations depend on a few things..The type of SCer,RPMs and boost..So to tell,say or not recommend them to use the usual OEM formation is mis-informative as a stock 215 HP Scer usually ends up with the OEM washer configuration which puts it at about 90 inch/lbs or a little over that...Every Scer is different when it comes to setting slip as one configuration may work on one Scer but not another..Yes there are different ways to utilize the spring washers to optain slip moment BUT the moment needed dictates what washer combination to use...Also you can sand the L collar down too if needed to loosed the slip up BUT thats another topic....I dont want to see somebody new or old get mislead by this...If your slip is not set right it can still damage your clutch assembly....

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoman View Post
    When setting up slip,washer combinations depend on a few things..The type of SCer,RPMs and boost..So to tell,say or not recommend them to use the usual OEM formation is mis-informative as a stock 215 HP Scer usually ends up with the OEM washer configuration which puts it at about 90 inch/lbs or a little over that...Every Scer is different when it comes to setting slip as one configuration may work on one Scer but not another..Yes there are different ways to utilize the spring washers to optain slip moment BUT the moment needed dictates what washer combination to use...Also you can sand the L collar down too if needed to loosed the slip up BUT thats another topic....I dont want to see somebody new or old get mislead by this...If your slip is not set right it can still damage your clutch assembly....
    The only Modification I planned at this time outside the normal rebuild with steel clutches was to increase the 90 inch/lbs to 100-110. I've read quite a bit about this holding the slip to a higher pressure longer into the life of the charger. basically yhe 90 doesn't drop to 60 after a month but the 100-110 drops to 80. Is my understanding correct?

  9. #9
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubgolf81 View Post
    basically yhe 90 doesn't drop to 60 after a month but the 100-110 drops to 80. Is my understanding correct?
    It depends on the condition of the rest of the clutch components IE: clutch washers,gear,thrust washers...IF they are used or have some signs of wear they may end up dropping faster than a clutch setup that is completely new....BUT you are right about pre-loading the clutch system...if your target slip is 90 inch/lbs then shoot for 100-110 inch lbs....

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoman View Post
    It depends on the condition of the rest of the clutch components IE: clutch washers,gear,thrust washers...IF they are used or have some signs of wear they may end up dropping faster than a clutch setup that is completely new....BUT you are right about pre-loading the clutch system...if your target slip is 90 inch/lbs then shoot for 100-110 inch lbs....
    When I finally reinstall the engine/charger, they will both have a full rebuild. So I am shooting for the 100-110 range. Thanks again for everyones help.

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