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  1. #1

    Kawi 1100 STX DI that has no spark

    Hi,

    Can someone tell me how to check the magneto?

    I was out riding my 171 hr ski and then it would not start after a couple minute break. Ski was running great with a strong battery. Towed to shore and tested to find no spark. The display shows "bat"tery but it cranks very strong and the battery is good. In the manual it says that if you have no spark, then check the following:
    • Faulty spark plugs (all 3 were firing perfect minutes before)- Rule out
    • Faulty plug wire insulation (all three look like new) - Rule out
    • Faulty igniter in EMM (probably the root cause of issue but I want to make sure before I spend the coin)
    • Faulty ignition coil (all three look like new)- Rule out
    • Faulty magneto- Need to determine how to test???
    • Low battery voltage- (strong 12.8 battery)- Rule out
    Thanks


  2. #2
    You need to disconnect the 10-pin connector from the EMM. That's the cable coming from the magneto, better known as stator.
    Then, with a fully charged battery, check the VAC output at the 10 pin connector you just disconnected while your helper is pressing the START button.
    Since, there are 10 pins, you need to measure 5 pairs or 5 readings.
    Basically you are measuring the AC output while cranking the engine.
    Report what you measure. We will go from there.

    In most cases, even with a bad stator, the engine starts and runs (but poorly).
    It is likely that you might have a bad EMM. And EMM doesn't just go bad by itself, usually it is operator induced. But that's another subject.

  3. #3
    likely overheat caused the failure of the ecm, have dfi technologies test it.

  4. #4
    MGM,

    I measured the VAC with a multimeter at the 10-pin connector while cranking and found the followings levels:
    G - Gy measured 6.6 VAC
    P - BK measured 6.5 VAC
    BL - Y measured 6.3 VAC
    W/Bk - W/G measured 9.9 VAC
    W - W/Br measured 9.7 VAC

    Can someone tell me if this sufficient voltage output while cranking to rule out the magneto?

    I also measured the Crank Postion Sensor to find 420 ohms which is within tolerance.
    CPS spec is 430 +/- 30 ohms

    What is the consensus guys (and gals)? Is it safe to say it is the EMM?

    It seems to me that if I did have a faulty plug, wire or coil, it would run on the other 2 cyclinders.

    Thanks

  5. #5

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    unplug one of the injectors and see if it runs..if it does, you need to have the emm reparied.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Baron62 View Post
    MGM,

    I measured the VAC with a multimeter at the 10-pin connector while cranking and found the followings levels:
    G - Gy measured 6.6 VAC
    P - BK measured 6.5 VAC
    BL - Y measured 6.3 VAC
    W/Bk - W/G measured 9.9 VAC
    W - W/Br measured 9.7 VAC

    Can someone tell me if this sufficient voltage output while cranking to rule out the magneto?
    There are 5 sets of coil winding in the stator and 3 of yours are shot, anything less than 9 VAC.
    You will need a new stator or get your old stator repaired (sometimes not possible).
    If you find water or corrosion issue in the stator area, you need to get that taken care of as well so that your new/repaired stator doesn't fail again.


    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    unplug one of the injectors and see if it runs..if it does, you need to have the emm reparied.
    How is your suggestion related to what OP is reporting?
    The voltages are measured directly from the stator even before going to EMM. ?

  8. #8
    Thanks MGM. I'm thinking you are correct. I'll measure the stator resistances as well to validate. I did send the EMM to DFI and so far they have found no issues with the computer. I should have held off on sending the EMM to be checked. Any suggestions on where online to purchase the stator? I see they are $300 at cycle parts nation.

  9. #9
    Here is what I would do before buying a new stator.

    > Remove the stator and confirm it is damaged/defective.
    > If water/corrosion is found, find the cause and counter-measure.
    > If the stator appears to be repairable, meaning not trashed, take it to a local starter/alternator repair shop and see if then can fix for less than $300.

    After stator is fixed, there is one more thing you should do before installing. Clean out the stator cover inside where the cooling water passes through. I will explain you more in detail later why and how - another subject.
    Last edited by meangreenman; 06-28-2012 at 03:41 PM.

  10. #10
    MGM,

    I measured the the resistance with a multimeter at the 10-pin connector and found the following:
    G - Gy measured 0.4 ohms - manual calls for 0.38 +/- 0.3 ohms
    P - BK measured 0.4 ohms - manual calls for 0.38 +/- 0.3 ohms
    BL - Y measured 0.4 ohms - manual calls for 0.38 +/- 0.3 ohms
    W/Bk - W/G measured 0.5 ohms - manual calls for 0.531 +/- 0.4 ohms
    W - W/Br measured 0.5 ohms - manual calls for 0.531 +/- 0.4 ohms

    So the stator winding resistance appears to be right on the money. Could there be a something other than the stator causing the issue?

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